Took it to the mechanic as I’m friendly with them, after a bribe of coffee he took a look. Thinks the low jet is blocked. Told me to bring it back in and he’ll file it out
Thanks mate I appreciate it. I’m surprised to hear you think the H is lean in that second video I posted, just a few posts above yours. It’s 4 stroking at 10,000 rpm. I took it to the mechanic and he had the same results. He thinks the low jet is blocked? Told me to bring the carb in and he will file it and re tune.steve's saloon tutorial is excellent. Watch it again. You are lean all over.
The motor is brand new. It won't rev yet. Don't force it. Turn the idle down a tad..do this first
give it more gas on the low. Work in 1/16 to 1/8 turns on the low screw. Find fastest idle with the low screw by slowly leaning it out (clockwise). Give it a few moments to settle as you go. Find fastest idle then counterclockwise 1/8 to 1/4 turn max. This should give you a snappy throttle response.
(throw the tack in the bin), then make the thing rich on the high. Make it miss like it's running like crap. You want rich for break-in. Make it run overly rich, then lean it a hair and get it in some wood.
sometimes things don't react properly cause we don't give the carb some moments to "settle". We just keep on turnin and miss the sweet spot. Tiny adjustments done slowly usually works.
your saw can surely run better than that. There's no snap and it sounds weak. Shock and awe, shock and awe...
get it in some wood before you glaze the
cylinder...
Have you got 5 mins for a call mate?Tom you had it pretty close the first time.
What it sounds like is one of progressive off idle drillings is blocked.
pure idle is/ was ok in the first vid, but when it moves off idle to the main jet, there are a few more drillings where fuel comes out, my thoughts are that they are the ones blocked, thus the bog off idle, but good idle.
Info on this is in the walbro manual I sent you, when you have the carb off the saw, you will see the idle jet drilling in the wall of the carb venturi, and a bit further up from that is the progressive port and so on, fine copper wire from some unstranded/ unwound speaker/ electrical wire that is fine, should see you move the gunk out of there, and remove the idle mixture screw, shoot a bit of carb cleaner thru, then a gentle shot of air, you will then see if that progressive port is blocked or not.
edited to add, the second vid, the saw is very rich on the high side, been a while since ive heard one like that
Yeah it has had two deep, through cleans even removing Welch plugs spraying and soaking in carb cleaner etc. new needle, gaskits and diaphragmsIs it an old carb? May just need to be cleaned out with some break parts cleaner. It didn't sound horrible just lacked that snap it should have. Not sure what he's going to file.
Those tachs are spot on mate, if you have it set up correctly on the right setting for 2 stroke, your fine.It could be wrong I’m not sure how accurate they are. It’s a Japanese tech that’s all I know ha. I’ll go out one more time and see so how does the low end / throttle sound to you?
yeah mate, call anytime before 2100 and after 0800, if were home, we will pick up.Have you got 5 mins for a call mate?
Thanks mate!! Sounds like everyone agrees the L and H are lean in first video. A few things have transpired sinceI'll comment for what it is worth. Overall you got it tuned good . Your just a little lean on both the L and H in first vid. I wouldn't feather that saw to get it to run at WOT. If you have to feather it your lean on the L. Drives me nuts to hear that feathering.
The tack is nice but try running the saw in some of that down under hardwood preferably in a bury the bar type cut. This is the best test of how well you got the saw dialed in. If the saw is tuned right it will sound like it is changing gears with no slowing down in mid range of the cut . If it falls off in the middle of the cut your lean on the H or possible the L . After completing the cut the saw should return to a consistent stable idle and stay idling . Hit the trigger again and make another cut and repeat as needed till your satisfied. The saw should accelerate cleanly with no hesitation and chew through the wood with no slow down provided the chain is sharp.
You may have to fiddle with the screws a little but this is the best way to get a saw dialed in.
You're the guy that wanted to bring back saws from the dead. Did you think it would be without any problems? MikeThis is no longer fun
Yes you’re absolutely right, I can’t do anything but agree with you when you put it like that.You're the guy that wanted to bring back saws from the dead. Did you think it would be without any problems? Mike
Makes things much easier now doesn't it. It's also why I have my doubts about what the coming generations will be. Never figuring things out on your own, changes how the brain works, or doesn't. That's just the way it's going to be from here on out.You are lucky Tom. When I started with a pile of Mcculloch parts and saws (left in the rain no less), there was no one but me to figure it out. No running to the internet every time I was stuck. I learned the hard way. Mike
Not my intention either, just making a general observation.lol yeah, everything is so much easier now. Cant figure it out? Ask some old timers on the internet (in no way intended as an insult to Tom, I have done this plenty times myself)
I haven't ventured into pipe saw territory yet. But I just did put together a 266 that is going to need race gas at minimum... LolShould be better, but to me saws with stock mufflers always doing sluggish.[emoji6]
Thanks so much for your advice Evan I agree there is some great advice and lots for me to learn. Yesterday it was a good reminder (when I was feeling very frustrated with myself) when someone commented, “what did you expect to happen when you try and revive a dead saw” which reminded me that mistakes and hiccups are a part of the process and you won’t get perfect results your first time around! Warmest regards mateLots of good info hear.
Usually if a saw wont run upon assembly at base line settings something is out of wack mechanically, like carb itself, impulse line, fuel line, seals
A new saw will run crisp get up and go I've not experienced the saw loosening up and revving higher that some describe here. But I also dont use a tack and never will.
When cutting all day I'll have a tuning screwdriver in my pocket. Make a tweak here or there as needed. I like to hear it burble alittle as it lifted out of the cut.
Hanging rpms coming down to a idle usually means lean.
It will take time and experience to get good at tuning. The tunning process will take much longer with a saw that's got leaks. Itl never be tuned and want constant adjustment at no gain. Can be a frustrating process.
Good luck and have fun with it.
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