Mechanical Ascender setups and Ascenscion Techniques

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
thinking of going with a frog system... kong on top with patin, still using blakes for a secondary. perhaps I'll grow to trust all mechanicals... but not yet.
 
no problems using VT.... but if I'm using the same split tail/ line combo as I'm currently using for blakes... why wouldn't it still work?

Be careful with the Blakes. My experience is that it does not grab a single line very well when both are of the same diameter.

But the VT does!

Quite a few are using the system you are describing.
 
foot locking is the best way to go. cheapest too.

ive got a dual ascender for 104$. spends most of its time in my toolbag. and thats for the double rope footlocking.

tell you what though, just footlocking to advance to another place on my hitch climber is pretty darn good. i'm liking that setup. its real nice.


hey apparbo whats all this going to your tip and being tied off to trucks? is that the srt technique?

Yeah right, you are still on a ladder. Nah, I love ya.
 
go anywhere
YardPicssummer08016.jpg


Did someone mention tying onto a truck?

carmella007.jpg

Oh stop, you know you like it.
 
OK... it looks like blakes is not good for SRT.... VT it is..
 
In the CMI frog system the climber is attached to the rope with two ascenders. This is a safe system and no prussic is needed.

To my knowledge, ANSI standards state that any mechanical system MUST be backed by some sort of hitch (usually a prussic).
 
To my knowledge, ANSI standards state that any mechanical system MUST be backed by some sort of hitch (usually a prussic).

I dont think that is so, because the Tree Frog uses a croll chest acender,and a handle ascender both which are attached to your sadddle bridge..
 
i think hitches are good at more angles and conditions (except dirty lines). Also, safety hitch should be higher than mechanical ascenders, so as not to be taken out by said mechanical ascendor.

Frictions hitches should not be used to descend SRT. In SRT they are double loaded (compaired to DdRT). But also, in DdRT the load weight (you) can shift to the non-friction hitch/terminated leg, unloading the hitch further for safe descent(under proper conditions). this werks like if using 2 legs of line to lower,a nd one extends further,t he other leg takes the load. SRT doesn't have this 'helper leg' to unload half the weight too, and then more when you go to 'extend' the leg with friction hitch on it.

Even if hitches tied the same, individual types of lines, diameters and personal setting habits etc. can make one werk some, when it isn't recomended. i think in a safety minded culture, the outright recomendations should then stay conservative, when they seem to bend the 'findings' of the populace.

Fixed eyes (bowlines, large eye splices) are okay on the more self righting snaps, but hitches that cinch up should be used on krabs that go beyond a single loading b4 inspecting IMLHO. Like if rigging down, align and test, then rig, then another run is anther inspection is lots safert than a point you can't inspect or one you are wearing and going through constant changes in angle and loadings...




.
 
Last edited:
Hold on there was supposed to be a picture on there. Here it is.. I can climb to the top of my 120ft Tulip Poplar in about 30seconds..

The Tree Frog is excellent, it's a minimal, clean and simple SRT ropewalker. You can climb as fast as your heart and lungs will let you.

For a Tree Frog you need a center waist attachment point for the Croll, the Petzl Sequoia SRT version harness or the Tree Flex have it. Any harness with a center waist belt buckle doesn't.
-moss
 
Last edited:
Moss, I attach the croll to my bridge on my BII with a AMD locking biner, The Petzl Secur is attached to center rear loop of my harness with a keychain biner. The back strap of the Petzl secur is not very important so a keychain biner works fine to keep it from flopping back over your shoulders.
 
Moss, I attach the croll to my bridge on my BII with a AMD locking biner, The Petzl Secur is attached to center rear loop of my harness with a keychain biner. The back strap of the Petzl secur is not very important so a keychain biner works fine to keep it from flopping back over your shoulders.

No doubt you're strong enough to overcome the difference between having the Croll at your waist or on the bridge. It doesn't seem like much difference but when the Croll is attached at the waist it holds you more vertical with less load on your arms. It adds up on a long ascent. I've rigged a tech cord sling on my NT harness to go up behind my waist belt to hold the Croll in an optimal position. Something similar could be rigged on a BII with some webbing or tech cord.

I made a bungee version of a Secur, whatever works, just need to hold the Croll up so it advances with no resistance.
-moss
 
Last edited:
Yeh, I kind bought my own Tree Frog system minus the Pantin, Which i have been useing for years on DRT. So when I finished my research and was ready to buy a SRT setup form Sherrills I just told them to send me the rest of the components.. I have only used the system on 13mm Pro Stripe I am curious to know if it performs that much better with Poison Ivy which will be my next rope purchase I think.. All I have ever climbed on is 1/2 lines.. So I would like to try climbing on a smaller line + to see if the VT and Distel performs better on smaller climbing lines..
 
"Another slick and easy way up is with a groundie or two pulling you up."

I've had two to three groundies try to pull my heavy arse up 60+ feet and you wear your ground guys out b4 you've even started a biggie and your in for it. I'd never leave one guy to pull me up unless I had a 7-1 pulley.

Set blocks up high and at base, use heavy duty gear, use lots of rope if needed and have a truck pull you up. Saved my ass on big 7ft DBH jeff pines in Sierras.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top