McCulloch Super Pro 60 - Cold Weather Edition

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The previous owner (original) was a volunteer firefighter, so are "local mods" are OE or something else? And yes I store my firewood upside down.

Randy, I completely don't understand 'storing firewood upside down' ....

'Local mods' are (to me) local modifications, meaning done at home or on site; changes/repairs done with non-OEM parts or methods. I'm not providing any opinion on whether they were good or bad, just that they were done. I have the saw completely torn down right now and the local mods I've so far identified are .... the reversed muffler direction ... an Atom module installed ... impulse line replaced with some sort of steel-braid-reinforced hose ... the spark plug wire was moved inside the shroud .... the throttle/choke snubber was replaced with a spring. I tend to think that local mods are a sign of a resourceful owner.



Today's progress: Saw is completely torn down and all parts accounted for. Order for parts will be sent tonight and the dreaded cleaning (LOL) will begin tomorrow in the PPW.

I'm trying as much as I can to preserve as many of the original parts as I can. The biggest enemies I have of that goal are age and usage. Many parts are just dried out or worn out. To be safest, I'm going to replace the piston along with the rings. The cylinder has a bit of aluminum transfer, but should clean up well. Here's a piston pic:

 
I may have a good piston and cylinder, just have to make a call to see if was unmolested, if it is still origional spec. I will send it to you.
 
The project has hit a sort of 'dead spot' here ...

... since the main thing going on is priming/painting.

I did get the first application of Red-Kote in the fuel tank this morning. Thursday morning, I'll probably do another.


I thought I'd show some of the options that make this saw unique. In the upper-left is the (unpainted) duct that encloses the muffler .. below that is the rear hand guard I am adding ... to the right is the front hand guard, whose paint will remain untouched ... above that is the rubber grip for the rear handle ... and lastly, the air filter. The A/F cover's not pictured, as it's over with the parts getting painted.


Here's a shot of the A/F. Made from two layers of fine mesh screen. Never have seen another anything like it.

 
... since the main thing going on is priming/painting.

I did get the first application of Red-Kote in the fuel tank this morning. Thursday morning, I'll probably do another.


I thought I'd show some of the options that make this saw unique. In the upper-left is the (unpainted) duct that encloses the muffler .. below that is the rear hand guard I am adding ... to the right is the front hand guard, whose paint will remain untouched ... above that is the rubber grip for the rear handle ... and lastly, the air filter. The A/F cover's not pictured, as it's over with the parts getting painted.


Here's a shot of the A/F. Made from two layers of fine mesh screen. Never have seen another anything like it.


Good stuff. I'm guessing there's some waves of jealousy heading your way from Iowa.:D
 
Quick update ...

Howdy, fans of McSaws!

We're nearly finished painting. Only the top tank remains and the rear shroud needs a bit of touch-up. Everything still needs a clear-coat (which is fairly quick), then this painful step will be done.

I'm open to suggestions on removing the flywheel-side bearing. I've already tried freezing the assembly, hitting the bearing with a torch and attempting to slide it off. Problem was, I couldn't get all three 'claws' from my mini gear puller on the bearing.

My next idea is to do the freeze/torch thing .... mount the assembly between vise jaws and whack the end of the crank (after putting a nut on it) to see if I can force it down through the bearing.

Thoughts? Experiences?
 
Howdy, fans of McSaws!

We're nearly finished painting. Only the top tank remains and the rear shroud needs a bit of touch-up. Everything still needs a clear-coat (which is fairly quick), then this painful step will be done.

I'm open to suggestions on removing the flywheel-side bearing. I've already tried freezing the assembly, hitting the bearing with a torch and attempting to slide it off. Problem was, I couldn't get all three 'claws' from my mini gear puller on the bearing.

My next idea is to do the freeze/torch thing .... mount the assembly between vise jaws and whack the end of the crank (after putting a nut on it) to see if I can force it down through the bearing.

Thoughts? Experiences?

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Mark
 
You want me to bring mine over Ted? We'll have that bearing off in no time.

Chris B.

I got one with the jaws ground down real thin to get under those tight ones if you guys need it...

Thanks guys, I'm not quite out of the woods just yet ...

One of the many stops on my errand run this afternoon was at Harbor Freight. I grabbed a bearing puller kit on sale. It looks as though it will do nicely, but we'll see.
 
Let me know if the HF bearing splitter/puller works... I've got an 850 crank with a bad bearing on it.
 
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