Meteor vs Mahle 046 Topend Comparison

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I'd personally like to see all comments made in this thread, so as to not restart the fighting. That's the last thing I want here.


OK!.....if these are dead even stock.....then why can't Brad make a ported Meteor cylinder run as good as an OEM cylinder.....Hmmmmmmmmm?......Hope that question doesn't restart the back stabbing & fighting......Hahahahahahaha!
 
So, is everyone afraid to comment?:) No, I told you so, or anything like that, lol?

Well, since you insist...... I'm glad you finished the test and I'll be the first to say that keeping your word is a big deal in today's crappy world!

I kept mine and provided an aftermarket kit that was as good as OEM in every performance way possible. Performance of the kit was exactly as I suspected, even if you don't like the reverse squish, that saw kicked butt! AND with no modifications I will say.

And you kept yours by finishing the test... even if you kicked and screamed all the way:msp_wink:

The kit even had gaskets and seals in it as well as the rod bearing.. nobody and I mean NOBODY provides a kit like mine at this price..... PERIOD!

Thank you Mr. Snelling

For the rest of you doubters and believer's....... get'em while there hot!!:cheers:
 
Runs a hell of a lot better on the saw than it did on the kitchen table, huh?:msp_rolleyes:
 
Hey watsonr........I'll buy the first drink!.......to help Brad swallow some of that "Crow"......Hahahahahahaha!
 
2hr1g5c.jpg
 
I'm not trying to be obstinate, but that's a serious issue, when it results in an overly tight squish, as this one nearly was.

I don't like that either. But at the amount of squish that's there it will be fine.

It's caused by the addition of the plating across the squish band and combustion chamber. When I cut the squish in these Meteor jugs the plating is really thick at the edge of the chamber and thinner near the bore edge.
 
Brad I'm glad you didn't flip flop....oh wait you did LOL. Sorry I couldn't resist.

I tried calling you. How are you feeling?

We had a real stinger tonight!!!!!!!

You would have never been able to stand it anyway.....good thing you were sick. :msp_wink:
 
If the average Joe is worried about the reverse squish, he can slap a piece of sticky back sandpaper on an old piston of the same MM bore and level it out if it's just a fuzz. I've done a few with my ''redneck'' machining skills. I chuck an I bolt in a drill, put an OLD piston on the end with the wrist pin slid through the eye in the I bolt. Stick a piece of 80-120-220 whatever grit sandpaper on the crown and spin it slowly till the reverse taper is gone. No It's probably not the correct way to do it, But it works fine for a hillbilly that's short on tools. It doesnt scratch the bore up either. Done several like this and they turned out good, but I wouldn't try removing much....I'd say less than .005 in my worthless opinion would be max I would go.
 

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