Mcculloch pro Mac 610

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Here's pics I haven't got her runnin yet I'm going to rebuild the carb the diaphragm is pretty stiff. So 9$ and hopefully I'll have it running. So if it runs I'll probably do fuel lines spark plug ect. And maybe use it for a bit then hopefully sell it. The guy I bought it from said he'd give me my money back if it doesn't run so I won't be out much if the rebuilding the card doesn't get it. image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
 
One huge tip for this type of saw is the fuel cap, if the vent isn't working properly fuel will either be starved after running for a while or you won't get fuel to the carb easily. I even rebuilt the carb with a new kit with zero change. I robbed a tank vent off a cheap poolan to repair my 605, it can be left for an hr an restarts with a simple tug, not drop after ....drop start....

It has to push fuel out the fuel line when it's disconnected or you'll be chasing your tail.
 
I'm so cheap, I try this first...Submerge metering diaphragm in brake fluid. I've gotten real stiff ones to get somewhat pliable and actually run saw.

Not a bad looking saw, it probably has a molded fuel line, plenty on eBay.

Sent from my Prism II from T-Mobile, Steve

One huge tip for this type of saw is the fuel cap, if the vent isn't working properly fuel will either be starved after running for a while or you won't get fuel to the carb easily. I even rebuilt the carb with a new kit with zero change. I robbed a tank vent off a cheap poolan to repair my 605, it can be left for an hr an restarts with a simple tug, not drop after ....drop start....

It has to push fuel out the fuel line when it's disconnected or you'll be chasing your tail.
Thanks for the tips! all help is apreciated! :rock:
 
Here's pics I haven't got her runnin yet I'm going to rebuild the carb the diaphragm is pretty stiff. So 9$ and hopefully I'll have it running. So if it runs I'll probably do fuel lines spark plug ect. And maybe use it for a bit then hopefully sell it. The guy I bought it from said he'd give me my money back if it doesn't run so I won't be out much if the rebuilding the card doesn't get it. View attachment 417492 View attachment 417497 View attachment 417499
Man I didn't know how bad pictures those are:surprised3:
 
It is in the cap, dead center and mine had rotted away so it was just venting and not building pressure. It's a, got the parts level fix.

0408150805a.jpg

Installed a short piece of fuel line into the hole in the cap, and installed the check valve I pulled from a Poolan carcase, I could have cut the ends down but it makes no difference in operation. Problem solved till I find a new/better cap.
 
That looks like a vacuum ck valve from a car, not the usual duck valve. Oh, it doesn't build pressure, it just keeps the fuel tank from having a vacuum and the pump not being able to pump.

Sent from my Prism II from T-Mobile, Steve
 
That looks like a vacuum ck valve from a car, not the usual duck valve. Oh, it doesn't build pressure, it just keeps the fuel tank from having a vacuum and the pump not being able to pump.

Sent from my Prism II from T-Mobile, Steve
I would think you could do the same thing with a duck valve. I worked on a homelite xl2 and unknowingly plugged the vent whole and it wouldn't pull fuel up to the carb I put a new duckvalve in it and it started pulling fuel.
 
Gas cap would be best, be nice to find another brand saw that would fit that had a valve.

Sent from my Prism II from T-Mobile, Steve
My cap doesn't have any kind of vent on it. And I got the carb kit today maybe I'll be able to get it in tomorrow
 
I looked at my cap last night and it has the end of a small coil spring hanging out of a hole in the inside, so clearly some part of the valve is missing. It probably vents fine but would likely leak if left on it's side too long. I will look into it more later, and probably graft on some other valve arrangement.
 
It could be intact yet but the bottom of the spring has come out. The check ball is above the spring and if you take off the fuel line off the carb, and give the saw a little shake and fuel comes out fairly solidly, the check ball is seating, and if the saw runs out good, then the ball is unseating to let in air, so it working.

Mine wasn't and that's why I jury rigged up a fix. I wonder how many saws are sitting around dead due to bad caps?
 

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