More oil wanted

[Andrew96]

Guys, I cut some dry stuff this past weekend and have now cleaned up all the equipment. I'm not pleased with the amount of bar oil on the cutting side of the bar/tip, or sprocket end (I scraped dust out of the cutting side bar groove...not goo like the top). It kind of looked dry when I was cutting..but kept using oil...almost a full tank to a tank of fuel (yes..it's turned up to max). Overall, the assembly used 3.5 liters of bar oil to 10 liters of fuel for a muliple day milling session.
I've read about the Australian HO oil pump for my 660 but also that it 'only' adds 20% or so additional flow. So..the question is...should I upgrade to a HO pump, Add an aux oiler at the tip, or both (only use the tip tank when required). I think on my short 36" bar, I only have the problem on dry stuff but who knows. I'm using Stihl medium oil but since it looks like a positive displacement pump...it shouldn't matter what the viscosity is. I feel it's kind of a tough call...the bar is not 'really long' to require an aux oiler...yet it's running too dry in dry wood. Comments?

 

[htpd43]

i by no means consider myself a sawyer, but i do read alot and have some experienced friends. from what i've been reading on this site, it seems that the material you are cutting is going to play a role in the auxiliary oiler decision. as in are you cutting soft or hard wood? it also seems that the recomendation is to start to use an auxiliary oiler with a 36" or bigger bar.
hope that helps.

 

[mtngun]

So..the question is...should I upgrade to a HO pump, Add an aux oiler at the tip, or both (only use the tip tank when required).

Aux oiler. It is more efficient because it places the oil where it does the most good. Uses less oil, too.

Most of the saw's bar oil is flung off at the nose.

I continue to fill the saw with oil in addition to using the aux oiler, but only because I'm concerned that running the oil pump dry may damage it. Otherwise, the aux oiler would be all that is required.

 

[BlueRider]

The teeth on a chainsaw are designed to cut green wood and do not work very well on dry wood. Before you worry about the oil out put of your saw I would wait and see how it works on a freshly felled tree.

 

[BobL]

Guys, I cut some dry stuff this past weekend and have now cleaned up all the equipment. I'm not pleased with the amount of bar oil on the cutting side of the bar/tip, or sprocket end (I scraped dust out of the cutting side bar groove...not goo like the top). It kind of looked dry when I was cutting..but kept using oil...almost a full tank to a tank of fuel (yes..it's turned up to max). Overall, the assembly used 3.5 liters of bar oil to 10 liters of fuel for a muliple day milling session.
I've read about the Australian HO oil pump for my 660 but also that it 'only' adds 20% or so additional flow. So..the question is...should I upgrade to a HO pump, Add an aux oiler at the tip, or both (only use the tip tank when required). I think on my short 36" bar, I only have the problem on dry stuff but who knows. I'm using Stihl medium oil but since it looks like a positive displacement pump...it shouldn't matter what the viscosity is. I feel it's kind of a tough call...the bar is not 'really long' to require an aux oiler...yet it's running too dry in dry wood. Comments?

The 20% more oil on the Aussie 660 is almost all thrown off at the bar nose so it's a waste of oil. Like mtngun says aux oiler puts the oil right where it's needed.

On dry Aussie hardwood I use an Aux oiler even when using a 20" bar and always use both oilers.

 

[Andrew96]

Well...that's that then. I'll pass on the HO pump mods since I was quite pleased with how things went in wet wood. It was the dry wood that didn't go well. Putting the oil in the 'right spot' is the key. Yesterday I got to 'play' with my mill on the workbench while I work out an oiler for the tip. I think that way I can run it when the wood is dry...maybe pass on it when the wood is nice and wet.
Thanks for your comments.