MS 180C

[omas]

Hello, I was hoping someone could help me out. I'm not technically minded, but I'm trying to educate myself by attempting to get an older/neglected Stihl MS 180c working. After years of sitting, I wasn't able to get the chainsaw started and so after checking the gas filter which seemed fine, I bought a cheap carb from Amazon. With the new carb installed, I'm able to get it started and it will run and rev great for about a minute or two, but if I don't keep giving it some gas while it's idling it will die and then I will be unable to get it started again for about a day or so. Not sure what's going on here. Could the problem be the cheap carb? Should I purchase an OEM carb (or attempt to clean original carb) and go from there? Thanks for any help.

 

[promechanic]

The Chinese carbs are hit or miss, but the fixed jet carbs that come on the saws aren't great either. How did you adjust the carb after you installed it?

 

[SteveSr]

Hello, I was hoping someone could help me out. I'm not technically minded, but I'm trying to educate myself by attempting to get an older/neglected Stihl MS 180c working. After years of sitting, I wasn't able to get the chainsaw started and so after checking the gas filter which seemed fine, I bought a cheap carb from Amazon. With the new carb installed, I'm able to get it started and it will run and rev great for about a minute or two, but if I don't keep giving it some gas while it's idling it will die and then I will be unable to get it started again for about a day or so. Not sure what's going on here. Could the problem be the cheap carb? Should I purchase an OEM carb (or attempt to clean original carb) and go from there? Thanks for any help.

Before spending more money pull the muffler and inspect for piston damage and burn the spark screen clean with a torch.

 

[kevin j]

Tank vent? loosen the fuel cap so it can get air see if it runs for longer than a minute

 

[KostasVolos]

It seems that the chi carb needs some tuning to be done .
But nevertheless ...
Better follow the fuel .

Remove the fan housing ( flywheel cover ) and after removing the air intake and carb ,remove the fuel tank .
Clean and inspect the tank itself ,
the tank vent valve ( a small greenish-bluish silicone thingy ) and the fuel hose.
Replace the fuel filter with a new clean one ,if you haven't already.
Clogged Stihl fuel filters look pretty fine to an eye inspection.

Disassemble the STOCK carb and thoroughly clean the carb passages with a carb cleaning spray ( fixed idle jet passage ,needle passage ,pump passages ).Remove the fixed main jet and clean it.Do the same with needle and fuel strainer /filter .
Inspect the diaphragms and their gaskets and replace if needed.
Check for free movement and position of choke and throttle "butterflies" .

Lastly,replace the spark plug with a new one.

On a side note :
Myself thinks that the stock carb is pretty reliable and easy to maintain .And can be modded for
compensating to the lean situation a muffler mod brings in .In other words,if you do a mm ,there's no need for an adjustable carb .
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The stock carb can be modified for a richer fuel ,with either of the three ways following or a combination of them :

A ) By adjusting the metering lever higher,to bring even with
carb machined face ( gasket seat ).Use a cash card as a "guide".

B ) By replacing the fixed main jet with a larger size one -usually two sizes ( i.e for stock 0.43 mm replace with a 0.45 mm one ) .

C ) By cancelling the Intellicarb function .Seal the "snorkel" tube of the carb with epoxy/silicone and drill one 1mm hole further down the snorkel.Now,the metering diaphragm is referenced to atm.pressure and not to the vacuum of the intake.

Attached some info ,which might help you .

Cheers!

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Did you buy an adjustable carb or the non-adjustable one? I always buy the fully adjustable one when I'm changing carbs even if I have to do a few modifications to the saw.

 

[HarleyT]

I would take a close look at the fuel line first.