McCulloch Mac 2-10

[a. palmer jr.]

I keep the old points system as long as it will work. The points are gapped the same way you would an old car except with a saw you generally have to either take the flywheel off or, if the flywheel has windows, through the window. I don't think yours has windows so take the flywheel off and turn the engine by hand until the points are at their widest gap and work from there. The wider the points are gapped the earlier the engine fires. If you don't have them gapped wide enough it won't have the pep it should have and will be harder to start.

 

[astnmacgto]

As long as the points are working well I won't mess with them, but if I have to pull the flywheel on one to mess with an ignition issue, it gets a bug that way I can eliminate one whole issue to help me narrow down my problem

 

[astnmacgto]

I hoping to get my hands on a minty 1-10 soon, but I know for sure that it has the mcculloch bullfrog carb as mark called it, idk what it will take to make it run but I'm not afraid of a challenge if I have to do a little machine work so that I can keep my original tank and cover so be it, let the games begin

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I think I'd just as soon have another 10-10S..great saws!

 

[astnmacgto]

Well I already have five other 10-10 models of different design and colors so it's time to find a few other 10 series saws

 

[Macgary]

I keep the old points system as long as it will work. The points are gapped the same way you would an old car except with a saw you generally have to either take the flywheel off or, if the flywheel has windows, through the window. I don't think yours has windows so take the flywheel off and turn the engine by hand until the points are at their widest gap and work from there. The wider the points are gapped the earlier the engine fires. If you don't have them gapped wide enough it won't have the pep it should have and will be harder to start.

Thanks, so points are behind flywheel. I'll take a look later today and see what they look line, clean and adjust.

 

[heimannm]

Ideal point gap is 0.018 to 0.020". Make sure to polish them until they are bright and shiny, and clean them several times with carburetor cleaner then dragging a clean piece of paper through them.

Mark

 

[Macgary]

Ideal point gap is 0.018 to 0.020". Make sure to polish them until they are bright and shiny, and clean them several times with carburetor cleaner then dragging a clean piece of paper through them.

Mark

Thanks, before I start, does the flywheel nut loosen right? Reverse threads, so righty loosey lefty tighty?

 

[heimannm]

Flywheel threads are RH so turn left to remove.

All of the older RH start saws had a key in the crank shaft and RH threads on the clutch. There were a few SP80 with a keyed crankshaft and RH threads, seems all of the later saws with the LH start had the LH threads on the clutch nut.

Mark

 

[Macgary]

Well, took the flywheel off and cleaned everything up. Cleaned and adjusted the points to.019, put her back together with new plug gap.025. Would not start, a little starting fluid and it runs for a few seconds so I'm guessing carb problems even though I took carb apart and cleaned in ultra sonic. to It's getting fuel, if you take off fuel line to carb gas is coming out. So the idle adjustment screw on this I just backed it off till it wasn't touching the plate and then turned in contacting the plate or stop and then 1 turn in. High speed at 1 turn out. When I cleaned the carb there was a very small o ring in the body of the carb that had dissinegrated to basically gum. I found an o ring that was close in size but too big diameter wise by a bit so I used some fine sand paper to get it fit but I'm wondering if the actual hole in the o ring needs to be specific in size/diameter. Now I am on a mission to get this thing running so any help from the members here is greatly appreciated.

 

[heimannm]

If you have the bullfrog carburetor, that may have been a little duckbill valve and not an o-ring. Was there a small check ball and seat, or just an empty hole? I only have a photo of the carburetor with the duck bill valve, but some versions had a ball and seat at the check valve in the same location.





Mark

 

[Macgary]

If you have the bullfrog carburetor, that may have been a little duckbill valve and not an o-ring. Was there a small check ball and seat, or just an empty hole? I only have a photo of the carburetor with the duck bill valve, but some versions had a ball and seat at the check valve in the same location.

View attachment 523957



Mark

That's the carb right there. I believe the oring was in the hole right underneath the valve. How should that valve be adjusted?

 

[heimannm]

The metering lever should be level with the body of the carburetor.



Mark

 

[Macgary]

Well tore the carb back apart and adjusted metering lever, it was too low. So adjusted put back together. Took the muffler off (pain even with pb blaster) cleaned up. Thought I had it, has good spark also, points adjusted. Still won't start, carb not leaking gas, primer works. The thing is when I take the spark plug out, cause I thought it may be flooded there was only a faint smell of gas, plug wasn't wet at all. So I'm stumped. I want to thank you Mark for all your help and the pics really helped me out. Fuel, air and spark should be all it takes, so thinking a fuel problem.

 

[astnmacgto]

Well tore the carb back apart and adjusted metering lever, it was too low. So adjusted put back together. Took the muffler off (pain even with pb blaster) cleaned up. Thought I had it, has good spark also, points adjusted. Still won't start, carb not leaking gas, primer works. The thing is when I take the spark plug out, cause I thought it may be flooded there was only a faint smell of gas, plug wasn't wet at all. So I'm stumped. I want to thank you Mark for all your help and the pics really helped me out. Fuel, air and spark should be all it takes, so thinking a fuel problem.

I brought my 1-10 home earlier and after some measuring and a lot of pondering, I've figured out how to put a walbro sdc from another early 10-10 on it without changing tank bodies and everything else, I have a ton of projects going on right now but I will try to keep you posted as I head down the road of discovery so to speak
ADLM

 

[astnmacgto]

Hopefully we can both learn something as I go and hopefully I works out like I have intended it to

 

[Macgary]

Thanks, would be interested in seeing your project.

 

[heimannm]

We will all be watching...

Mark

 

[astnmacgto]

Oh no... now im really nervous....... Maybe mine is different from most but it appears with a couple drilled and tapped holes with a different gasket or two and then switch the linkages it should work, but we will see
ADLM

 

[Macgary]

Mark or anybody know how to set the high and low adjustment on these flat carbs. I've got the low adjusted till it hits idle tab and then 1 turn in, which I believe to be right but not sure on the high adjust screw. Think this may be the problem as it started yesterday the the idle just started going higher and higher then we shut it down. The high screw is adjusted all the way down till it stops and then 1 turn out. Actually I'm not quite sure the other screw is high speed but another low speed adjust.