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I built and ported 8-10 Husqvarna 394`s seems like 10 -12 years ago for some woodyard workers that were bucking hardwood logs down into firewood lengths in commercial firewood yards. I had to repair each and every chainbrake as it was mandated that they had to be present and work correctly in these yards. The assembly of parts to connect the flag/handle took the most patience, the big compression spring took the most brute force. Having the clutch cover solid on the bolts clamped in the bench vice made the assembly much easier and therefore quicker for me.
 
I built and ported 8-10 Husqvarna 394`s seems like 10 -12 years ago for some woodyard workers that were bucking hardwood logs down into firewood lengths in commercial firewood yards. I had to repair each and every chainbrake as it was mandated that they had to be present and work correctly in these yards. The assembly of parts to connect the flag/handle took the most patience, the big compression spring took the most brute force. Having the clutch cover solid on the bolts clamped in the bench vice made the assembly much easier and therefore quicker for me.
It seems rather beneficial to have the chain brake in proper operation. I'll try the 4in bolt trick. I just wish Husky gave better insight, I can see people putting this in incorrectly.
 
It seems rather beneficial to have the chain brake in proper operation. I'll try the 4in bolt trick. I just wish Husky gave better insight, I can see people putting this in incorrectly.
The bolts can be shorter as long as they can be securely clamped in the vice jaws and stick up say 1.5 inches or so. I used what I had in the tool box drawer and placed a washer and nut just finger tight to retain the clutch cover,just extra insurance the cover did not get launched if I bumped it the wrong way. I did not even have the IPL for the parts, that was my usual way for working on most any machine in those times, I was very late getting on the internet, we just had to be careful when taking components apart and remember where all parts fit and really how they worked in conjunction with the other connected parts.
 
I am not a fan of watching YouTuber video`s but I just now went and watched Donny Walkers video that JD posted, Donny is the real deal mechanic,not a content You Tuber and he has helped me a few times.He did not take the inner handle spring parts apart unfortunately but all the rest of his instructions are very helpful and spot on, no unnecessary time filler just instructions. The only thing I do not like much is clamping the clutch cover itself in the vice as the vice jaws tear up the soft magnesium of the bar pad and wreck the paint when the cover moves, otherwise he knows his stuff,good guy also.
 
I am not a fan of watching YouTuber video`s but I just now went and watched Donny Walkers video that JD posted, Donny is the real deal mechanic,not a content You Tuber and he has helped me a few times.He did not take the inner handle spring parts apart unfortunately but all the rest of his instructions are very helpful and spot on, no unnecessary time filler just instructions. The only thing I do not like much is clamping the clutch cover itself in the vice as the vice jaws tear up the soft magnesium of the bar pad and wreck the paint when the cover moves, otherwise he knows his stuff,good guy also.
Finally figured it out. One of those "just get mad enough to figure it out on my own" moments. I have to give thanks to RedneckChainsawRepair also. I really really like the bolt and vice trick! I'm going to recommend that from now on thank you PG. Here is what I learned, and only one smashed finger later.. don't worry I didn't draw blood.
 

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Finally figured it out. One of those "just get mad enough to figure it out on my own" moments. I have to give thanks to RedneckChainsawRepair also. I really really like the bolt and vice trick! I'm going to recommend that from now on thank you PG. Here is what I learned, and only one smashed finger later.. don't worry I didn't draw blood.
That looks correct but its been too long since I last worked on one to be clear in my mind. I cannot explain things like that spring up inside the handle , how to orientate it and just where it contacts other parts with just words and all the pics I had of rebuilding the Husqvarna 394`s have all been lost other than ones I posted on sites like this one, wouldn`t know where to find them now. Hope all works out good for the saw.
 
Finally figured it out. One of those "just get mad enough to figure it out on my own" moments. I have to give thanks to RedneckChainsawRepair also. I really really like the bolt and vice trick! I'm going to recommend that from now on thank you PG. Here is what I learned, and only one smashed finger later.. don't worry I didn't draw blood.

That looks correct but its been too long since I last worked on one to be clear in my mind. I cannot explain things like that spring up inside the handle , how to orientate it and just where it contacts other parts with just words and all the pics I had of rebuilding the Husqvarna 394`s have all been lost other than ones I posted on sites like this one, wouldn`t know where to find them now. Hope all works out good for the saw.
If I had to remember everything I've fixed and the correct orientation, I would be hugging and rocking myself in an extra long sleeved jacket in a closet somewhere. 🤣 Thanks for the tidbits of information though! I wish my donkey internet would let me upload a short video, but not today.
 
If I had to remember everything I've fixed and the correct orientation, I would be hugging and rocking myself in an extra long sleeved jacket in a closet somewhere. 🤣 Thanks for the tidbits of information though! I wish my donkey internet would let me upload a short video, but not today.
After 73 years and over 60 years working on machines it is becoming more difficult for me to remember all the details , the overall procedure is still quite clear but the little details are not as clear. You are welcome to the tidbits, hope the saw works for you now. Now off to torque some headbolts to 200 ft lbs.
 
After 73 years and over 60 years working on machines it is becoming more difficult for me to remember all the details , the overall procedure is still quite clear but the little details are not as clear. You are welcome to the tidbits, hope the saw works for you now. Now off to torque some headbolts to 200 ft lbs.
If your still pulling 200 ft lbs. I'd say your a fortunate man! Might I ask what kind of engine? I just removed stud bolts (head and exhaust) from a '49 Moline tractor.
 
If your still pulling 200 ft lbs. I'd say your a fortunate man! Might I ask what kind of engine? I just removed stud bolts (head and exhaust) from a '49 Moline tractor.

Screamin Jimmy, 671 Detroit,destined to be a sawmill powerplant, next in lineup Cummins 400 big cam, love the smell of diesel in the morning.
 
Greetings all from Northern Wisconsin. Just a younger lady here that inherited all of my late father's beloved well used and forgotten chainsaws. Some still ran, but I have overhauled restored to running condition his 50 Rancher and 268XP. I was 5 years old and vividly remember playing on the floor at the hardware store when he purchased the Rancher. I am also a mechanic by trade, so technical jargon is welcome here.
I reset new axe handles for fun and enjoy refreshing axe heads and dressing up the whole bit with wood burning and linseed oil. I was raised by my father and he taught me all he knew as a shade tree mechanic/street racer of the late 50's.

I am having trouble rebuilding the chain brake handle on my 268XP. One of the dogs was broken on the knee link and the forked spring was also in two pieces. I purchased replacement parts, but am baffled how the coil spring is installed. Any help on this would be appreciated.
Northern Wisconsin is a big area, but my wife and I were co-owners of a hardware store in Wabeno, Wisconsin during the 80s. We also were Husqvarna, Jonsered, and Sachs Dolmar dealers. Your post made me wonder if your father possibly bought his Rancher at our store.
 
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