Ms 260 Pro, How Does It Sound?

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Hi, can you please share your feed back with how this saw sounds regarding how it’s tuned? It’s the saw I have just put the new piston and rings in and rebuilt. Slight bog initially, is this because of the new piston ? Also I don’t hear 4 stroking? I guess when it’s broken in / had a few tanks through it and I retune it, it will clean up in terms of crispness in throttle response? I’d imagine it’s all still tight in there



Idle 2800 Max RPM 13,500



Followed the instructions on tuning using the manual.

 

[Andyshine77]

The sound doesn't translate well at full throttle, but my guess is maybe a little lean on the H. And I would say the L needs work to help the not so great acceleration. The first part of this video may help you dial in the L. Overall the saw sounds nice and healthy, just as a 260 should, just some fine tuning is needed.[emoji106]

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

The sound doesn't translate well at full throttle, but my guess is maybe a little lean on the H. And I would say the L needs work to help the not so great acceleration. The first part of this video may help you dial in the L. Overall the saw sounds nice and healthy, just as a 260 should, just some fine tuning is needed.[emoji106]

Yours sounds much nicer than mine! Thanks for the advice

I have the high screw adjusted to get to 13,500, so would you richer it up? Bring it down to 12,500 say? The manual says go to 14,000 though?

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Ok wow, now I’m confused!!! The high is turned right in, maybe 1/5th turn out?!. that’s what it took to get it to 13,500

Low is 1 1/2 turns out

Temp is 91f / 33c

 

[Andyshine77]

Like I said I'm not there so really can't say for sure, but from what I can tell it sounds a little lean, as I can't make out any burble. But again we're dealing with sound from a recording. 13,500 should be safe, but when you get the saw nice and hot from cutting that number will change. I say set it to 13,000 and see how she goes. When you learn how a saw should sound, the tachometer will likely sit in the tool box most of the time.[emoji6]

Do note that the factory settings are just basic guidelines, each saw will be a bit different.

 

[Andyshine77]

Ok wow, now I’m confused!!! The high is turned right in, maybe 1/5th turn out?!. that’s what it took to get it to 13,500

Low is 1 1/2 turns out

Temp is 91f / 33c

Some carbs are like that, and it's running in hot weather so it requires less fuel. This is also why I don't like guys searching for a number, some saws just don't want to spin that fast. Try tuning to where you hear the saw burble a bit at full throttle, than check your rpm. Again all the numbers are just guidelines, they're not set in stone.

 

[huskihl]

1/4 turn out on the h screw probably fixes both issues

 

[93Dakman!]

I normally, after a rebuild set both the H and L to 1 1/2 turns out. Then I set the H by revving it up and opening or closing the H needle until it is just barely warbbeling, or 4 stroking as it's called, then I give it about another 1/8th turn out.

Then I go down to the L and idle screw. Open or close the idle screw until it idles. Then start adjusing the L. Open the L until it almost dies, then count the number of turns it takes to screw the needle in until it almost dies; set the L right in the middle of that number. Is the chain spinning at this setting? Ok, then back the idle screw out until it stops spinning, now reset the L screw the same was as before (open till it dies, count turns closed till dies, set in the middle). Rev it to wide open amd confirm the H is still set correct. Let it idle, does it idle fine? No chain spinning during idle? If you pick it up after idling for an extended period and give it the gas and it falls on its face, you may have the L open too much, turn it in just a tad.

This is all done on a properly broke in, warm engine.

 

[Thommo]

Sounds slightly lean to me. I would take low and high out a 1/16 of a turn and see how it sounds

 

[93Dakman!]

I've never used a tach. I've never trashed a saw due to a too lean, too rich or over Rev situation using the method I described above.

