Maul Handle

[kevlar]

That's awesome,Why didn't I think of it?When I break a handle I put the maul in the fire and burn out the wood then replace the handle.I know some of you are going to say I ruined the temper but I'm only hitting wood right? oh and I never strike it with a sledge!

 

[Haywire Haywood]

I like fiberglass. The replacement fiberglass handles you buy have a package of 2 part epoxy that comes with them. You put the head on the handle, tap it on so it seals around the bottom and pour in the epoxy. I used a sliver of wood to work it in and let it set for 24 hours.

Ian

 

[chowdozer]

I have a "True temper" maul,made by the Ames company of Ames Iowa,one of the oldest makers of axes,shovels ,sledge hammers etc in the U S of A.It is forged steel,hardened head.

It states ,on a warning,on the handle,and I quote"Striking a hard material with a hardened striking tool could result in bodily injury" end quote.

Now,I'm not arguing this fact and the fact is what anybody does with their tools or how they use them is none of my business.This info was and is just a heads up to a question that was raised.

I'll agree with you Al. For 30 years I have hit wedges with a maul or a sledge. This maul is 12-13 years old now and has never been hit with a sledge or shows no sign of mushrooming. If you look closely, there are not even any marks on the contact surface. I don't even know what brand it is. I know it wasn't cheap as I don't buy cheap tools.

Here's one of the wedges I began grinding the mushroom off and lost interest a couple years ago. A good "extra time" project but the wedge was getting too short for my tastes anyway.

Here is why you wear eye protection when splitting.

When I look at my maul, I can see it is forged. I can see the forging line. Look at your own maul for a forging line. Wedges are cast, you can see the granular structure in the picture of the broken wedge. My guess is that sledges will also be forged. I'm not going to hit a forged maul head with a forged sledge head. Bad things happen. I'm not too lazy to use the correct tool. Use a maul correctly and it will last a lifetime.

 

[Al Smith]

Wedges aren't really cast,they are forged as a general rule of carbon steel.The cutting edge is hardened but the striking head is left soft,somewhat like a cold chisel.Cast I'm afraid would not withstand the abuse of a sledge hammer.

I can see by the handle on that maul that your aim is about like mine,you miss some times. Ha,that's one reason I don't swing a razor sharp broad axe like some of the ones involved in timber sports.I think I would wack my toes off.

 

[chowdozer]

Wedges aren't really cast,they are forged as a general rule of carbon steel.The cutting edge is hardened but the striking head is left soft,somewhat like a cold chisel.Cast I'm afraid would not withstand the abuse of a sledge hammer.

I can see by the handle on that maul that your aim is about like mine,you miss some times. Ha,that's one reason I don't swing a razor sharp broad axe like some of the ones involved in timber sports.I think I would wack my toes off.

Al, I just went by what the wedge looked like after part of it became a projectile. It sure looks cast, very granular. That maul handle is about 4 years old now. The garfs are from pounding the wedge too far in and hitting the round with the handle.

 

[blis]

Al, I just went by what the wedge looked like after part of it became a projectile. It sure looks cast, very granular. That maul handle is about 4 years old now. The garfs are from pounding the wedge too far in and hitting the round with the handle.

you know, you should always replace handle if you hit something with the throat of handle.... but heck, even i dont bother to do it with axes...

 

[Al Smith]

Al, I just went by what the wedge looked like after part of it became a projectile. It sure looks cast, very granular. That maul handle is about 4 years old now. The garfs are from pounding the wedge too far in and hitting the round with the handle.

Repeated blows from a sledge hammer will cause the steel to fatigue ,often giving it a granular appearance.It somehow alters the structure of the metal.

Which brings up a safety issue.Periodically before the mushrooming gets out of hand,it should be ground off or faced.A piece of shrapnel buried in your shin does not make a happy wood splitter,take it from one who knows.

 

[Richard Reames]

I found that the tree will stay alive for quite some time growing a very tight fit. Shrinkage after harvesting can be overcome by wedges or soaking if you really going to put it work. Surely a grow tool belongs in a museum or an art gallery and not whacked around like any common tool. One cool aspect of this is when practiced while coppicing, fast growing sprouts from a recently felled tree can be made into tool handles every 1 to 3 years depending on the species. I suppose a polarded tree could produce a large quick crop also. lots more info on this in my book Arborsculpture- Solutions for a Small Planet.
Unabashed self promoter- Richard Reames
http://www.arborsmith.com

 

[logbutcher]

Thank You !

I found that the tree will stay alive for quite some time growing a very tight fit. Shrinkage after harvesting can be overcome by wedges or soaking if you really going to put it work. Surely a grow tool belongs in a museum or an art gallery and not whacked around like any common tool. One cool aspect of this is when practiced while coppicing, fast growing sprouts from a recently felled tree can be made into tool handles every 1 to 3 years depending on the species. I suppose a polarded tree could produce a large quick crop also. lots more info on this in my book Arborsculpture- Solutions for a Small Planet.
Unabashed self promoter- Richard Reames
http://www.arborsmith.com

Fascinating, and novel Richard. Thanks for one super concept.