McCulloch super 250 for $60 Deal or No Deal

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Cool saw! A friend called a few months ago and said he was selling his Dad's two old Mac's, a 550 and a Mac 15. First yellow saws I've held in close to 40 years. The 550 runs and has me hooked on Mac's again. I always have my eyes open for big saws, but I've passed on some Macs I should have bought. Won't happen again.
 
Cool saw! A friend called a few months ago and said he was selling his Dad's two old Mac's, a 550 and a Mac 15. First yellow saws I've held in close to 40 years. The 550 runs and has me hooked on Mac's again. I always have my eyes open for big saws, but I've passed on some Macs I should have bought. Won't happen again.
Cool I'm just getting into this stuff. I got this one for $35 and was surprised to find it ran at all. I'm having fun cleaning it up and playing around with it.
 
You probably know this but
Just some info about your chain and bar.

While you have the chain off count the drive links (DL) and this is ONE of the things what you go by when you are going to replace the chain. If the chain tensioner is all the way out at the end to get a correct chain tension you can usually go with one less DL count so as to get the chain tensioner backed off for spare adjustment range as the new chain wears in.

Even though that is a 30 inch bar you would go by the useable length as measured when on the saw.
The bar length when measured off the saw will vary with different saw makes.

For example: you need to know at least the following for areplacement chain.
Type chain Skip tooth, etc, full chisel,
# of DL's,
Gauge of DL's which=width (thickness) of DLs. to fit the bar groove correctly. You can measure this Gauge with a micrometer if you do not already know.
Pitch, yours is .404
 
Full chisel is the shape of the cutter. Full chisel has a square working corner. Semi chisel has a bit of a rounded working corner and chipper, which isnt available anymore as far as I know, is even rounded than semi chisel. This is a pretty good explanation.
 
Full chisel is the shape of the cutter. Full chisel has a square working corner. Semi chisel has a bit of a rounded working corner and chipper, which isnt available anymore as far as I know, is even rounded than semi chisel. This is a pretty good explanation.

Looks normal. I thought a chisel tooth will have to be sharpened with the square file I guess I must be thinking of a different type of tooth
 
Full chisel is the shape of the cutter. Full chisel has a square working corner. Semi chisel has a bit of a rounded working corner and chipper, which isnt available anymore as far as I know, is even rounded than semi chisel. This is a pretty good explanation.

That guy's videos are pretty good. He's a odd bird
 
What type of paint at local store is a close match. Hey dropped the side cover and some of the old JB welded stuff snapped off so I redid it with some stuff that I had laying around but if stuff comes out a purple e color so I want to paint over it after I sand it a little bit
 

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Rustoleum Sunburst Yellow is a good match for the later PM saws, for the older saws several different Implement Color Match paints John Deere Yellow are not too bad. The best results are often achieved using a base coat of the Sunburst yellow then light coats of safety yellow or John Deere yellow until it comes close to matching.

Mark
 
Rustoleum Sunburst Yellow is a good match for the later PM saws, for the older saws several different Implement Color Match paints John Deere Yellow are not too bad. The best results are often achieved using a base coat of the Sunburst yellow then light coats of safety yellow or John Deere yellow until it comes close to matching.

Mark
Nice I just wanna hide the epoxy
 
P_20180814_220958_p.jpg P_20180815_235954_p.jpg P_20180814_235716_p.jpg P_20180814_221015_p.jpg P_20180814_215540_p.jpg P_20180814_221019_p.jpg P_20180814_215519_p.jpg P_20180814_224938_p.jpg P_20180815_235954_p.jpg I couldn't find the exact same name paint but this is close what I might do is get some other stuff and try and mix them together and then use my paint so
 
Noticed your muffler has a hose clamp around it.

Keep a eye and ear open and eventually install a muffler like this one. It is a direct bolt on in place of yours and is a bullet proof type muffler and has really good sound. (no baffles inside and is easy to prime the saw through the muffler. If it don't have a gasket with the muffler make one. The 1-40, 1-50 series of Mac's used this same muffler and one like yours also so they are lots around, just have to watch for a reasonable price.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MUFFLER-FO...PEAAOSwJjZa3rk7:sc:USPSFirstClass!74346!US!-1
 
Noticed your muffler has a hose clamp around it.

Keep a eye and ear open and eventually install a muffler like this one. It is a direct bolt on in place of yours and is a bullet proof type muffler and has really good sound. (no baffles inside and is easy to prime the saw through the muffler. If it don't have a gasket with the muffler make one. The 1-40, 1-50 series of Mac's used this same muffler and one like yours also so they are lots around, just have to watch for a reasonable price.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MUFFLER-FO...PEAAOSwJjZa3rk7:sc:USPSFirstClass!74346!US!-1
His muffler is supposed to have a hose clamp around it. It is the style that you can loosen the clamp and change the direction of the outlet.
I agree though, the stack muffler is nice for priming a dry saw.
 
The one you showed is an exhaust stack, not a muffler. The muffler he had is correct and the way to go. Its what the big 797's and cp125's came with.
Yeah all of them I've seen have this. I don't think I would want the other thing because it's more likely to burn my arm you can't divert the flow of exhaust I don't I don't have any problems with this
 
I need to figure out how to mount this beast on the wall.
Love looking at it but don't have a real need for it
 
I need to figure out how to mount this beast on the wall.
Love looking at it but don't have a real need for it

RED NECK style mounting: Just some general ideas for mounting the big mac on the living room wall.

Put it on the livin room wall. Just fire it up and cut a slot in the wall, Interior wall preferred, and tie a bailing wire on the handle and drive a nail into the ceiling to help hold the saw upwards. Place a piece of sheet iron on the floor to catch the oil drippins. Place it next to the Deer heads. If deer heads and fish mounts take up the whole wall you might have to add a partition wall for the saw and future deer and fish mounts. Have a trustworthy Buddy, like Bubba hold your beer so you don't get sawdust in the beer.

Hang a rag over the bar in the opposite room so you won't cut your head on the chain and you can use it to hang your hat.

OR option 2 mounting for the living room:

Drive two or 3 nails into the ceiling and hang the complete saw with a good grade of bailing wire, not the really rusty stuff.. May have to add braces to the ceiling joists, that's a heavy saw.

Do not place it where oil will drip down onto your large screen TV.

How do I know all of this sort of stuff. I'm a country Redneck hunter fisherman chainsaw user.

Send us redneck pic's after you get it hanging.:)
 
I need to figure out how to mount this beast on the wall.
Love looking at it but don't have a real need for it
If you ever get a chance to put it in some wood, push it hard, and it will come alive, that's is when the super 250 will show what it REALLY is and why it is legendary. You may then decide it's too cool to be sidelined to wall hanger status.
 
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