McColloch 795L - Looking for info

[Toolslinger]

Hey the pic is up back on page 1... Nice... Thanks to the mods for the approval...

Next question... Chain related... In looking at the chain to make sure I have the right file to sharpen it, it struck me that it just looked kinda small for a big saw... So I looked at the stamp on it. Oregon chain, and 25... So that's 1/4" chain right and the Oregon site says its .050 gauge. Isn't that a bit small for something this size? I'm still trying to wrap my head around the various chain specs... And yes, I know the pitch has to match the drive sprocket and possibly the nose assuming it has a sproket, and the gauge has to match the bar. Bar is also not a 36"... 32" is more like it though, should that be stated from the tip to spike, or tip to casting? Doesn't matter, 32" or so is fine for me... (never had/used spikes on any of our other saws, so those numbers were always tip to casting)

 

[Mr. Bow Saw]

Hey the pic is up back on page 1... Nice... Thanks to the mods for the approval...

Next question... Chain related... In looking at the chain to make sure I have the right file to sharpen it, it struck me that it just looked kinda small for a big saw... So I looked at the stamp on it. Oregon chain, and 25... So that's 1/4" chain right and the Oregon site says its .050 gauge. Isn't that a bit small for something this size? I'm still trying to wrap my head around the various chain specs... And yes, I know the pitch has to match the drive sprocket and possibly the nose assuming it has a sproket, and the gauge has to match the bar. Bar is also not a 36"... 32" is more like it though, should that be stated from the tip to spike, or tip to casting? Doesn't matter, 32" or so is fine for me... (never had/used spikes on any of our other saws, so those numbers were always tip to casting)

It will be 3/8 or 404 chain on your saw, not 1/4.

 

[nmurph]

OP, nice saw.

What's the difference bw the 90 and 95 series? I have a very nice 890 that is creeping toward the top of the "to-do" list.

 

[Chris-PA]

Plus chainsaws aren't really my hobby

See, we're all laughing at you now, because we know that just changed! You bought a cool old Mac and you're posting on AS - you're a chainsaw addict now.

 

[Toolslinger]

It will be 3/8 or 404 chain on your saw, not 1/4.

Right... The 25 I noted is on the depth gauge... Drive tooth has 52 on it.

So far I have yet to find 52 in any of the charts I have found, but I did find a reference to 58 and 59 (with a whole alphabet following) being the replacement for some 52 chain (that's all Oregon info, I can only stand one manufacturer's alphabet soup at once)

In other news, I found a chip out of the bar... Not quite as long as a drive link, but not good to be sure... Don't know how I missed that earlier.

At this point, I should probably take it to someone that knows what the heck they're looking at... The closest is a Stihl dealer I've spend a good amount of money (for a homeowner at any rate) with over the last couple years... The problem there is every time I walk in the door its like I'm wasting his time... Seems he really only wants to deal with guys making their living with the gear... I need to find a shop where they'll actually talk to you, instead of at you... Probably have to take it out to PA some place where the people aren't *****...

 

[Toolslinger]

See, we're all laughing at you now, because we know that just changed! You bought a cool old Mac and you're posting on AS - you're a chainsaw addict now.

Oh, it could go that way... My safety net is that I'm heavily addicted to other machinery, and the money goes there mostly. It wouldn't be the first time I was wrong though...

 

[watsonr]

52 is .404 chain in .063 gauge and made by Oregon. Oregon 59 is the replacement for 52.

 

[Chris-PA]

Some of the nice things about saws are that they're not big and heavy, you don't have to crawl under them or use jacks and lifts, and you can play around without really investing much. You can work on neat equipment on your bench without such a large effort, which makes it enjoyable. In my case I have to use the saws for my firewood anyway, so I get the added bonus of having tools that work when I need them to and more knowledge of how to use them and keep them working.

That is a very nice saw BTW.

 

[heimannm]

OP, nice saw.

What's the difference bw the 90 and 95 series? I have a very nice 890 that is creeping toward the top of the "to-do" list.

The 790/890 were the earlier models without a compression release (De Stoking Port), 795/895 are the later version of the same saw with the compression release. Of course with McCulloch, there were other changes along the way. Some 795L saws had the SDC carburetor set up like the Super 797. Roland has a nice 795L with the primer equipped flat back. Both of my 795's are primer flat backs, but my 895 is a choke flat back.

Mark

 

[nmurph]

Thanks Mark.

