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Cobus

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Apr 30, 2020
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Hey guys! First post here as a new member I know probably everything I’m going to ask on, has been talked about a million times... I have had this saw for around 6 years and has done everything I have needed it to do but little things get to me.. the saw liked to almost lean out when not putting a load to it like making my cpl last cuts on a tree top or limbing.. It would wind and almost want to die and give it a cpl hits on the throttle and would be fine after or if I let it die it would be a pain to start again. And usually this happened when I had 1/4- 1/2 tank left of fuel. So I rebuilt carb, new intake boot, fuel line, impulse line, tank vent and decomp switch (that I don’t use). Found a crack in my fuel tank and currently in shipping, has a dual port muffler cover. Tore the jug off last night piston looks great and cylinder. Top of piston has some carbon build up, can I clean that off without damaging the piston? I’m going to replace my crank seals. When I Get the seals out can I wash my crank case out with some 50:1 mix to clean it up in there without splittin the case? And on the seals Is the dirko sealant a necessity for the seals? And I have new rings. Do the rings line up a certain way? Or just put them on. Also throwing a new clutch on because if the saw wanted to idle the chain had to jolt a little, if I got it to where the chain would stop completely the saw would die. Also max rpm was only hittin 12,500. All in all I want this saw to run better than it did before. Thank for your input in advance and this is my first time doing anything with a saw besides cuttin. My apologies being Long winded.
 
Pull the jug and clean the crankcase out. Simple as that. If you plan to split the case do a full rebuild. I would suggest pressure testing the saw before you do anything. You don't need any sealant anywhere on the saw if using gaskets and supplied crankcase seals. Rings go on a certain way. you'll fully understand it by just looking at the piston. You'll just need to clutch springs, not a whole clutch.
 
Pull the jug and clean the crankcase out. Simple as that. If you plan to split the case do a full rebuild. I would suggest pressure testing the saw before you do anything. You don't need any sealant anywhere on the saw if using gaskets and supplied crankcase seals. Rings go on a certain way. you'll fully understand it by just looking at the piston. You'll just need to clutch springs, not a whole clutch.
Thank you! I actually found a hair line crack in my piston. Also the grooves for the rings are warped on the exhaust side.. who knows how the saw was treated when I received it.. I have a meteor piston on the way hoping it will be fine in my OEM jug. The just is in great condition, just need to clean a little bit of carbon off the top. Muriatic acid?
 
Definitely don’t use muriatic Acid on aluminum like a piston. Just take a razor blade and scrape it off. Or some kind of scotch bright attachment for a drill. Meteor in OEM jug will be good
 
Definitely don’t use muriatic Acid on aluminum like a piston. Just take a razor blade and scrape it off. Or some kind of scotch bright attachment for a drill. Meteor in OEM jug will be good

Sounds good. Thank you for the advice. Much appreciated. Hoping to get it running good and strong with no issues. I have a 046 as well and runs like a top. just need the 460 to run good. Dunno why I need 2 running but I do.
 

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