Selling my old MS250 and thinking of getting an MS261. Can I get some advice?

[Hundred Acre Wood]

What do you mean by paying attention to what the OP said/needs????

By about Post #10 of any of these threads, guys always get around to suggesting an extra 10 or 20 cc's.

No one wants to suggest a MS500?

Yet.

Roy

I know, I know. Who's the buffoon who wants to stay on topic? This guy!



The answer is usually in the first 5 posts, the next 5 posts are people being funny, and the next 50 posts are anger, hatred, and hostility towards each other's recommendations. Don't go past the first page is usually good advice. Especially on this forum.

But yes. Everyone needs a 500i. I've got one and you should too!

 

[irhunter]

It is odd that this thread has not even gotten to the Husky v. Stihl posts!

It is about time for someone to suggest a 346 or 372 or 288!

Roy

 

[dmb2613]

You've never ran a 400, or you wouldn't be suggesting the 362. It's faults are numerous, including stihls reasons for it still being made.

The 400 is a great saw, as is the 362
So could you please tell me some of the faults of the 362 .
Thank you David

 

[Hundred Acre Wood]

Hold on, let me get some popcorn. This is the complete off-topic fight we've been waiting for.

 

[Amin_1992]

Well this MS261 with a 20" bar is awesome. Night and day over the MS250!

However, I am noticing the 20" bar is really front heavy. The saw doesnt even sit flat on a benchtop but instead teeters back and forth like a see-saw... I'm not having any power issues though.

I wish I had realized that bar lengths arent universal. The 18" bar on a 261 is like 2" longer than the 18" bar on a 250! Had I known that I probably would have bought the 18" bar...

I am curious of the power issue with a 20" on a 261 that people talk about though. I ran an 18" on an MS250 - how would the power compare there to running a 20" bar on an MS261? I would assume even with the 20" bar the MS261 would deliver more power?

The 250 is 45cc / 3.0 HP while the 261 is 50cc / 4.0 HP... thanks all

 

[Hundred Acre Wood]

Well this MS261 with a 20" bar is awesome. Night and day over the MS250!

However, I am noticing the 20" bar is really front heavy. The saw doesnt even sit flat on a benchtop but instead teeters back and forth like a see-saw... I'm not having any power issues though.

I wish I had realized that bar lengths arent universal. The 18" bar on a 261 is like 2" longer than the 18" bar on a 250! Had I known that I probably would have bought the 18" bar...

I am curious of the power issue with a 20" on a 261 that people talk about though. I ran an 18" on an MS250 - how would the power compare there to running a 20" bar on an MS261? I would assume even with the 20" bar the MS261 would deliver more power?

The 250 is 45cc / 3.0 HP while the 261 is 50cc / 4.0 HP... thanks all

As you noted, 261 is a professional saw, more powerful more durable.

But when people talk about power, they're often talking about cutting power meaning cutting perfomance. That's a function of many things, including powerhead HP/torque, bar length, chain cutter type, wood, and cutting style/technique. Each of those has an impact on cutting performance.

Hypothetical example: A 261 with a 20" bar running 3/8 full chisel in soft pine might cut just as fast as a 261 with a 16" bar running .325 narrow kerf in hardwood. Different combinations can yield similar performance results. On the other hand, run that 20" setup buried in hardwood and you wouldn't be very pleased. Run that 16" setup in softwood and you're wasting the saws potential.

 

[Amin_1992]

Thanks again for the reply buddy.

I guess my question is, if dealing with the same log (oak hardwood) is a 261 with a 20" bar as or more powerful as a 250 with an 18" bar? Say all factors are the same for the chain: 325, semi chisel , etc

 

[irhunter]

I ran an 18" on an MS250 - how would the power compare there to running a 20" bar on an MS261? I would assume even with the 20" bar the MS261 would deliver more power?

Are both the 250 and 261 bars running .325 chain?

If you are running .325 chain on the MS261, you will be happier than you were with the MS250...regardless whether you are using a 16, 18, or 20-inch bar. I would not worry too much about power figures or other peoples' opinions.

If, after many tanks of gas, you feel the 20" bar is too heavy on the 261, buy a lighter bar...either 20" light or 18". If you sell the 250, it will be nice to have two bars for the 261, anyway...for when you get your bar pinched and would rather saw your way out than chop.

Roy

 

[irhunter]

if dealing with the same log (oak hardwood) is a 261 with a 20" bar as or more powerful as a 250 with an 18" bar? Say all factors are the same for the chain: 325, semi chisel , etc

The 261 will feel "more powerful."