 

[Toolslinger]

52 is .404 chain in .063 gauge and made by Oregon. Oregon 59 is the replacement for 52.

Thanks!

So, that means I could run any .404 - .063 chain right assuming it has the right number of links?

Funny... Running saws for a long time and I don't think I've ever actually bought a loop apart from my Poulan, which I've always just gotten what I had (consumer saw, so I can just get the replacements at Home Desperate), so I never had to learn this... I suspect my father probably just always took the dead loops to the shop and they matched it up on the other saws...

 

[Toolslinger]

Ok... Photo time again...

I pulled the bar off, because all morning I've been thinking about that chunk that is missing. (slow day at the shop) So, this looks pretty terminal to me. I don't think I'd be comfortable running this, but I'm happy to hear thoughts.

So, assuming I need to replace this, and hang it on the wall for decoration, I started looking at bars...
From what I read on the McCulloch thread about bars, and side plates, it looks like I've got a later model bar, and matching plates...

Which means mostly I need to stick with that or start changing more than the bar, and chain... Last owners had both of the side plates on the inside of the bar... Nice to see people at least try not to screw up their gear...

Since I'm this far now, I should probably figure out how to get the clutch off, and check the bearing in there... There is what I'd consider to be a little too much play on the drum, but I could be wrong...

It probably never ends...

-Tim

 

[Eccentric]

Ok... Photo time again...

I pulled the bar off, because all morning I've been thinking about that chunk that is missing. (slow day at the shop) So, this looks pretty terminal to me. I don't think I'd be comfortable running this, but I'm happy to hear thoughts.



So, assuming I need to replace this, and hang it on the wall for decoration, I started looking at bars...
From what I read on the McCulloch thread about bars, and side plates, it looks like I've got a later model bar, and matching plates...


Which means mostly I need to stick with that or start changing more than the bar, and chain... Last owners had both of the side plates on the inside of the bar... Nice to see people at least try not to screw up their gear...

Since I'm this far now, I should probably figure out how to get the clutch off, and check the bearing in there... There is what I'd consider to be a little too much play on the drum, but I could be wrong...

It probably never ends...

-Tim

You do indeed have the later style bar and bar plates Tim. I'd look into having that bar fixed. It's in otherwise VERY nice shape. Not sure there's anybody near you that does that sort of thing anymore. There's a business in Oregon that handles this kind of repair. Your biggest expense would be shipping it to them and back again.

Chain Bar Repairing

 

[Toolslinger]

I would never have guessed anyone would repair a bar... I'll have to send them a photo with a question. You're right, I doubt anyone local does that kind of work, I doubt there would be enough call for it, but I'll have to look regardless.

 

[blackoak]

Most left the shops with the standard bar length of 30", a 42" works really well and 48" does just fine.

Gratuitous yellow paint pics.

There is a much rarer version of the 103cc models, a gear-drive, the 895CL, chromed bore, left hand start. I touched a new one, should have bought it, but spent a hundred bucks less on a 125.

I would bet the farm that if that saw could talk,,, it could tell some amazing stories. Was this saw one of yours from the good old days??? I like it!!

 

[RandyMac]

No not one of mine, it is local though. The only saw I have, that I fell timber with is the Super 250.

 

[ChrisBiker]

795l

I have one, no photos post in a couple days. Its in alright shape, has sdc, but does not run right.

 

[Toolslinger]

Sadly, mine is sick as well now. The PO managed to screw up the plug threads, so I have to get it bored, and inserted... How he got that plug to stay put for long enough that it started and ran perfectly a few times I can't imagine.

 

[tomdcoker]

I would never have guessed anyone would repair a bar... I'll have to send them a photo with a question. You're right, I doubt anyone local does that kind of work, I doubt there would be enough call for it, but I'll have to look regardless.

Get a piece of brass that will fit the slot in the bar amd fill the chip in with weld. Then dress the weld with a file or a grinder. Tom

 

[Toolslinger]

Well there ended up being more wrong with the bar than just that chip. The repair price was actually very good from the company listed above for just that chip, but the shipping both ways wasn't pleasant. When I cleaned it up to ship, I started seeing lots of little cracks, so I ended up getting a new bar for it. 'Course now that gives me the old one as a "spare" and I might try the weld and file method since it wouldn't do anything other than hang on the wall otherwise... I have it in the back of my mind to slab out a walnut stump, so perhaps this would be the right bar to abuse like that...