manual
Addicted to ArboristSite
Light touch naw, the only time i have troubles is when I use my Carlton file-o-plate on rs chain seems to bog down a bit after the next filing no troubles.
MS 361 Review so far
- Thread starter talon1189
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Mine is stock except for a mild muffler mod. I don't know anything about hackberry but I cut a lot of dry oak and madrone and almond with mine. In hard wood it seems to do better if I just let it eat...no real force required. As long as it's running free and easy and I'm using sharp chain I haven't seen any need to really dog it in. I've cut some cedar and I'll dog it in on that just until it starts to labor a little and then back off. Saw cuts fine...much faster and smoother than the 032 it replaced.
Timberhauler
Addicted to ArboristSite
That saw makes a great toothpick
SawTroll
Information Collector
The MS361 is just such a nice "allround" saw, power for bucking and felling, and speed for limbing, in my wood.....:greenchainsaw:
RiverRat2
Serio Tree Freak
treeclimber jul
ArboristSite Operative
Good midrange
I run mine in a lot of dead locust with 20" bar and it seems to have no trouble.
Of course the chain is always sharp!! Good saw:deadhorse: :deadhorse:
I run mine in a lot of dead locust with 20" bar and it seems to have no trouble.
Of course the chain is always sharp!! Good saw:deadhorse: :deadhorse:
West Texas
ArboristSite Guru
I've been using my Big Dave modified 361 for almost a year now in the woods, and it has gotten a lot stronger after running it regularly. I rarely use the dawgs, unless I'm felling, and then just to keep the saw in the tree, applying only enough pressure to keep it moving through the wood.
I saw based upon the rpms mostly. I start the cut with full throttle and let the saw cut at its own pace essentially, keeping pressure on the saw; but, not allowing the rpms to fall more than a few hundred. I have it tuned at 14,800 rpms, and its probably cutting at 14,300 or there abouts and working like a champ. And that's in hard dead oak. It cuts a little faster of course in green wood and buries my feet in chips before you know it. I run a 20" bar with a 3/8x7 drive sprocket for best torque set up.
Of course, there is no substitute for a sharp chain. I carry at least two or three extras with me to the woods; and, I don't screw around with field sharpening except for touch ups. I have a nice machine grinder in the shop and lots of chain to keep plenty of spare loops on hand. The best saw in the world is only as good as the chain its running.
I saw based upon the rpms mostly. I start the cut with full throttle and let the saw cut at its own pace essentially, keeping pressure on the saw; but, not allowing the rpms to fall more than a few hundred. I have it tuned at 14,800 rpms, and its probably cutting at 14,300 or there abouts and working like a champ. And that's in hard dead oak. It cuts a little faster of course in green wood and buries my feet in chips before you know it. I run a 20" bar with a 3/8x7 drive sprocket for best torque set up.
Of course, there is no substitute for a sharp chain. I carry at least two or three extras with me to the woods; and, I don't screw around with field sharpening except for touch ups. I have a nice machine grinder in the shop and lots of chain to keep plenty of spare loops on hand. The best saw in the world is only as good as the chain its running.
SawTroll
Information Collector
How are your Ed Heard one??:yoyo: :yoyo:
West Texas
ArboristSite Guru
Its great; just not broke in yet as I've had a pipe on it for GTG's and not been using it in the field. However, today I removed the pipe; and, it will be going to the field this week for the first time. I believe that it will get better for the first 15 fuel tanks or so; that's what happened with the DN saw.
Fiore Indiana
ArboristSite Lurker
I like my MS361. I think I will put an 18" on it instead of 20" and then I will love it.
SawTroll
Information Collector
Fiore Indiana
ArboristSite Lurker
Thank you Sawtroll. I will do that.The balance is just perfect with an 18" Rollomatic E (not ES)........
Stihlcuttin86
ArboristSite Lurker
In my honest opinion the 361 is the best saw that i could have purchased. I recently pulled that little screen out of mine and fabbed my own little plate just to cover the slot that the screen goes in. I didnt add a whole lot but it seems a little more open. When i get a chance i am taking the muffler off and i am going to make it perfectly hollow and just open up the stock hole thats in the top of the muffler. I have wanted a Stihl saw since i was in 7th grade. I used to cut wood with my dad when he was alive and he would tell me about the saws that he used to run and i have always wanted a good one. I am now 20 just so you know. I sit at work after im all caught up on everything and just read this site. Honestly there is more info on this site than i expected. I have though about sending my saw out to get ported and all that but i dont trust too many people; especially not enough to send a 600 dollar saw flying in the mail ya know? I work in an office supply store for now cause my friends dad owns it and he needed someone who can install furniture but after getting my saw i am looking to get on a skidding/ logging crew i have always wanted to do that. Do any of yall have anything that i should know about getting into that as a career? I have given it a lot of though and i think ill do ok.
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
The stock screen won't have any effect - it's about 20X the area of the outlet...
If you want to see the inside of the muffler and a mod:
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=33528
If you want to see the inside of the muffler and a mod:
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=33528
Stihlcuttin86
ArboristSite Lurker
Ok good deal Lake, imma see if i can get mine done like yours im pretty good with stuff like that probably not as good as you are but ill giv er a shot.
Whats the trick?
On a ms361, how do you get the inner muffler bolt out when the #27 torx head seems to be stripped?
Tricks of the trades? I was thinking easy out, but didnt know if it would reach through the muffler to the torx head.
I was going to work on removing the baffle out of the 361 muffler, even though it had already been modded alittle, I just wanted to take it alittle further to my likings.
On a ms361, how do you get the inner muffler bolt out when the #27 torx head seems to be stripped?
Tricks of the trades? I was thinking easy out, but didnt know if it would reach through the muffler to the torx head.
I was going to work on removing the baffle out of the 361 muffler, even though it had already been modded alittle, I just wanted to take it alittle further to my likings.
- Joined
- Apr 3, 2002
- Messages
- 6,083
- Reaction score
- 631
Hey Cut4Funk..........
Make sure that your torx is not rounded at the end. If so touch it on a grinder to freshen up the tip. I have done this to allen wrenches with some success!!!
Sometimes an allen wrench will work. Or try some valve grinding compound........sometimes that will take up just enough to get the screw out!!!
Just went and bought a brand new stihl #27 and its the torx head for sure. going to give your idea and others i received in pm's a whirl.
I wonder if having the muffler hot from running would help during removal?
Thanks for the idea rottentreescum
I wonder if having the muffler hot from running would help during removal?
Thanks for the idea rottentreescum
- Joined
- Apr 3, 2002
- Messages
- 6,083
- Reaction score
- 631
I would run it.............just don't burn your hands...........leave that for when you pleasure yourself!!!
