MS 362 R Crank Case Split

[ebook]

I've had my MS 362 R for about 12 years now and it has been a great saw for me. Recently a piece of the clutch cratered and bounced around between the clutch and the clutch side of crank case. This of course tore up the oiler and oiler worm gear. But it also wore down the port where the oiler sends oil to and out to the bar (I realize I didn't explain that well). The long and the short of it is that I believe my only option is to replace the clutch side of the crank case (I do not have the specialty or some what specialty tools for that), along with the oiler, clutch, etc.

My question is ... is it worth it? It I have taken off the muffler and pulled the spark plug and from those vantage points it does not appear that the piston and cylinder have much scoring or wear, but I'm adding up a decent parts bill at this point and I probably would have to take it to the shop for the crankcase split. Any suggestions or advice?

Thanks!

 

[Lightning Performance]

I've had my MS 362 R for about 12 years now and it has been a great saw for me. Recently a piece of the clutch cratered and bounced around between the clutch and the clutch side of crank case. This of course tore up the oiler and oiler worm gear. But it also wore down the port where the oiler sends oil to and out to the bar (I realize I didn't explain that well). The long and the short of it is that I believe my only option is to replace the clutch side of the crank case (I do not have the specialty or some what specialty tools for that), along with the oiler, clutch, etc.

My question is ... is it worth it? It I have taken off the muffler and pulled the spark plug and from those vantage points it does not appear that the piston and cylinder have much scoring or wear, but I'm adding up a decent parts bill at this point and I probably would have to take it to the shop for the crankcase split. Any suggestions or advice?

Thanks!

Buy a case splitter.
Do it right or don't bother if it needs to come apart. The shop will charge you or just flat out say no. Replace the PTO bearing with a good one and the worm gear. Don't forget seals and fresh rings.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Or get it welded up vs the JB Weld that will fail around the brake band. Keep the oil pump if it works good.

 

[irhunter]

Well, sorry to hear about your saw.

The correct solution for you depends on how much dinking around you want to do.

Used case halfs and used assembled cases come up for sale from time to time. When they have them--which they don't now--assembled cases go for about $120 and case halfs about $40 on Chainsawr. Their prices are a nice guide for what you can expect to pay. If you find a private party sale, you should get the parts for a bit less.

Around here, your saw would have been worth about $450 pre-explosion and is now worth $75-100. You could, of course, part it out and make enough to buy a runner (more time dinking around).

Roy

 

[farmhard]

There was a few designs on here for splitters. I just use a 20 ton press that I bought for $200 at Princess Auto and never had any issues. Sometimes they will come apart with a dead blow but I do saws that have many previous rebuilds.
Famertec sells splitters very reasonably, it's the shipping that hurts. You can currently buy one for $50 on Amazon, eBay but you will need a press to put back together unless you like hammers more than bearings.
Personally as a shop I would not split your case as a liability if I am not doing the build. I don't have time to cater to people who don't want my services.

 

[junglejohnny28]

Buy a case splitter.
Do it right or don't bother if it needs to come apart. The shop will charge you or just flat out say no. Replace the PTO bearing with a good one and the worm gear. Don't forget seals and fresh rings.

Can’t say it better