Ms 461 seized up rebuild or not

[Captain Bruce]

Any recommendations on a rebuild kit seams like there is a lot of off brand .

OEM from Baileys

 

[thomasinvancouver]

It’s a nice saw and parts are still available. I say go for it. If nothing else it’s a learning experience.

 

[SawBawss]

I have never used Hyway bearings. I try and stick with OEM bearings because they are the heart and soul of your saw. A bearing fails, and it takes out everything else. I don't know if Hyway builds their own bearings or not, but it says Taiwan on the outer bearing race.

 

[sawfarmer]

You will not have any problems with the meteor cyld kit they are fine to use.Just make sure you find the source of the lean condition .Seals.bearings and new gaskets.You will have the pride in doing your own saw rebuild.

 

[cookies]

I have used several hyway sets of bearings and seals, every one has worked flawless except one seal that had a casting flaw that i caught with a visual inspection before installation. Only use oem rubber parts like hoses, manifolds, av mounts and esp fuel filters. I stick new oem rings in every one i pop apart, even in aftermarket piston/cylinder kits. They are far superior to anything aftermarket in longevity tho caber is a decent choice in a pinch. In rebuilds cleanliness is next to godliness, wash every thing and I mean EVERYTHING and keep everything in a clean environment after washing it. I use a three step method to clean. Step 1 air wand to blow the chunks off then spray with purple power and hose off. Step 2 fully disassemble and use a parts washer brush and diesel to get the caked on bar oil and saw dust off and clean the fasteners up. Step 3 I wash everything again in the sink using dish detergent and a bottle brush so the saw parts no longer stink of fuel and oil so they may be kept inside the house in a box so they remain clean and organized until assembly. Do not skip washing out the muffler very well!!

 

[Kilo1988]

Was looking for new crank case just incase I noticed all the other 461s had a crank case support and mine doesn't just two bolts would their be a reason for someone to take that off ?

I asked the same question an was told run it without, that was like 4 months ago an saw is still goin good without just let it warm up before.

 

[av8or3]

I have a new OEM take off piston and cylinder set. $175 shipped. Let me know if you are interested.

 

[Mikesawed]

Dremel has those split mandrels. I have a bunch of them and use them the polishing crystals and stones..I simply put a cutting from a cotton T shirt in the split, then add a diamond polishing paste to the cotton and turn the Dremel up to about 20,000 RPM's and that will polish most stones. The mandrels can be purchased on eBay. eBay also had bits for a rotary tool that has a 1" scouring pad on the end. They come in 10-100 generally in 10-100 pieces with 4 different grits. But you can buy packs that are all the same as well. I use them for cleaning all kinds of parts.. The wire wheels always fall apart embedding the wires in my face, hands and arms. So the scouring pad bits work best for he. I mean they will strip the paint from a car, some are that coarse. But the fine ones basically just leave a satin finish on metal . They may remove soft material like aluminum though. So if you get them go with a low RPM and start with the finest grit until you see what it will do with the material. But for what your doing I'm thinking a soft hand with a Dremel on low RPM's with the black scouring pad rotary tool bits to start with. You can always put on a coarser pad and increase the RPM's. Let me know if you want and I will send you a link to the scouring pad bits.

Attached is a picture of the bits with the color and grit as well as the tag to use to search. A set of 100 pieces, 25 if each grit is about $25.

And no, it's not my listing and I make nothing from it. I just use these things for alot of different tasks and they work great.

 

[Mad Professor]

lots of utube stuff. My opinion here but stay away from acid. I used a 1/8" welding rod so one end would fit in a variable speed dremel, the other end I hammered it flat for about an inch then used a Dremel and cut off wheels to slit the flat spot so I could slip in the emory cloth. Most pros (and rich fellers) use a Foredom and a split mandrel. do some looking for videos it is worth your time. Try to concentrate on the build up areas, use a pick to determine if it is a gouge or High (aluminum transfer) build up as you clean up I have read to use a coarser grit from the start and keep tearing off a bit of emory cloth that is used up to get a fresh bite. Usually use 2 or so inches until it is gone and go again about 3/4" wide strips..

Not a problem using acid to remove transfer, just ONLY put the acid on the transfer. You need to get at it with wet/dry paper and detergent first to see what is in there. OP pictures it's hard to tell.

Use a Q-tip to apply the acid, let it work, rinse, sand , and repeat..........it will do zero damage to the plating as long as there are no holes where it can get to the aluminum underneath, same with port edges avoid those.

You can put grease on areas to protect them from acid, port edges and any gouges/holes in plating.

 

[Sacramento]

Just gonna put it out there.... If you end up not rebuilding it I'll take it off your hands for fair compensation.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I have an MS661c M-tronic in the same boat but worse. It needs a new outer handle, a muffler cooling plate, and a shroud. It's so seized up that I can't even get a compression reading. A logger gave it to me and said, "She's all yours." Looks like a big log or tree trunk rolled over it. I've elected to save it for parts because the parts on these saws cost an arm and a leg. Just MHO.

 

[Thomasbrown576]

Thanks for all the great information so far ! Great site glad I found it , I just checked the crank bearings zero play in them I might just split the case check them out further if they are good new seal and run em a little longer

 

[Thomasbrown576]

Well got the saw back together just in time for our last load of fire wood ! Saw runs beautifully unfortunately I didn't get a good seal on the crank case and it was leaking oil so I didn't get to cut with it . Bummer looks like I'll have to split the case again .

 

[Wood Doctor]

Crank case seal? Could be something else causing an oil leak. Check the caps first, and try to isolate the leak before you split the case again. To help pinpoint the leak, I generally set the saw on a couple of hardwood 1 x 1 slats and let it sit overnight with a paper towel underneath.

 

[Woodslasher]

Well got the saw back together just in time for our last load of fire wood ! Saw runs beautifully unfortunately I didn't get a good seal on the crank case and it was leaking oil so I didn't get to cut with it . Bummer looks like I'll have to split the case again .

Unless the gasket is torn or effed a bit of tightening on the case screws should fix the leak if it's from the case.

 

[Thomasbrown576]

I will try to tighten them up more , when I Rev the saw and release the trigger I can see oil coming out of the front of case below muffler its a good leak.i think seal must of got effed