McCulloch CHAINSAW Mac Series start of production? / 3/8 inch pitch .050 gauge and bars that fit the prior to the MAC McCulloch chainsaws?

[AZWoodworker]

Does anyone know when the Mac's and Pro Mac's started production? Some use similar numbers and in searching for parts I am unsure if some of the bars, spurs and sprokets are interchangable? The new McCollochs after the brand name was sold use different bars, pitch and gauge. Completely different saws. Second question is anyone know of sprokets or spurs 3/8 inch pitch .050 gauge and bars that fit these old McCollogh chainsaws?

I was tryig to lower the gauge to .050 with 3/8 pitch. and increase the sprokets size to 8 or 9 to speed up the chain and increase the speed of milling. I have a McColloch 650, 1-40, and a 1-52. They all use 7 pin sockets .063 guage and, .404 pitch. I use the 1-40 for some chainsaw milling with the small Alaskan Mill with a 20 inch bar. Slow going due to higher torque with lower RPM's. The other two I had different plans for, but never found the bars and parts for it. Pulled them out again. The 650 and the 1-52 are 89 CC's and 87 CC's.

I would just opt for some new saws, but the cost is high and I plan to go with Bandsaw milling instead. I had a good amount of stored exotic hardwoods taking up 75 percent of my backyard. I want to just have the ability to continue to take in logs and mill as I go every now and then.

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

Does anyone know when the Mac's and Pro Mac's started production? Some use similar numbers and in searching for parts I am unsure if some of the bars, spurs and sprokets are interchangable? The new McCollochs after the brand name was sold use different bars, pitch and gauge. Completely different saws. Second question is anyone know of sprokets or spurs 3/8 inch pitch .050 gauge and bars that fit these old McCollogh chainsaws?

I was tryig to lower the gauge to .050 with 3/8 pitch. and increase the sprokets size to 8 or 9 to speed up the chain and increase the speed of milling. I have a McColloch 650, 1-40, and a 1-52. They all use 7 pin sockets .063 guage and, .404 pitch. I use the 1-40 for some chainsaw milling with the small Alaskan Mill with a 20 inch bar. Slow going due to higher torque with lower RPM's. The other two I had different plans for, but never found the bars and parts for it. Pulled them out again. The 650 and the 1-52 are 89 CC's and 87 CC's.

I would just opt for some new saws, but the cost is high and I plan to go with Bandsaw milling instead. I had a good amount of stored exotic hardwoods taking up 75 percent of my backyard. I want to just have the ability to continue to take in logs and mill as I go every now and then.

I picked up an 80cc Mac 250 which I gather was a 1963-1967 saw with the idea of milling with it, but then discovered it had a manual oiler, was ear splittingly loud, and still have not been able to get it to dependably run well. I put it aside when I got my 87cc Stihls running well for milling. I am running the same setups on them I would have run on the Mac though. They're older high torque saws, not as slow as the Mac, but still want to up the chain speed on them. Using 3/8LP .050 chain with GB lo pro bars from the UK (see my post on the 48" bar I just bought). The sprockets can be bought from https://6kproducts.com/chain_saw_sprocket.html in Washington state. Kind of pricey - a 10 pin 3/8LP (they label it .375 Picco) cost me $50 or so - but they're quality American made sprockets and impossible to find from anywhere else. The 10 pin proved to be too ambitious as I'd need to mod the tail of my bars for it to not be too big, but 8 or 9 should work fine and cost a bit less. I have an extra couple new 36" GB lo pro bars I could sell one of if you wanted to go that route. You'd pretty much have to make your own chain loops though to determine exactly what fit a larger sprocket and your setup. I buy 3/8LP .050 ripping chain from ArcherPlus in 25' rolls for $80 or so to make my loops. I assume the Macs take the standard Large Oregon 7 spline that 6k sells for saws over 60cc, but would have to double check on mine to be sure.

 

[AZWoodworker]

I will check out if 6K Products. I checked with Oregon and another supplier some time back and stated no drums for sprokets types for the models I have, and McCullough did not make 8's in sprockets.

Maybe this company has it. I have the 1-52 and 650 87 CC's. The MAC name is throwing me off. I just looked through the manufacturer list of years of McCullough production and the 1-52 was desinated a Mac. I've searching Ebay and parts but the ring sprockets do not show compatibility.

I think my post might have been unclear on what I need. However interested in the bars you mentioned. What sizes do you have?

