Milling questions

[begleytree]

Just for the heck of it I tried some milling today. Just playing, no mill or anything, guess about 1 inch thick and cut. Throw it over the hill when done. Tried some silver maple, sweetgum and ash as thats what was laying around handy.

Now the questions:

How do you keep the cutting smooth? Do you file a smaller angle on the chain and slow down the cut? different chain? I was using oregon 72 3/8 on a 046 with 36"B&C. Seemed to fuzz the cut alot, not real smooth. Took a sander to a small part and it would take a while to get rid of the fuzz and grooves.

I realize the mill would (hopefully) keep the cut even, say 1" on one end and 1" on the other end of the cut.

How would have ever thought a guy who cuts wood all day would find enjoyment in miling more wood in his spare time?!

Need to set up something where the sawdust won't matter, it sure makes a lot of very fine dust.
-Ralph

 

[fmueller]

I don't think you'll be able to totally get rid of the grooves and fuzz. I would think a well adjusted chain and slow constant speed would help. Then you just have to run them through a planer to smooth them out. Forget sanding. I used to run a chip N' saw mill down in Alabama and even the saw blades would leave grooves and fuzz especially when wood was forced through dull saws and feed speed was variable ( on Southern Yellow pine). Plus the different types of wood you're cutting will have different physical properties and react different to being cut, raised grain etc. I don't understand how your milling though. Are you just trying to cut slabs out with the chainsaw? I've been wanting to try some chainsaw carving myself with some redoak that got killed by Oak Wilt. Have you seen what those guys get for their stuff? Anyway I spoze somebody with an actual mill could tell you more. Have fun!

 

[Crofter]

Check the Granberg site. Lots of stuff on milling and ripping chain.

http://www.granberg.com/ripchain.html

 

[fmueller]

Forgot to add before you plane it you need to dry it down to 8 or10% moisture content or you'll have mucho problems with your planer.

 

[Mike Barcaskey]

If you want to get serious about milling lumber with a chainsaw, check out this site.
We have a Logosol running an 066.
Over a 9 foot or better log we can hold better than 1/16" of an inch, with a smooth finish not needing planing for framing or rough work.
Though it is slower than larger band or circular mills, we do not have a problem with waves in the cut. When milling spruce the hard knots will cause a bandsaw to cut off. The fixed bar on the saw stays on track.
Its great for weekend or specialty work, I tend to do alot of off species...sassafras, apple, hickory.. to sell

http://www.logosol.com/

Also check out www.forestryforum.com

alot of great info.

 

[rb_in_va]

Originally posted by Mike Barcaskey
If you want to get serious about milling lumber with a chainsaw, check out this site.

Ralph, if you want to get serious about milling, buy Ryan Willock's Woodmizer and use the 046 for felling the trees. I take it that you are just messing around with it right now. Can't you use the wood for heat, rather than just throwing it over the hill?

 

[IndyIan]

There is a milling group on yahoo groupsas well, tons of knowledge on milling with a chainsaw.

I have a 36" alaskan mill and I am very pleased with how accurately it cuts, no waves. I've got a 372 so I only cut softwoods and its fairly quick through 8-10" of white pine. Once I make a cant turning out boards goes fairly quickly.

I use oregons 3/8 .058 semi chisel ripping chain. The cut is quite smooth but for more speed or wider cuts I'd like to try full skip ripping chain sometime.

Ian