Modding the new MS201T - The truth inside

[2treeornot2tree]

Would like to see a video posted of this actually being performed ..

If you cant figure it out, you probably should be doing the work. Send it to Brad and he will do it for you! He was already nice enough to show everyone how to do it and post pictures. He basically took money out of his own pocket to share his knowledge with us so stop asking for more info. There is plenty of info there to do the work.

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[2treeornot2tree]

Boy my last response sure hit a nerve with dogdad. He sent me a pm saying he doesn't need my input and Brad can talk for himself.

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[dogdad]

Boy my last response sure hit a nerve with dogdad. He sent me a pm saying he doesn't need my input and Brad can talk for himself.

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And this was 2treeornot2tree response to me..quoted..."**** off"

Not good from a long time member..... my message was to the original thead starter, not you.... I'm sure he can reply if he wants and doesn't need you to answer for him...Grow up man.....

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[2treeornot2tree]

He has responded multiple times that he has provided enough info to complete the mod. You say I am a long time member you have been a member 3 years more then me. You acted like the *** first so you got the response you got. Don't like it. Go cry to your mommy.

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[Tor R]

Have done the carb and muffler modd. Both was very easy to do.

Questions for the advanced timings.
When we speak about shaving off the key, we speak about the key on the flywheel and CCW directions, right?
Some say 1/3 and some say 1/2 the key, what is recomended?

And what is the distance from the coil to the flywheel? (I had to renove the coil)

Thanks for any answers

 

[blsnelling]

Yes, on the key and the direction. If the crank were locked into position, you want to rotate the flywheel CCW. So, as the engine is running in a CCW direction, the magnets will get to the coil sooner than they did before. The key is cast into the flywheel itself. Don't go half. Only go 1/3. That'll get you real close. I haven't measured it, but it's probably 3/16"-1/4" at the outside of the flywheel. Use a business card to gap the coil to the flywheel.

 

[Tor R]

Thanks Brad for the fast responce.
The key seems to be around 3 mm.

The coil seems to have a little toleranse in the screws for a higher setting (means earlier ignition)
Is that also your experience?

And, it was first after the advanced timings that you ended up with carb setting 2 1/2 turn H, and around 1 setting L, right?

 

[blsnelling]

Set the L needle at 1 1/8. The H can be anywhere from 2 - 2 5/8. They've obviously made some changes for them to require that much difference in tune. The last ones I've done require less H needle.

This coil that I just replaced using the upgrade kit from Stihl was the first 201 coil I've ever removed.

 

[blsnelling]

Here's some good info from another thread.

Well...bought the new 201T today. I called Stihl and talked to their technical director Casey. He said there had been problems with the handle which had a "weak" spot but has since been changed . I was also told that Stihl had started doing the engine upgrade quite a while back. Both upgrades started at serial number 176569848. Mine is well above that. Also mentioned to me was the 200t had an aluminum muffler and the 201T has a stainless steel muffler which makes the two saws sound different. Using this for myself , not business purposes, gives me a year warranty, and buying a pack of oil moves it to a 2 year warranty. For me , it works.

There have been multiple changes made to the 201. Exactly what was changed at SN 176569848?

Ok...just got a phone call from Casey at stihl.....he says after more research....stihl has also changed the ignition module and carburetor which only improves acceleration @ cold starting, ..the serial number starts at 177543232.....and it will be months before the dealers get these saws with this change. The cylinder change started long time ago. Hope this helps.

Good info here. Thanks for sharing. The newest 201s do run much better than the earlier ones. At one point I was seeing 40%-50% gains with these simple mods. I'm now getting just under 20%. The earliest ones have been described as "unusable" by veteran arborist. The latest ones would not be near that bad. They're actually a decent running saw in stock form. But, when you can get 20% more for only a little work, why not?

 

[dogdad]

Here's some good info from another thread.




Good info here. Thanks for sharing. The newest 201s do run much better than the earlier ones. At one point I was seeing 40%-50% gains with these simple mods. I'm now getting just under 20%. The earliest ones have been described as "unusable" by veteran arborist. The latest ones would not be near that bad. They're actually a decent running saw in stock form. But, when you can get 20% more for only a little work, why not?

I don't know where I stand with the saw I bought today...not the oldest version, but not the newest evidently.,, but won't lose any sleep over it.

 

[blsnelling]

They all run fantastic after the mods I've described for them.

 

[SCHallenger]

They all run fantastic after the mods I've described for them.

I can testify to that!!

 

[mweba]

 

[goodaking]

I read threw the first 5 pages and did the muffler mod on two of my saws thanks to swing dude! But on my second 201 the chain will not stop spinning. I've tried turning the L crew out 1 turn and 1.5 turns out and tried to ajust the lA screw to slow the spinning chain. I either get the chain to stop for a little while and then it starts spinning again or the thing stalls out. what are your setting once you have made your muffler mod on the L And LA CRews?
Thanks
IAn

 

[blsnelling]

I set the L needle at 1 1/8 turns out. I usually have to back the idle stop just a little. If your chain doesn't stop until it stalls, then there must be an issue with the clutch.

 

[goodaking]

Thanks for the quick reply! I Can get the chain to stop for a little bit but then It starts spinning on occasion. Before I made the mod things were ok with this saw. comparing it to my other 201t that I did the muffler mod on. I have the l needle out almost 1.5. im going to try and play with it somemore tomorrow

 

[blsnelling]

You'll probably have poor throttle response at 1 1/2. It might even die when you go WOT. Many of the strato saws need a leanish L setting for good throttle response.

 

[goodaking]

Just got around to playing with the saw. My settings as of now, so I can use the saw on Tuesday are H needle 1.5 out. L needle .45 out and ajust LA until the chain stopped spinning. after cutting at high throttle the chain takes a little while to stop spinning. I think I still need to play around with it some more though

 

[dogdad]

They all run fantastic after the mods I've described for them.

After reading all these threads about the 201t mod, which some of the posts are over a year and a half....and some of your most recent says the newer saws are running better which brings me to the question of how much of a mod are you doing or suggesting to the newer 201t saws being bought presently? If the newer saws are running better than the older ones, stihl must have changed some things on the saw(?).

 

[blsnelling]

I can't tell you what all has been changed or when, but they do run better now than they did. They are at least a useable saw now from the factory. I'm still modding them the same, even with the newest "kit". Instead of getting 40%-50% gains, I'm now getting about 20% gains.