modifying a bad azzed saw

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spacemule

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Ok, being from Arkansas and smelling the profuse chicken houses constantly and trying to make Bubba's saw cut faster, I came up the notion of modifying one to run on methane gas.

Now, I know the btu's per pound are lower than gasoline, but I was thinking about just rerouting the transfer ports to go through a tube attached to the crankcase and directly injected into the head via an extra spark plug hole I'm going to drill with my shiny new titanium drill bit.

If you've ever smelled an Arkansas chicken, then you'll know that the methane will easily build a gazzilion pounds of pressure and easily blow its way into the combustion chamber. My question thusly is; which way should I angle the transfer hose? Should it be short, or should it be longer to allow for methane expansion and also cause the air molecules to straighten out as they wind through the tube? How do you all check for methane wash on the cylinder walls? You all do check your wash, don't you?
 
Short, straight, fat and then a long section.

Think of it as an expansion pipe for the transfers. Don't forget to add an extra line for N2O.

once together, get some castrol super clean for checking and washing the wash. once done, throw it in the over and set to 475 for an hour. Call me when it is done, i'll swing by WV and pick up some real moonshine.
 
Well Space, you are missing some key points, down yonder there ya'll gots some good hardwoods, you could set that sucke up for straigh stem power and not have to deal with the fumes at all!!! Then you don't have to read the wash, or worry about the zenor diode defibulating as well as getting some wicked RPM's out of her without the BLOW SH!T UP factor involved! Then you's and Bubba can be done before dinner and hit the hootch 'fore mamma comes home!
 
Freakingstang said:
Short, straight, fat
It is not!!

I forgot that I'll need some sort of check valve to keep the s?itty air in the combustion chamber and moving one way. I've got that old toilett in the front yard. I wonder if I ought to rob the flapper valve out of it and use that like a duckbill valve? Hmm.

You know, I think I may add a piston to the chain so it fires everytime it comes around the backside. I'll have to get a real skinny piston though so it'll fit in the kerf. Might have to feed the chickens a little moonshine to so I get some potent methane.
 
sawinredneck said:
Then you don't have to read the wash, or worry about the zenor diode defibulating as well as getting some wicked RPM's out of her without the BLOW SH!T UP !
Ah shucks, I ain't got to worry bout no defibulating, the flatulating is what concerns me.
 
I forgot to add the check valve, seriously..

Yeah, the piston in the sprocket nose hard tip is a great idea. should give it a double wammy effect.


BTW the cheapo stepped drill bits are better for the extra spark plug holes. If you do, get the self tapping ones, but I wouldn't use a plug.. I'd use a dual capacitor, inline with the piston in the sproket nose hard tip. Should effectively quadruple the s%hit factor.


And it has to be short then fat, followed by a skinny long restriction, or it just wont work like an arkansas design should be.

i prefer Duct tape for the capacitor insulation, though. has much better elctronic properties than a frog's skin.

Of coarse, you could always backfeed the methane through the intake tract?
 
Why not just build youre own capacator, little duct tape and some aluminum foil wraped in layers, good to go. I think another piston on the bar at the bottom near the sprocket, just to give it that extra pull when needed.
 
sawinredneck said:
Why not just build youre own capacator, little duct tape and some aluminum foil wraped in layers, good to go. I think another piston on the bar at the bottom near the sprocket, just to give it that extra pull when needed.
I thought capacators had to have copper. While I admit duct tape is the bonding solution of choice for dang nigh every self respecting Arkansan, I was thinking of going with something a little more refined. I'm going to get some baling wire and a drill and safety wire everything together!
 
spacemule said:
I thought capacators had to have copper. While I admit duct tape is the bonding solution of choice for dang nigh every self respecting Arkansan, I was thinking of going with something a little more refined. I'm going to get some baling wire and a drill and safety wire everything together!

5 paperclips and roll of ducttape should make one mighty capacitor... oh, and youl need to grow mullet before you can build that capacitor, but that should be no problem to you

:jester:
 
You mental geniuses have foegotten sumthen. How the flock (joke there boys) are you goen to mix the oil with fuel,, huh?? I dont think that the magic super syn oils mix with air???
 
Butch(OH) said:
You mental geniuses have foegotten sumthen. How the flock (joke there boys) are you goen to mix the oil with fuel,, huh?? I dont think that the magic super syn oils mix with air???

D'uh! you give the 2-stroke oil to chickens and pigs, thats how the methane will be self-lubing too!
 

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