Mods for dump trailers

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

captjack

ArboristSite Operative
. AS Supporting Member.
Joined
Apr 2, 2001
Messages
359
Reaction score
886
Location
centreville, md
I have a 14x7 twin piston dump- it's old but it's a freaking beast and has always dumped what ever i put in it - which is usually a lot more than it is rated for. The top (dump bed) is rusting out and I am planing a rebuild. Right now it has like three foot metal sides on it. I have a blank slate on design SO I am considering making the new bed shorter since I haul a lot of logs and its hard to load with grapple machine without dropping the first row of logs. I can put wood boards to make taller for brush or mulch etc. Was thinking about putting pole slots on the sides like a log trailer that are removable.
Any other ideas that you guys have done or thought about doing??
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0780.JPG
    IMG_0780.JPG
    1.6 MB
  • IMG_1067.JPG
    IMG_1067.JPG
    1.1 MB
  • IMG_0730.JPG
    IMG_0730.JPG
    820.2 KB
Got it...

When I load mine, I always load lighter logs on the bottom to take up the space so I'm not dropping the heavier ones into it. But I also use a small loader that I can almost roll the forks out and set them down. They dont fall far. 2' steel sides with a 2x12 on the top. I take one of those off while loading initially.
 
I thought about that but I want the side to be strong - Im not sure if they fold they would be as strong as I wanted - thats the problem with the tall sides now - they flex a lot - which brought me to the idea of tubes that are like the ones on the logging trailers -
 
I thnk one side folding down would be enough.
Maybe come up 12" and make the fold there put some tubing on both sides of the fold ,the added strength with the front to back tube will help out a bunch.
You could design a brace in the center or between the tires that a piece of tubing could drop in or raise after the side is folded up keeping it from bowing out.
Some stout posts for the rear gate would secure the ends.
Chad
 
Tubes are nice so you can see that you are piling the logs in straight so you get a decent load on. I have a dump trailer like yours and have to jump off and look to see that they are laying straight. It's much easier with my 4 wheeled log trailer with the tubes.
IMG_00000557.jpg IMG_00000868.jpg
 
I thought about that but I want the side to be strong - Im not sure if they fold they would be as strong as I wanted - thats the problem with the tall sides now - they flex a lot - which brought me to the idea of tubes that are like the ones on the logging trailers -

Cut sides off, put in stake pockets on the trailer. Setup sides with stake posts, and build a set of log bunks that register into the stake pockets. Don't just stick uprights in the stake pockets, it'll bend them.
Have 2 sets at the shop, one fits on an f450, the other for a GN trailer that was sold years ago.

If the sides are floppy, add metal. My big truck has 6ft tall sides, holds up fine. 1.5x3 uprights, 3/4" ply skin. (Was on sale for $22/sheet when I bought it!). 5/8 is about $30/sheet now.
 
if your worried about the floor taking abuse, and you don't use your dump for loading equipment alot. or never. put a sheet of UHMW in it, you can probably go down a gauge of steel and then throw like a 3/8" sheet in. depending where you are in the states the people should be able to do all one sheet at 7x14 no problem. (Picture below that's a sheet of 5x10 3/8" UHMW)

if i was to ever build or get a custom dump made i would put like 12" sides, solid or folding and then stake pockets for going up, there's enough times with hauling mulch or some firewood it would be nice to have a bit more height, ohh and a must from using a couple others buddies trailers, on the tarp make sure that you use a piece of tube, and then put 2 dogs at the back the the tube fits into that way you can get your tarp tight, and your not having a million bungie cords trying to hold it down and secure. photo is of my dump trailer, you can see the tube there in the tarp, it just has some washers welded on the end's and then it hooks into the back here.

One thing i did add too on my car trailer, that i would like to do to this dump is reverse lights, if your a little crafty on the wiring, or having to redo it, get the Grote Stop/Turn/Tail Reverse lights.
http://www.grote.com/family/6-inch-...egrated-back-up-light/?prodcat=stop-tail-turn

WP_20161015_004.jpg
 
UMHW is $$$$$ stuff though. I bought a 1ftx10ft, 1/8" thick piece a while back. Cost me just under $100. I can get a 4x10ft sheet of 1/8" steel for about $250!
 
UMHW is $$$$$ stuff though. I bought a 1ftx10ft, 1/8" thick piece a while back. Cost me just under $100. I can get a 4x10ft sheet of 1/8" sheet for about $250!

i just got a buddy in town here one for his dump trailer. 6x10 sheet of 3/8" welded together for all one sheet and it was $500. it's expensive stuff. but you have to remember if your a guy that hauls logs, or with this guy he has a landscaping business, and he has 1", and 2" rocks, as well gravel and Mulch in it daily it saves him replacing the floor, or if you go all out floor and sides
 
Better off to floor it with 3/16" and not worry about it.

As far as holes, just cut out a square and weld in a patch.
 
I have some holes in my dump trailer and that would likely be cheaper and definitely easier than fixing the steel. And wood would slide out better. I haul scrap steel in it though and that would not be good.
scrap steel is still fine in it. it won't cut up like plywood will, it will mark it but not cut right through it. send me your size of your dump trailer and i can get you a quote on a liner. Mine i just put 6 bolts up front and that's all that holds it in. so really if you wanted too, if you knew you where hauling steel you could take it out. But i wouldn't worry too much

Better off to floor it with 3/16" and not worry about it.

As far as holes, just cut out a square and weld in a patch.

I would price out a 4x8 sheet of 3/16" and weight difference as well. you will take back some of your hauling capacity. and fuel mileage when you haul empty.
 
7.6lbs per foot, so a 4x8 sheet is about 240lbs. 1/8 is 5lbs, so 160lbs. Only 80lb difference per sheet. On a std 8x12ft flatbed that's around 240lbs difference.
 
7.6lbs per foot, so a 4x8 sheet is about 240lbs. 1/8 is 5lbs, so 160lbs. Only 80lb difference per sheet. On a std 8x12ft flatbed that's around 240lbs difference.

alright so if you go to a 1/8" floor with a 3/8" UHMW you save yourself 20lbs. a sheet of 3/8" 4x8 is just shy of 60lbs. now in a 5x10 trailer that's peanuts. but when you get into 7x14, or 7x16 trailer you save proably around 200lbs maybe, more in larger dump trailers. plus things don't stick when you dump it

I have been looking at trying to get a 1/2 sheet(4x8 sheet is 80lbs) and making it the floor instead of using metal underneath only thing is the you could really only use it as a dump and not as an equipment hauler.
 
I have this dump truck liner in mine now - Its there cause the floor is rusted out - I have been really abusive about dropping stuff in it and this stuff is the tits. Stuff slides out like its on ice. Not sure its going back in when I rebuild it - I bought it with it in there. Unknown.jpeg
 
I have this dump truck liner in mine now - Its there cause the floor is rusted out - I have been really abusive about dropping stuff in it and this stuff is the tits. Stuff slides out like its on ice. Not sure its going back in when I rebuild it - I bought it with it in there. View attachment 534784

I have seen and done a couple of rebuilds. if you speak with somone that installs them. take that thing out carefully. and get them to put it back in a good installer can have that thing back in. in under 4 hours it's worth the money in the long run. or if you like it so much. sell that one on swap and flops / Craigslist / Kijiji and get one that goes floor and full sides?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top