More Rope

[TREETX]

More rope!

I kinda have a rope fetish. I tend to buy more than I need looking for something newer and better.

Is the fly really worth while?? Several of the european guys said, "Great concept but really a 1st generation rope. Too much milking...."

These are the same people who recommended the Edelrid Arborist lines http://www.freeworker.de/store/pd14...s=search0_EQ_20 m. mit vernähtem Endauge_AND_{EOL}&categoryId=1

I do know that this line won't last long. After just 3 weeks of work, with the newFC, it shows heavy wear. It is just not as strong or sturdy as xtc or bluestreak.

Can you footlock the fly ok?? Does it start to wear easily as well??

Thanks

 

[tjk]

The fly is a little bouncy for footlocking, but has real good friction and of course the wieght is great. I use the fly mostly as an acsending line. I feel to has too much surface friction and my hitch does not move as freely as I like. For climbing I perfer something with a little more wax.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

I've seen Fly that has been actively used for more then half a year, and it still looks great.

Milks? so what, trim the hend.

I climbed on it out in CA on Jerry B's project and it is great.

The real benni is when you need real long hanks, at 120ft it's around 1# lighter then 1/2 in NER blue stuff. The smaller dia and harder lay realy does make it easier to pull through the tree. Being less dynamic there is less bungy effect when near the end.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

The Fly is a pleasure to climb on, light , thin, easy to pull around. I don't see going back to 1/2" climbing line any time soon. I'm sure the rope itself could be improved on, the real issue is it's smaller diameter, that's why its light.
It won't last as long as a real arborist rope and is therefore more expensive to use, but well worth it, IMO.

 

[Froggy]

Reply to the Fly

This rope is 7/16 right? Is it worth getting for a primary climbing line? To use in mechanical devices and to use in natural crotches. I read some where that you should only use this Fly in mechanical devices. I bought a sherrills rope for my primary climbing line. I could use it for rigging and use the fly for climbing. I really need to know if it's worth the beans you'll be putting into it. I really want this rope, but I guess I learned from the old school on buying rope. Got to know what your getting. Thnaks,BB

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

Fly Tech Data Sheet

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

From sheet:

Recommended D/d* ratio is 8:1 (Fly)
(* Sheave Diameter to Rope Diameter)

That would be 4" and would be same for frictional redirects (limb) as nonfrictional redirects (pulley) and really put FC in question?




:alien:

 

[Stumper]

Ken , it is 7/16" rope so that would mean a 3.5 " sheave for 8/1.
I agree that working ropes over tight radii is a practice we don't give enough thought to. Our safety factors are large enough to keep us out of big trouble apparrently but rope dynamics being what they are, we are undoubtably causing extra wear on the ropes-much of it unseen and hard to detect.

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

Well that is a little better;

Would you then use fly thru a 1" bight on FS?

i've brought this up about 1/2" line being quoted as needing 2" (4/1 bend ratio); but the concensus here seemed to be that it was okay to crank 1/2" loaded (bodyweight only) through a 1" bight. My examinations have alwyas been if i wouldn't load 5x+ my bodyweight on rig, i don't go or something like that. It works in other thumb ruled scenarios, but was 'vetoed' on this point.....

It seems that the fly (and other static lines) should require a softer angle bight (larger limbs/pulleys to ride); just like line of a much larger diameter.

For with such stiffness, the compressed fibres(non load pulling) on the inside of the ropes arc around a bight, would be more in number, thereby placing a larger, leveraged load on the outside fibres of the arc of the line/ per movement of it's straight/ not bent loaded fibres.

i think that the action on compressed fibres not carrying load at the inside of the arc, leveraging more load to the outside fibres, while at the same time making them move farther with that load around the arc compounds the act of loading and cranking line around a tight bight.

i think the exact same thing happens, in a hinge that delivers to face even though C.o.B. pulls to the side. The compressed fibres under the weight don't pull (till spar tries to twist ,faces meet, or weight comes off those fibres), only the stretched fibres pull on opposite side of lean. Thereby enacting triangle hinge strategies, in even the most 'normal' strip hinge. For it is all the same, only the stretched fibres pull, not the compressed ones, those at the outer curve of the arc away from pull, are most leveraged for control of the pull (equal and opposite reaction deal) in either scenario. Whether it be arching rope fibre, or arching wood fibre; it would all be exactly the same but diffrent!

Lil'mad scientist,
Back to the lab........
in the trees.........
Watching and listening for the secrets,
and binding commonalities;
Be Safe......
-KC



:alien:

 

[Tim Gardner]

So, with what has been discussed above does that mean down grading a climbing line to a lowering line increases the chance of rope failure while rigging? There should be significant damage done to a rope after six to 12 months of climbing with a FC fitted with a one inch diameter sheave according to the above discussion. Lowering lines are subjected to much larger loads than a climbing line ever will or should be.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

The reasoning by those who use thight bend radius gear is that clibers put such a small persentage of the tensil on the line that it is not so bad as in gigging where we push the WLL on a regular basis (some folk push the tensil regularly).

The rope is 7000# MBS, 700# WLL and the climber is 200# (well, I'm pushing 300# with my gear on, which is why I don't SRT much.)

My FC gives me near 2 in bend radius, I've quetioned the wisdom of using a Rope Guide, and everyone poo-poo's my concerns. Even though I'm not talking about the loading but the everyday wear and tear on the rope.

I've sent an eamil to NER asking about it, maybe I'll get an answer.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

From Howard at NER

Good Morning John Paul,

The 8:1 ratio is a standard ratio recomendation from the Cordage Institue that you see with just about every rope with the exceptions of kevlar and technora ropes. It's the same recommendation you'll see with Safety Blue and High Vee so yes, The Fly is fine and is recommended to be used with rope guides and friction savers.

Hope that helps.

Howard

on the new high temp tress cord

You've heard correctly. We've been field testing a high temp friction cord for awhile.

The big issue we've been facing is that all of the high temperature fibers available
today are very expensive so we're trying to make sure that the cord will last...we're
trying not to make an expensive cord that only last a couple of months.

Howard

 

[NickfromWI]

Norex....

I know West Marine has been selling a heat resistant double braid with a Vectran core and a cover of Norex and Technora. 10mm costs somewhere like 6.00/ft! Youch! But if it lasts a long time, and functions to my liking, I'd buy it.
I wonder if this is the same stuff, or if there is something different in the works?

love
nick

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

This is that vectran/poly that they were showing around at the treehouse project. I think the core is poly too. Suposed to be able to take competition level rappels and just fuzz up a bit.

Oh, you were still sleeping then since you did not go to breakfast.