 

[Amin_1992]

Thanks @irhunter. Yup running 325 chain on both, but I just sold the MS250 to pay toward the MS261. Fair assessment. I'll break her in and if she still doesn't feel right, I'll buy the 18" bar and chain. Thanks!

 

[Hundred Acre Wood]

Thanks again for the reply buddy.

I guess my question is, if dealing with the same log (oak hardwood) is a 261 with a 20" bar as or more powerful as a 250 with an 18" bar? Say all factors are the same for the chain: 325, semi chisel , etc

It's a 33% increase in horsepower from the 250 to the 261. The 261 is surely going to feel more powerful even with both bars fully buried in hardwood.

But does it feel powerful enough? I personally like to know that I can bury my saws in hardwood and not have to baby it through a cut. So I tend towards the smaller bar sizes for each powerhead because I have multiple saws. I have an old 034 (very similar HP as the modern 261) and I run a 16" bar with .325 narrow kerf full chisel. It's a fantastic firewood and small felling saw because it blasts through anything up to its full bar length.

Different people have different needs/styles/cutting techniques. Only you can decide what's right for you.

 

[Amin_1992]

Thanks @Hundred Acre Wood . I'm going to go home tonight and measure some logs that came from the widest Oak on our property (died unfortunately) and see if the 18" bar would cut it knowing now that it's longer than the 18" 250 bar... I'll go from there. I guess I could always buy both and just use the 20" when needed right? No harm in swapping bar sizes and chains when required?

 

[Hundred Acre Wood]

Thanks @Hundred Acre Wood . I'm going to go home tonight and measure some logs that came from the widest Oak on our property (died unfortunately) and see if the 18" bar would cut it knowing now that it's longer than the 18" 250 bar... I'll go from there. I guess I could always buy both and just use the 20" when needed right? No harm in swapping bar sizes and chains when required?

Well you can cut a ~32" tree with a ~16" bar if you really needed to...

Many people who have multiple saws have multiple bars and chains. I know I do. You can swap all you want, it's only time and money. ;-)

I'd get some experience with the 20" bar first. Find out what YOU like.

 

[Amin_1992]

Very true. I've cut many large diameter trees with my MS250 with around 16" of useable bar. Call me crazy though but I hate having to cut one side then the other.

I much rather use a 20" bar and be a bit slower or underpowered and do it in 1 go then have to switch sides over and over again. Just my take though.

Will stick with the 20" for a bit and then go from there Thanks again!

 

[sean donato]

Very true. I've cut many large diameter trees with my MS250 with around 16" of useable bar. Call me crazy though but I hate having to cut one side then the other.

I much rather use a 20" bar and be a bit slower or underpowered and do it in 1 go then have to switch sides over and over again. Just my take though.

Will stick with the 20" for a bit and then go from there Thanks again!

You only say that till you have to chase the back cut, or some other situation necessitates quick cuts. I'd rather have to take 2 bits and not have to baby a saw, then worry about taking too big a bite and babysittiing. the saw. Bar size and out put should be matched pretty closely. Once your at the max, you run out of steam quick.

 

[Hatchville Homesteader]

You should get a 261 with an adjustable carb. If you want a saw for life I would go with a standard carb. You can service it yourself and don’t have to worry about the price or availability of m-tronic components. They are all over the shelves right now due to the m-tronic shortage.

They pull a 20” bar wonderfully if you do a simple muffler mod.

Pro saws are the way to go. Buy once cry once and be done with it.

The bars and chains are not compatible

 

[Kenskip1]

My local dealer will sell you a 261 however he will only sell it with a safety chain .I asked if I could get a RS in 3/8 on a 20 inch bar and chain but was told that this was not recommended. The price was a contributing factor so I purchased a Echo CS 590, got the 3/8 chain and an extra one for a more reasonable price.

 

[Wood Doctor]

The 261 will feel "more powerful."

But, is it worth the $400 or more higher price? I tend to doubt that. Just MHO.

 

[irhunter]

But, is it worth the $400 or more higher price? I tend to doubt that. Just MHO.

Well, many people buy a MS261 rather than a MS250. I suspect, most who do are not primarily worried about "power" (or, they would be buying a MS291). I suspect, they mostly are paying $300 extra for the various pro-saw benefits.

Roy

 

[Parkerpusher]

If you want a 261 and not another 250 then by all means go for it. A pro 50cc saw will run a 20” bar just fine.