I have the two Granberg small log and 30 inch. I have two 076 AV on a sperber dual mill with a 50" bar. I never changed to 050 or sped up the chain. This is dual chainsaw bar. The 076 have plenty of power to run the bar with 063 chain. Durability of the chain and size is why I never changed it for chain speed.

One of the 076's need some maintenance so out of service till I get the parts and have the inserts to install for the stripped aluminum. Old Saws require planning ahead, and active maintenance

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

Best I can tell, the 1-52 was made 1961-62 and uses the same drum as my 250. It's McCulloch 90359 - https://www.ebay.com/itm/194958770096
I think it's a 22mm internal diameter rim, or standard Oregon large spline, but I'm not sure, again will have to check mine.
Are the 87cc saws set up as spur drums or rim drums right now? The whole thing is a minor PITA to use anything aside from original McCulloch bars. I thought mine was an original .050 rollernose McCulloch bar set up to run the odd .404 .050 McCulloch chain and that I could run any type of .050 chain with the right drive sprocket due to it being a rollernose, but turns out my rollernose bar is more conventional .063. If you can find an old McCulloch rollernose .050 bar that would be the best bet.

 

[AZWoodworker]

Best I can tell, the 1-52 was made 1961-62 and uses the same drum as my 250. It's McCulloch 90359 - https://www.ebay.com/itm/194958770096
I think it's a 22mm internal diameter rim, or standard Oregon large spline, but I'm not sure, again will have to check mine.
Are the 87cc saws set up as spur drums or rim drums right now? The whole thing is a minor PITA to use anything aside from original McCulloch bars. I thought mine was an original .050 rollernose McCulloch bar set up to run the odd .404 .050 McCulloch chain and that I could run any type of .050 chain with the right drive sprocket due to it being a rollernose, but turns out my rollernose bar is more conventional .063. If you can find an old McCulloch rollernose .050 bar that would be the best bet.

McCulloch 90359 is good news. Thanks a lot. They are spur drums. There is a big washer on one side to keep the chain on. Looks dangerous at best. There is a washer, drum Spur, cluch and nut. I am hoping to find some pictures or diagrams. I just purchased a parts diagram but have no idea what in it. I purchased this for I think $75 from a old guy in the desert. He sold me three and one bar and some chain. He had a lot of old McCullough, but no bars. He had a lot of odd tricks I later found out in the repair and maintence while getting the 1-40 functioning.

One thing I found with chainsaws is using the gage to check everything chain, bar, etc. At the RPM's they roll everything has to match.

I checked some of your posts absolutely agree on not wanting run big chain on lower CC's saws when logs are in the 10 to 25 inch range. The higher RPM's also makes a big differnce. I exclusive to chainsaw hardwoods. If I can do the set up on the 3/8 .050 chain and bar.

The 1-52 is a direct drive and the 650 is a gear drive. I haven't yet found out if that is going to be a problem. You have any data on that.

 

[serdie]

Use a large mount husqvarna bar file about -010 out of the bar slot and dremel an oil channel in it on both sides of the bar. I think only the super 250 used a rim sprocket and maybe other 87cc Macs . The crank set up on a 250 is different from a super 250

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

The 1-52 is a direct drive and the 650 is a gear drive. I haven't yet found out if that is going to be a problem. You have any data on that.

Actually turns out I bought an Oregon rim sprocket drum and clutch for my 250 I never even opened the package til now cause I abandoned the idea of milling with it. It is a 22mm ID seven spline large rim sprocket drum which fits my 10 pin sprocket I bought and any modern large saw 8 or 9 tooth rim sprocket will also fit it. Haven't fit it to the saw and trust as was listed on EBay it really is for a 250 but everything looks right.

Don't know anything on the direct vs gear drive. As was mentioned above, the 250 crank is different than the Super 250, as the 650's were also a whole different saw than the later "Pro Mac 650". I think the early to mid-1960's saws like the 1-52, 650, and 250 are all the same setups but not certain. The 87cc 650 was just the larger version of my 80cc 250 at the time, like 1964 to 1966, and the 1-52 was a slightly earlier predecessor to the 650. All of these when buying parts have to be separated out from anything done in the 1970's using any of the same numbers like "Pro Mac 650" or "Super 250", etc, as those were all different saws.

I can sell you the Oregon rim sprocket drum and clutch for what I paid, which was something like $30 plus shipping, once I establish it does fit my 250 and that your 650 has the same cranks.

