lowering line in crotches vs blocks?

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luvthetrobag

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Ive heard alot of guys say they use blocks to save ropes. Is it really necessary to do this? obviously it extends the life of the rope but we use a blocks only about 10% of the time. Usually when there isn't a crotch available in the spot we need one or if were lowering something off its self. Our ropes last on average 12 to 18 months and have proved strong. My boss as anal about taken care of equipment as he is has never expressed much concern over using crotches. Whats everybody's opinion, just curious.
 
sap

I use blocks to aviod sap caking my ropes, however, most time i use crotches oh natural.
 
I think the question is how often do you use these ropes during the course of the 12-18 months? I have kept track in the past of how many pieces i lowered on a rope on a given day to get some idea of rope durability. The average for me is 40+ lowerings a day, 5-6 days a week. And this is all big stuff on takedowns. That's alot of friction over a crotch.

Probably over 90% of my roping is done with blocks. If i need to use a natural crotch, i use a different rope than the ones i run through my blocks. I have three main lowering lines that i rotate through depending on length, type of tree, etc. (Or sometimes all three in the same tree.:rock: ) My ropes are also used to pull over stems and trees and are used in mud, snow, and rain. I religiously replace all three once a year. I guess that comes to about 4 months per rope.

Fortunately my groundies are excellent, but it is easy to burn a rope on a natural crotch. Plus blocks can give you several better lifting options or lowering options with a grcs.
 
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I think the question is how often do you use these ropes during the course of the 12-18 months? I have kept track in the past of how many pieces i lowered on a rope on a given day to get some idea of rope durability. The average for me is 40+ lowerings a day, 5-6 days a week. And this is all big stuff on takedowns. That's alot of friction over a crotch.

Probably over 90% of my roping is done with blocks. If i need to use a natural crotch, i use a different rope than the ones i run through my blocks. I have three main lowering lines that i rotate through depending on length, type of tree, etc. (Or sometimes all three in the same tree.:rock: ) My ropes are also used to pull over stems and trees and are used in mud, snow, and rain. I religiously replace all three once a year. I guess that comes to about 4 months per rope.

Fortunately my groundies are excellent, but it is easy to burn a rope on a natural crotch. Plus blocks can give you several better lifting options or lowering options with a grcs.
5 days a week lots of big takedowns in pa, good groundmen. I would consider them used heavily. We lower alot of stuff other guys might drop. you know, on those "its gonna be close cuts".
 
I prefer blocks too... Mostly cause they are fast and efficient.... Saving a few seconds on retrieval adds up, and there is a more consitent amount of friction on the system to judge the number of wraps needed... Less wear and tear on the ropes is more of a fringe benefit... It is important to have the right kind of block and sling for the job, making it easy to instal and retrieve..
I like to have 3 different block and 3 different slings, as well as a shackle on a short sling for small stuf and redirects..
 
My 200 foot, 9/16”, Yale double braid, is 4 or 5 years old, with plenty of life left. It has only ever been run over smooth steel. It is not my primary line and doesn’t see regular use. For crotch lowering and GP I use Yale ½” XTP, and I get a year sometimes a little more out of them.

The thing about the blocks and dblbrd is that its so much stronger and more versatile, in that you can more effectively pretension or pull up. As for rope longevity, well ropes are cheap enough that you would lose money via labor costs by setting up a blocked system every time.

Murph, I thought you were in Florida?
 
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When a limb gets snagged on the way down, and you have a block, the ground man can just pull up on it. With a natural crotch, there's often too much friction. If you're doing a cut where you want to raise the limb as you cut, to clear a roof or something, it works a lot better with a block.
Also, blocks make it easier to drop light pieces fast, and get the end of the rope back to the climber.

For light trims, I'd likely natural crotch rig, for bigger removals, I hang a block.

What it comes down to is the block makes it easier for the ground crew.

On a trim you have to retrieve the block, while with removals, you're there cutting it down.
 
If your using a block your taking to smaller peices and taking too long.IMO

A block is required on 0.01% of tree work.
 
I never used one for years BUT I didnt do difficult and large section that weighed over 1000 lbs either. The crotches work great for alot of 300 lb limbs and other quick stuff. I used to use them alot when dealing with that witches broom affect from trees that had been topped at one point. Nothing like lower a limb ever 2-4 minutes. Makes for an easy: Tie, cut, lower and untie.

I did wear my ropes a good amount quicker than I did with a pulley though.
 
I use a block or pulley 90% on the time on a double braided rope. The other 10% makes up the quickies and when having new ground guys. Easier for me to adjust friction for them then trying to yell and explain to the how many wraps for each piece.
 
I use a block or pulley 90% on the time on a double braided rope. The other 10% makes up the quickies and when having new ground guys. Easier for me to adjust friction for them then trying to yell and explain to the how many wraps for each piece.

did a storm damage this morning,,, taco bell had to set a line with the bucket truck,,,i'm like,, just throw a line over a crotch,, i'll put a running bowline on the limb with a pole saw,, hook it to the front of the truck!!!! i went to the front of the truck ,, to put the rope winch on.....dummy put a figure 8 up inthe tree, and came down.... told me to cut... big a$$ oak limb....... needless to say,,, my esteemed partner took a little ride... BY THE WAY ???? IS IT ME<<< BUT WHO IN THEIR RIGHT MIND,,, SETS A FIGURE EIGHT IN A TREE HIGH<<< THAN COMES DOWN TO WORK THE LINE FROM THE GROUND?????
 
rope wear on sharp bends

I should qualify my earlier statment; I use a 3/4" cmi block and sling whenever Im rigging with a heavy line like 5/8" for bigger peices. Most smaller lighter peices go down with out pullies unless im in a sap filled tree.

Do you folks have an opinion or experience with using devices like a port a wraps. I suspected that it might be harder on bull line due to sharp turns then a couple wraps on a tree? I have used the gcrs for a day and was impressed, but have not had the cash to justify it [when wraping the tree works well for most situations.] Any opinions on what the cost in rope replacement is compared to buying a gcrs; Where is the trade off?
 
Your back with Taco bell? Your days must be numbered then too. Why else put an eight up there? So once the mess is on the ground you can clean it up while he goes to retrieve it. You know them games.


And as far as the rope pulling out with blocks, I request the groundie who unties the pieces to put a knot in the end of the rope. I explain very carefully when they send me the rope up without a knot. I make it very clear that I will not be happy what so ever if I have to re-climb the tree to just put the rope back. Really sucks with mulitple points.
 
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