McCulloch 10-10 - back to working condition?

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petemac

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First off, im not a tree pro at all but I'll give you guys the story, then ask for help :)

My father bought his mac 10-10 brand new in 197x and used it faithfully along with a few other saws to cut wood for the house. Now its been a few years since when he bought the saw, and its sad to say its in a lot better shape then he is. Hes far too sick to run a saw so I have taken over cutting but he always tells me to bring the mcculloch. He is the kind of guy who takes care of his stuff and i know it means a lot to him to have me out there cutting with his saw. For a few years that worked fine...

Now, i can never get the saw started. I can start it in about half an hour with wd-40 and a lot of frustration sometimes. When it does start it will run for a few seconds at high idle, then stall out. After re-starting it will run a bit longer, then die, like its out of gas. Usually a third time it runs just great. When warm its adjusted so it doesn't skip the chain at idle and cuts very well (a loud little guy). It has a new plug with what looks like a strong spark. It sure is hard to pull too so i always assumed it has good compression. The exhaust port is clear. I know it sucks plenty of fuel since the plug will get wet with enough pulls.

From what i read on this board, i thought i would try to rebuild the carb (and lose a million parts in the process) or maybe look into piston rings? Is it possible that poor eadjustment would let it run so well but not start? The flywheel doesn't look like it ever sheared a thing.

Any advice would be great, I know he would love to watch me cut with his favorite old saw...

-Pete

PS- if you tell me to save my pennies and have the saw looked at by a pro in a bit i will listen, i just like to learn as much as possible.
 
mc culloch 10-10 trouble.

i have 3 of these saws..a 2-10...a 10-10 and a 10-10a....most likely you need a carburator rebuilt kit ..these saws are old and the diaphragm and pump material will hardened with time.After the carb rebuilt do not try to start the saw...you need to remove the gaz line tube, make sure it is not cracket or plugged with old gaz varnish or sucking air and last flush the tank and replace the gaz filter and inspect the line inside the tank...that is probably al gummed up and restrict the continous flow of fresh gaz to the carb.Finally reajust the carb and you should be in business...That will fix your problem.
 
thanks for the reply, thats what i was thinking..

about cleaning out all the varnished gas, will carb cleaner get the job done?

-pete
 
Mac 10-10 Tank Cleaning

What i have been using to clean tank is engine solvant cleaner.Is is sold by the gallon for cheap. I fill half the thank and put silica sand (about a cup) and let it sit for a fiew days.Once in a while i go by and shake the tank....the silica act as an abrasive and really cleans all the dirt since the cap hole is too small to insert a sandblast gun in the tank. When it's all cleaned i flush the tank in hot water to remove all sand particles and the solvent can be reused in my cleaning tank by filtering it....pretty easy.....done this for 25 years without problems.....thanks,
 
Carb cleaner is rather brutal on rubber parts. You will do a lot better to just soak it all in White Spirit for 24 hours. The cheapest source is "Coleman Stove Fuel" which is roughly 100% Naptha.
 
I have a 10-10 Auto myself, if I'm not mistaken, and correct me if I'm wrong, but the top of the fuel tank can be removed, and you can access the tank to clean or replace fuel pickup parts as needed through there I think.
 
carb cleaner...beware

DO NOT use carb cleaner since it is acetone based it will destroy the rubber parts in the carburator. You can use carb cleaner when the carburator is dissambled in pieces and all diaphragm and rubber seals are put aside .It is made to clean metal parts ...not rubber and "o" rings or fiber washers.
 
tank cleaning

You are right the 10-10 tank can be splitted in half but it will cost you a new gasket ...if it's not backorder at the shop......then you will have to wait fot the part ....like the old saying "if it's not broken dont fix it"
 
Petemac....final job

With all these advise from the pro's you should have this saw up and running and tested on 3 cords of wood by now......this would be your final job ..lol....lol.
 
haha, not up and running yet been to busy to get a look at it. Thanks again for all the tips, i will let you guys know how it goes.

-pete
 

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