Ms261 regular carb to mtronic carb?

[SOUTHERNFIREWOOD]

Can you make a ms261 non mtronic into the mtronic version got one used from a pawn shop just wondering if I can thank you for any information

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Can you make a ms261 non mtronic into the mtronic version got one used from a pawn shop just wondering if I can thank you for any information

Not easily. Not just the carb has to be swapped.

 

[SOUTHERNFIREWOOD]

Not easily. Not just the carb has to be swapped.

Ok thank you I’ll probably just keep it as it is probably use the money to get it ported

 

[ZeroJunk]

Sell the non and buy a Mtronic if that is what you want. Lot of parts are different. Flywheel, ignition module, control handle, wiring, carburetor... It's a big deal.

 

[SOUTHERNFIREWOOD]

Sell the non and buy a Mtronic if that is what you want. Lot of parts are different. Flywheel, ignition module, control handle, wiring, carburetor... It's a big deal.

I’ll keep the one I got practically brand new got it cheap I was just wondering if it was easy to do thank you for the information

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Sell the non and buy a Mtronic if that is what you want. Lot of parts are different. Flywheel, ignition module, control handle, wiring, carburetor... It's a big deal.

What difference in flywheels? I have 3 piles of 261s to assemble and all the flywheels are exactly the same. One saw is mtronic.
I've only noticed carb, coil and harness

 

[Chainmale]

What difference in flywheels? I have 3 piles of 261s to assemble and all the flywheels are exactly the same. One saw is mtronic.
I've only noticed carb, coil and harness

They look the same in appearance to me also.
Same as ms291

 

[singinwoodwackr]

They look the same in appearance to me also.
Same as ms291

All the numbers on them are exactly the same...I have 4 flywheels

 

[ZeroJunk]

What difference in flywheels? I have 3 piles of 261s to assemble and all the flywheels are exactly the same. One saw is mtronic.
I've only noticed carb, coil and harness

May be. I thought they were different. Either way it is a chore.
I'm thinking the carb housing has to be different for the computer interface and to hold the connectors for the solenoid. The top cover won't have the correct markings.
I seem to have gotten in to a groove of replacing the top handle on a MS 201 T or TC about once a week.
So, I'm going by those rather than the MS261 in particular.

But, I think if you try converting it will be one of those gifts that keeps on giving.

 

[user 122190]

Just hang out here at Arboristsite.com and there will be plenty of people you can trade with. MTronic is the way forward, yet we've a bunch of experts here that swear MTronic is BAD, riddled with problems, and could kill you. In a couple of years these "experts" will pay you to do a swap with them as they shun the more advance stuff. Be patient though. These experts are on dial-up, as broadband is also BAD, riddle with problems and could kill you.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Just hang out here at Arboristsite.com and there will be plenty of people you can trade with. MTronic is the way forward, yet we've a bunch of experts here that swear MTronic is BAD, riddled with problems, and could kill you. In a couple of years these "experts" will pay you do a swap with them as they shun the more advance stuff. Be patient though. These experts are on dial-up, as broadband is also BAD, riddle with problems and could kill you.

I prefer the standard adjustable carbs, they give you adjustability for a specific scenario and long term proven reliability. Unnecessary electronics that require a 2 - 4 week wait at the shop for them to get to your saw and a big bill to hook it up to their computer to diagnose a running issue and more parts to repair at a higher cost is just another example of dumbing down of society and an ever growing incompetent one too.

Especially when a screw driver can solve it rather than worn / leaking solenoids that require high micro filters or ever outdated modules that in 10 years time won’t be able to be read by stihls equipment and then forced to get a newer model.

What can be easily fixed on the go, isn’t always possible with m-tronics and then you’re at the mercy of the manufacturer when they want to outdate a model that you can’t get your one fixed.

You mock the simpler systems, yet look at what happened with John Deer customers and the right to repair act.

And let me add, m-tronic is a fantastic system in certain situations (especially homeowners), but I don’t see it as the blanket answer like you do.

Edit:

 

[SOUTHERNFIREWOOD]

I prefer the standard adjustable carbs, they give you adjustability for a specific scenario and long term proven reliability. Unnecessary electronics that require a 2 - 4 week wait at the shop for them to get to your saw and a big bill to hook it up to their computer to diagnose a running issue and more parts to repair at a higher cost is just another example of dumbing down of society an ever growing incompetent society.

Especially when a screw driver can solve it rather than worn / leaking solenoids that require high micro filters or ever outdated modules that in 10 years time won’t be able to be read by stihls equipment and then forced to get a newer model.

What can he easily fixed on the go, isn’t always possible with m-tronics and then you’re at the mercy of them when they want to outdate a model that you can’t get fixed.

You mock the simpler systems, yet look at what happened with John Deer customers and the right to repair act.