As the above post says, you can mod a Husky bar to with minor expansion of the slot or easier you can use a Stihl 12mm mount bar with a downsizing Husky insert adapter and just open up the slot on the adapter a little bit to fit the McCulloch mount (I think the McCulloch is 9.5mm and the Husky 9.2mm if I remember right).

I think lo pro is the only sensible way to chainsaw mill 1400-2700 Janka serious hardwoods (white oak-pecan-mesquite-live oak- exotics) vs what most people in the US deal with in hardwood (800-1200 Janka walnut-cherry-elm-etc). But I've stopped trying to convince people much to switch to it unless they're willing to dedicate a milling setup to it they're not going to use for anything else, because of having to have a lo pro specific bar, chain, and sprocket. Using regular 3/8 setup does make it easier to obtain 8 and 9 tooth sprockets for cheap, because they're common. and it's to get 3/8 .050 ripping chain and 3/8 .050 bars.

 

[AZWoodworker]

Actually turns out I bought an Oregon rim sprocket drum and clutch for my 250 I never even opened the package til now cause I abandoned the idea of milling with it. It is a 22mm ID seven spline large rim sprocket drum which fits my 10 pin sprocket I bought and any modern large saw 8 or 9 tooth rim sprocket will also fit it. Haven't fit it to the saw and trust as was listed on EBay it really is for a 250 but everything looks right.

Don't know anything on the direct vs gear drive. As was mentioned above, the 250 crank is different than the Super 250, as the 650's were also a whole different saw than the later "Pro Mac 650". I think the early to mid-1960's saws like the 1-52, 650, and 250 are all the same setups but not certain. The 87cc 650 was just the larger version of my 80cc 250 at the time, like 1964 to 1966, and the 1-52 was a slightly earlier predecessor to the 650. All of these when buying parts have to be separated out from anything done in the 1970's using any of the same numbers like "Pro Mac 650" or "Super 250", etc, as those were all different saws.

I can sell you the Oregon rim sprocket drum and clutch for what I paid, which was something like $30 plus shipping, once I establish it does fit my 250 and that your 650 has the same cranks.

As the above post says, you can mod a Husky bar to with minor expansion of the slot or easier you can use a Stihl 12mm mount bar with a downsizing Husky insert adapter and just open up the slot on the adapter a little bit to fit the McCulloch mount (I think the McCulloch is 9.5mm and the Husky 9.2mm if I remember right).

I think lo pro is the only sensible way to chainsaw mill 1400-2700 Janka serious hardwoods (white oak-pecan-mesquite-live oak- exotics) vs what most people in the US deal with in hardwood (800-1200 Janka walnut-cherry-elm-etc). But I've stopped trying to convince people much to switch to it unless they're willing to dedicate a milling setup to it they're not going to use for anything else, because of having to have a lo pro specific bar, chain, and sprocket. Using regular 3/8 setup does make it easier to obtain 8 and 9 tooth sprockets for cheap, because they're common. and it's to get 3/8 .050 ripping chain and 3/8 .050 bars.

You been very helpful. The set-up I plan will be new and independent to use on my 3 foot Sperber. See attached picture. It is only two large bolts and two hex screws to change out the saws and bar in one assembly for milling. So pretty fast turn. Since it is a brand new set up I am looking into the lo Pro. I looked before but once you have a set up it is not all that exciting to change it around, unless there is too many problems. I tolerate a lot of problems. LOL. Don't be frustrated about trying to offer better ideas. It's usually not the ideas that seem to rattle people it is speaking at all. It interferes with their limited facts. On anoter site getting info on McCullough's and asking some questions. Some just want to show they are right or smart and when you tie them down, they have no experience at all they just have an idea fixed in their brains that opposes you talking at all.

At the time I looked the Lo Pro it was more expensive, and was not the speed I was concerned about, but thickness of the cut. Since I had so much wood it did not matter if I lost yield. I spent a lot of money over the years milling but it all paid for itself selling some of the slabs so I am overall happy. (Just tears when I sell wood instead of making things.) For time it takes per cut in milling I am looking for a bandsaw mill. A big investment. Although I just saw a massive chainsaw mill on craigslist. It was listed as $1,500 close by where I live. Waiting to hear back. I would not use a chainsaw but use the bar and chain and gear it with a 4 stroke 15 HP engine, but checking to see on that possibility.

Either way I am certain I want to keep milling so info on bars and set ups ideas are great.

