maple tree bark

[cedarswamper]

I'm new to tree health . I have a young 12' maple tree. I have noticed the bark seems to be splitting and curling in towards the tree. This is happening on the trunk and on the smaller branches all ove the tree some spots are a few feet and some are only inches. What causes this? How can I fix this? I hate to lose the tree. Thanks

 

[S Mc]

Welcome to the site, Cedarswamper.

Could you post pictures of this tree? Without them we would be guessing at best. In the photos, please include a full tree shot, a close up of the base showing how it was planted and close ups of the injuries or damaged tissue.

Any background history you could provide would also be helpful such as chemical use around this tree. Also include orientation (north/south/east/west) information.

The rupturing bark can be anything from "common for the species" to sunscald, herbicide damage, insect damage due to oviposting, and on. Without pictures there is no real way to tell for sure.

Sylvia

 

[cedarswamper]

maple tree bark with pics

here are the best pics I could get

 

[cedarswamper]

trying again

 

[cedarswamper]

close up of the trunk and a branch

 

[Urban Forester]

The lectin and moss indicate hi humidity levels around the tree, both are symbiotic and won't hurt the tree. Is there by chance an irrigation system running in the area that is hitting the trunk, if so it would be best to re-direct it. The cracking appears to be from sunscald and/or frost cracking. If there is healing occuring inside the splits then while it will appear unsightly there is no long term harm. HOWEVER, water could continue to get inside these cracks, freeze and continue the process. A trunk wrap for the winter months would help. Just make sure to remove it in the spring to avoid holding moisture against the trunk. In one of the pics it appears there is a small lighter circle on the trunk bisected by the crack, it may be a symptom of canker disease, this may explain the cracking in the smaller branches. Google "canker" see if it matches whats occuring. Has this tree leafed out well, or has there been decline in size, production an/or color? The wet conditions may also be causing root decline. Do you know the cultivar of this maple, i.e. Red, Silver, etc.

 

[S Mc]

Cedar, I didn't make my question very clear; however, when I asked about orientation I was meaning is the cracking on the south side of the tree?

I agree with UF in that this strongly resembles sunscald which is caused by the sudden temperature changes in the winter, particularly with reflected sunshine on snow and then a sudden temp drop at night. However, another cause of this type of cracking can be the application of glyphosate around the trunk to control weeds. This can have a residual and build up effect from years past, such as even from the nursery.

You can get an idea of how old this injury is by looking under the fractured bark to see if there is a rolling appearance to the edges of the wound. This is woundwood or callus growth which forms as the tree seals off injury.

It is not a bad idea to protect thin-barked trees during the winter from sunscald and/or deer rubbing. It is not recommended to wrap the trunk with a contact paper type material but something that stands off from the trunk such as a plastic tube which would allow air circulation. (White not black).

I will mention that it appears to have mechanical damage at the base. It is recommended that you get a mulch ring going around the trunk to at least protect it from mechanical damage due to lawnmower or weedeaters. Barring continued injury, this young tree can overcome its current problems and provide you with years of enjoyment.

Sylvia

 

[cedarswamper]

We have only lived here one year ,but the major cracking seems to have worsened in the last couple months.It is on the southern side of the tree. And most of the trees here have homeowner (previous)inflicted damage. For some reason he nailed rearview mirrors into the trees some time ago and the trees have healed? grown? around the bases of the objects. I removed (most)of them without cutting into the trees. I have no idea why he did this. I don't use chemicals because of the high water table and inexperience. Would mulching hold even more moisture at the base then is already there? I don't want to drown the tree. Thanks

 

[S Mc]

Good for you for not using chemicals. They are vastly overrated and overused IMHO.

You are probably just seeing the ramifications of the damage that occurred awhile ago as the bark dies and splits apart as the tree grows. The dead tissue won't expand with the tree's growth, instead will fracture and reveal the extent of the original injury. Athough generally a tree will have toughened up by this time to not need a trunk protector, you may want to be better safe than sorry.

It is amazing what some people will do to trees thinking that nothing can harm them. I can't image what the rearview mirrors were for!

The premise behind mulching trees aside from the obvious benefit of giving them a physical barrier between lawn maintenance practices and vulnerable trunks, is to feed the soil food web below ground in as natural a manner as possible. As the slowly decomposing organic matter breaks down, a multitude of organisms go to work improving soil structure, aeration, and even making some nutrients more available to the tree.

Apply only 2 to 4" of organic matter in a circle starting away from the trunk in a thin layer, building up a bit as you get further away from the tree. This organic layer actually does help stabilize moisture retention and evaporation and temperature gain and loss. Turf grass can actually inhibit drainage more than organic matter.

When you start irrigating next spring pay attention, as UF mentioned, and try to avoid blasting the trunk of this (or any) tree. If you are in a high water table, you may not even need to be irrigating.

Sylvia

 

[treeseer]

great advice so far. recommend tracing (trimming) dead bark from edges of crack to lessen pest habitat, IF you do not cut into live (green moist, bright-colored) tissue.

rearview mirrors for deer shining? crazy.

 

[buzz sawyer]

Here are a couple more close ups of the lower and upper trunk from the original photo. Definite damage at the base but it should recover with the right care. Now is not the time but at some point, would pruning of the stem on the right be recommended - at the red line? Looks like some included bark developing. Correct me if I'm wrong -trying to learn a little too.

I thought the same thing on the mirrors - to keep bucks from rubbing.

 

[Urban Forester]

That does appear to be co-dominant and it may be starting to be included, hard to tell from the distance the photo was taken. In any case it IS redundant, so removal might be a good idea. I really think you could do it now, unless you've had WILDY fluxuating temps recently. Phloem pressure is way up this time of year so you shouldn't get frozen xylem hanging off the cut. We do alot of dormant season pruning here right through the winter, have to be careful w/some species, but not maple.

 

[S Mc]

Hey Buzz, this tree appears to have prominent branch bark ridges and I am thinking this might also be one on the limb you are questioning. As UF said, hard to say for sure from the angle, but I wouldn't be too concerned with it unless a closer inspection shows differently.

The limb is arguing for supremacy, but IMHO would create too large of a whole in the canopy to remove entirely. Again, this is stated without being able to walk all around the tree. It's not perfect, but not something I would consider a large defect .

Ok, the mirrors on the tree to deflect deer is a new one for me. The purpose was to keep bucks from rubbing, which damages the tree...and the previous homeowner didn't think attaching mirrors to the tree a problem? Well, I'm adding that one to the anecdote compendium.

Sylvia

 

[buzz sawyer]

Hey Buzz, this tree appears to have prominent branch bark ridges and I am thinking this might also be one on the limb you are questioning. As UF said, hard to say for sure from the angle, but I wouldn't be too concerned with it unless a closer inspection shows differently.

The limb is arguing for supremacy, but IMHO would create too large of a whole in the canopy to remove entirely. Again, this is stated without being able to walk all around the tree. It's not perfect, but not something I would consider a large defect .

Ok, the mirrors on the tree to deflect deer is a new one for me. The purpose was to keep bucks from rubbing, which damages the tree...and the previous homeowner didn't think attaching mirrors to the tree a problem? Well, I'm adding that one to the anecdote compendium.

Sylvia

Thanks - as always, your input is much appreciated. As for the mirrors and the deer, it was just a guess - I may reflect on it and consider another purpose.