Thank you all for the information I’ll probably just keep it as a regular carb because I don’t think it’s worth the trouble to convert I was just wondering because I don’t have a mtronic so thought it would be cool to convert but for the price I think I will spend the money on getting it ported

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Thank you all for the information I’ll probably just keep it as a regular carb because I don’t think it’s worth the trouble to convert I was just wondering because I don’t have a mtronic so thought it would be cool to convert but for the price I think I will spend the money on getting it ported

you want to reach out to @drf255 - the man is a master with the 026 / 260 / 261’s and works to an incredibly high standard. He’s a great guy too. Check out some of his YouTube content, I think he goes by saw doc. Excellent attention to detail.

 

[SOUTHERNFIREWOOD]

you want to reach out to @drf255 - the man is a master with the 026 / 260 / 261’s and works to an incredibly high standard. He’s a great guy too. Check out some of his YouTube content, I think he goes by saw doc. Excellent attention to detail.

Ok thank you I will for sure I usually now more about the saw stuff like this but I’m a echo guy so stihl is not my cup of tea

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Ok thank you I will for sure I usually now more about the saw stuff like this but I’m a echo guy so stihl is not my cup of tea

As a first stihl to get - fully adjustable ms261 it’s about the best all round limbing / small firewood saw in stihls line up, you’ll love it.

 

[SOUTHERNFIREWOOD]

As a first stihl to get - fully adjustable ms261 it’s about the best all round limbing / small firewood saw in stihls line up, you’ll love it.

Yeah I have small tree business so it was recommended for limbing it’s my first 50cc saw so it rips to me but it could always be better but I haven’t ran any 50cc saws before besides the 261 so idk but I’m used to running my 70cc-90cc saws so it’s pretty fast for a 50cc saws I think

 

[user 122190]

I prefer the standard adjustable carbs, they give you adjustability for a specific scenario and long term proven reliability. Unnecessary electronics that require a 2 - 4 week wait at the shop for them to get to your saw and a big bill to hook it up to their computer to diagnose a running issue and more parts to repair at a higher cost is just another example of dumbing down of society and an ever growing incompetent one too.

Especially when a screw driver can solve it rather than worn / leaking solenoids that require high micro filters or ever outdated modules that in 10 years time won’t be able to be read by stihls equipment and then forced to get a newer model.

What can be easily fixed on the go, isn’t always possible with m-tronics and then you’re at the mercy of the manufacturer when they want to outdate a model that you can’t get your one fixed.

You mock the simpler systems, yet look at what happened with John Deer customers and the right to repair act.

And let me add, m-tronic is a fantastic system in certain situations (especially homeowners), but I don’t see it as the blanket answer like you do.

Edit:

My point is proven. Stick with an axe. Nothing to ever go wrong. Gas, spark, compression, dirty carb, frayed pull cord, fuel and air filters that need cleaning,,, who needs to hassle with all that. Just swing and axe, like a man....

 

[SOUTHERNFIREWOOD]

My point is proven.

True

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

My point is proven. Stick with an axe. Nothing to ever go wrong. Gas, spark, compression, dirty carb, frayed pull cord, fuel and air filters that need cleaning,,, who needs to hassle with all that. Just swing and axe, like a man....

This topic seems very astringent to you, it’s something you seem very bitter about and closed off to anything other than “my way is the right way and I’ll mock anyone else, I’m right you’re wrong”. Rather than being able to see the benefits of each side and be able to have a reasonable conversation over.

Answer me this, you take on all the above points, but you won’t include a screw driver to adjust a carb.. that’s all m-tronic does. Where as I take on all the above and simply add a screw driver. Maybe you should stick with battery you don’t have to even add fuel. Back to my point of dumbing down a throw away society.

All the points you raised can easily be fixed on the go, m-tronic is the only system on a chainsaw that requires an expensive electronic diagnostic system.

If you aren’t prepared to turn a screw 1/8 of a turn every so often, maybe you should go back to using an axe?

My point is proven…

 

[user 122190]

This topic seems very astringent to you, it’s something you seem very bitter about and closed off to anything other than “my way is the right way and I’ll mock anyone else, I’m right you’re wrong”. Rather than being able to see the benefits of each side and be able to have a reasonable conversation over.

Answer me this, you take on all the above points, but you won’t include a screw driver to adjust a carb.. that’s all m-tronic does. Where as I take on all the above and simply add a screw driver. Maybe you should stick with battery you don’t have to even add fuel. Back to my point of dumbing down a throw away society.

All the points you raised can easily be fixed on the go, m-tronic is the only system on a chainsaw that requires an expensive electronic diagnostic system.

If you aren’t prepared to turn a screw 1/8 of a turn every so often, maybe you should go back to using an axe?

My point is proven…

I have heard all this before. Once upon a time people preferred vacuum tubes in TVs. One goes bad, just hop down to the store where there were vacuum tube test stations, and a vast array or replacement tubes. Same thing about points in a car's distributors, vs. electronic ignitions. Yup, you are right. Get an axe, so much simpler, nothing ever to go wrong, nothing to ever have to worry about. Saws are bad, require parts that might have problems, whereas axes are good. Full proof and proven tough.

And while at it, why not go back to horses and ditch the cars. Let the horses graze and drink, and when you are ready, just toss a leg over and let the horse do all the work. And they replace themselves thru breeding. Free horses for life, for generations, forever and ever.