more questions from a rookie

[timberturner]

okay, you guys have been a load of help previously, so here goes

1. pros and cons of a chainsaw mill that you slide down the 2 x 4 nailed to the log ( do they work pretty good) or do you have problems with the knots protruding

2. has anyone used a log wizard attachment

3. is the stihl 066 a great tool for heavy use milling

i've heard rec's to modify the exhaust of some of the bigger stihls, why is that and what's involved

also, how fast can you convert over to the ripping chain and how is the ripping chain different

thanks a mill

tom

 

[Newfie]

Tom,

I like my alaskan mill, Hot and dusty some days but the finished product is worth it in my opinion especially considering the investment.

Saw all you brunches flush to the trunk when limbing the tree. Sometimes I will saw back a particularly knobby area to bring it into round with the trunk but not really necessary. The slabbing brackets that you can buy(provide your own 2 by's) are adjustable for width depending on your log. I haven't run into a problem yet except maybe on a couple of monster logs but I worked around the width limitations with sucess.

Lots of guys make there own ripping chain, lots of guys buy it pre-ground. I use the Bailey's which is just carlton chain (or maybe sandvik, can't remember right now). I like the way it works, just got it keep it sharp.

 

[sedanman]

I'll tackle one part of this question and leave the rest for the other guys. The reason for exhaust modifacation is partly due to newer saws having restricted EPA mufflers. The second part is the big SH1T EATING GRIN that comes along with the extra power.

 

[slabberman]

G'day Tom,

Yep, lop any branch stubs off prior to putting the rails on. You could also use something like a 12x2 with aluminium angle running down each side, if you dont have the Granberg bracket kit.
Have you heard of Will Malloffs book, Chainsaw Lumbermaking? Long out of print (1982) but absolutely chocka of good info if your starting out. I saw 2 the other day via bibliofind.com, one was 175, the other 380!!! %$#!@ me. Maybe your local library can source you a copy to read. It really would be worth the effort.
Never used the log wizard, so no comment there.
The 066 is a great saw. I guess it depends on how big the logs are you will be milling, and how much you will be using it. If your slabbing, then I would say get the most cc's you can possibly afford. 084, 088, 090 etc (not sure on the Husky equivalents).
If your cutting dimension timber like 2x4's etc, from logs @ the 36in size, then I think the 066 would be fine.
There are plenty of threads here re muffler mods. Do a search, to answer all your questions on that.
OK, now the ripping chain. Normal crosscut chain has a ground angle (looking down from the top) of around 30deg. Ripping chain has the angle ground out to anywhere from 10deg, to 0deg. This chain must not be used for cross cutting, ie normal chainsaw cuts, across the grain. The kickback potential is massive - not if, when. Ripping chain is for cuts with the grain.
Ideally you will have 2 saws, one set up for the ripping, and one (smaller probably) with normal chain for the prep work. Otherwise you are going to have to take the bar and mill off, and change chains when you need the other saw for a job - time consuming!
Hope this helps.
Cheers
Charlie.

 

[Tom Dunlap]

I've got a copy of "The Book" Glad to know that it's worth that much. If I ever need some quick money, I'll just photocopy the whole thing and sell the original.

Here are some bookmarks that might be relevant:

Start here:
http://www.egroups.com/messages/milling


http://users.penn.com/~zigbug/

http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles/tresl39.html
http://sawmillmag.com/

This is a buddy who does all of my milling. No sense in me going through too much work. http://logs-to-lumber.com/


I have a large white oak that will become the new decking on my tandem trailer.

Tom