 

[Andyshine77]

1/4 turn out on the h screw probably fixes both issues

Probably, both jets to in fact work together, too lean on the H will cause poor acceleration just like having the L too lean.[emoji106]

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Thank you all so friggin much. Okk I did it all again. Please let me know

Max rpm for a good 4 stroking was like 9,500 - 10,000 rpm.. seems low but it’s a new piston. Will tune in wood when I get a chance

 

[82F100SWB]

Have you put a kit in the carb? Not uncommon for dried out diaghphrams to cause a very rich condition,
You are definitely lean on the L.
This one is not stock, but the initial acceleration off of idle on yours should be nearly as snappy:

We won't talk about peak or in the cut rpm on that one... LOL

I find on a stock saw 13,200-13,500 is about where they pull the best, 14K isn't as torquey.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Have you put a kit in the carb? Not uncommon for dried out diaghphrams to cause a very rich condition,
You are definitely lean on the L.
This one is not stock, but the initial acceleration off of idle on yours should be nearly as snappy:

We won't talk about peak or in the cut rpm on that one... LOL

I find on a stock saw 13,200-13,500 is about where they pull the best, 14K isn't as torquey.

Bahah WTF, it was as if your video was in fast forward lol that’s amazing. Yes, new carb kit and adjusted metering lever. Did you see my second video I uploaded just above your comment? Great to hear your take second time around

 

[Andyshine77]

Again hard to tell exactly, but I think the L is still off. Try turning in the L until the saw starts starving for fuel, than back it off about 1/4 of a turn, than check for acceleration.

How long are you keeping the saw at full throttle to get your rpm reading? Don't be afraid of holding it open for a few seconds, that will give you a more accurate reading. 10,000 rpm is probably really too rich for that saw, but again I can't exactly tell from the sound, maybe need better sound on my phone lol.[emoji111]

 

[Andyshine77]

Have you put a kit in the carb? Not uncommon for dried out diaghphrams to cause a very rich condition,
You are definitely lean on the L.
This one is not stock, but the initial acceleration off of idle on yours should be nearly as snappy:

We won't talk about peak or in the cut rpm on that one... LOL

I find on a stock saw 13,200-13,500 is about where they pull the best, 14K isn't as torquey.

Should be better, but to me saws with stock mufflers always doing sluggish.[emoji6]

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Again hard to tell exactly, but I think the L is still off. Try turning in the L until the saw starts starving for fuel, than back it off about 1/4 of a turn, than check for acceleration.

How long are you keeping the saw at full throttle to get your rpm reading? Don't be afraid of holding it open for a few seconds, that will give you a more accurate reading. 10,000 rpm is probably really too rich for that saw, but again I can't exactly tell from the sound, maybe need better sound on my phone lol.[emoji111]

Thank you that’s pretty much what I did, went to about 11,500 and it stopped 4 stroking, then turned out about 1/4 or so of a turn to get it to burble nicely? I can try again soon I have to drive 10 mins to start the saw and partner has the car now haha

 

[Andyshine77]

If that's what you're hearing than keep it there, especially for break in. I'm wondering if you're tachometer isn't getting the real max rpm, as 260's usually like to spin pretty good.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

If that's what you're hearing than keep it there, especially for break in. I'm wondering if you're tachometer isn't getting the real max rpm, as 260's usually like to spin pretty good.

It could be wrong I’m not sure how accurate they are. It’s a Japanese tech that’s all I know ha. I’ll go out one more time and see so how does the low end / throttle sound to you?

 

[holeycow]

steve's saloon tutorial is excellent. Watch it again. You are lean all over.

The motor is brand new. It won't rev yet. Don't force it. Turn the idle down a tad..do this first

give it more gas on the low. Work in 1/16 to 1/8 turns on the low screw. Find fastest idle with the low screw by slowly leaning it out (clockwise). Give it a few moments to settle as you go. Find fastest idle then counterclockwise 1/8 to 1/4 turn max. This should give you a snappy throttle response.

(throw the tack in the bin), then make the thing rich on the high. Make it miss like it's running like crap. You want rich for break-in. Make it run overly rich, then lean it a hair and get it in some wood.

sometimes things don't react properly cause we don't give the carb some moments to "settle". We just keep on turnin and miss the sweet spot. Tiny adjustments done slowly usually works.
your saw can surely run better than that. There's no snap and it sounds weak. Shock and awe, shock and awe...

get it in some wood before you glaze the
cylinder...