I ordered drum the one you sent me the link on from Ebay so will check how that fits. It is Hard to cross reference these old saws from McCullough as little documentation remains. I will check that and see if your drum will work. Let me know what you find.

I am also checking some sites that are specific McColloch fan boys for info and sent some question out to the marketplace guys on those sites. Will see what they say. I would image there has to be some cross over.

 

[AZWoodworker]

Use a large mount husqvarna bar file about -010 out of the bar slot and dremel an oil channel in it on both sides of the bar. I think only the super 250 used a rim sprocket and maybe other 87cc Macs . The crank set up on a 250 is different from a super 250

The crank set up ? Not familiar with this term. Sorry I do this stuff but not really a gear head, Although I am a certifed Aviation Powerplant and Airframe Mechanic from years back I like many others studied but went into business. Life's adventures.

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

The crank set up ? Not familiar with this term. Sorry I do this stuff but not really a gear head, Although I am a certifed Aviation Powerplant and Airframe Mechanic from years back I like many others studied but went into business. Life's adventures.

Sorry, bad phrasing, I just meant the crankshaft the needle bearing and drum is mounted on as well as the clutch.

 

[AZWoodworker]

I just found a site https://www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com/mcculloch-literature.html#/ that has the old McColloch Illustrated parts list for a whole series of McCulloch. Big find. I downloaded the 650. Haven't found the 1-52 yet in the list, but nice to have some documentation. This one was printed in 1970. I am hoping to be able to see how the spur drum was installed and with what parts. What i have I think is just a washer that goes just before the saw itself. Lots of play so does not look like how it was desighed.

I checked with 6K and they can make a floating rim that can go on the shaft for the 650. The drum is spline installed the guy told me, so I have to measure it out to see if they have the specs. Thanks again to Coralillo Lo Pro for the lead.

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

I like the idea of carriage based chainsaw mills with larger four stroke engines. I feel like few chainsaws, even my 121cc monster, are capable of efficiently milling hardwood w 3/8 and .404. You need 15hp to efficiently move a blade that size through hardwood. Most of the Logosol carriage style portable chainsaw mills in Europe are running lo pro setups now. A Stihl 660 and 3/8LP chain is a common combination on them. I mow through 15" mesquite with lo pro at twice the speed, even when I was only using a 64cc saw, than I did with .404 chain on my 121cc saw. 87cc and a 36" lo pro bar is a great combination on my Stihl 056 Super. If you do get a lo pro floating rim that works, I can offer you one of these bars for $150 shipped - https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/product/snhsa36-50wr-3691cm-gb-lo-pro-milling-barsingle-slot/
I can probably make up some new chain loops to sell you with it once we figure out the number of drive links you'll need, if you don't have your own equipment to make loops with. Because I'm pretty sure I have the same McCulloch kind of saw you do, I should be able to check out the fit and even make the tweaks in a Stihl to Husky adapter to make the bar mount fit perfectly. We're trying to do pretty much the same thing with 87cc saws, I've done it on my Stihl already but do want to put a larger sprocket than the 7 pin I'm running right now. Just a matter of getting the drive sprocket set up on yours and the bar mount adapter sorted and you should be able to run the same setup.

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

Here’s the Oregon rim drum, perfect fit on my 250. Ten pin sprocket installed. Also photo of old spur sprocket. Simple as removal and install as can be.

 

[AZWoodworker]

Here’s the Oregon rim drum, perfect fit on my 250. Ten pin sprocket installed. Also photo of old spur sprocket. Simple as removal and install as can be.

View attachment 1181882View attachment 1181883

I will get to check this out. First the 650 I have is a gear drive. does not look like the clutch is there. Should be two shafts. I will take picts, but attached a PDF parts Diagram This looks exactly like the 152 87 CC I have with the clutch inside. You may have it there just not seeing it. There is that "big washer" I was talking about. Cool that looks right just need to check the inside dimension and see if it matches. Good Show.

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

I will get to check this out. First the 650 I have is a gear drive. does not look like the clutch is there. Should be two shafts. I will take picts, but attached a PDF parts Diagram This looks exactly like the 152 87 CC I have with the clutch inside. You may have it there just not seeing it. There is that "big washer" I was talking about. Cool that looks right just need to check the inside dimension and see if it matches. Good Show.

I have the clutch removed out of picture didn't put it back on to take the pic. Spun it off clockwise with impact gun and 11/16 socket. The gear drive 650 is a whole different kettle of fish, but I guess you said 6k can make you something for it.