MS261C -M Muffler Mod ?

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Dilier23

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38079-50c79bc135b6def5a43f7fff59e6d6ee.jpg Good evening. Looking into doing a muffler modification on my MS261C-M but haven't seen any that have louvers cut into the front of the muffler where there are groves pressed in already. Is there something behind the front of the muffler that would make it not a good idea to cut into ?

For some reassurance, the M-Tronic will adjust air fuel mixtures to compensate for additional flow?
 
After some holes in my saw muffler the saw have power like

images

for some reasons the factory dont know how to do it , or dont have the correct tools so i decide to do it my self and the results are more than perfect

upload_2015-5-4_3-43-14.jpeg

so take yours grandfather 100 years old drill and start drilling .
 
Hit up the search, enter ms261 muffler mod and you will see several pages of results but the first page will be plenty, surely lots of pics and examples....

Yes the Mtronic will adjust, you may have to follow the reset (again teh search box is your friend). Most newer Stihl muffs are just empty cans... (ones I have seen) but putting outlets on the front, CAN lead to catching the tree you are cutting on fire. Maybe less likly on a 261, ans you probably would never have it in a tree big enough that the muffler has time to ignite the bark.


dw
 
I went ahead and tried it out. If it was done again I would not have cut the lower slot, the upper would have been enough extra in my opinion. It is louder, I don't particularly like that. The additional power is noticeable. I had been running an 18in bar, put a 20in on after the muffler mod and it will pull the longer bar better than a stock saw with an 18in bar. I made sure to reset the M-Tronic in a large enough log to use the entire length of the bar.IMG_0187.JPG
 
Bumping this thread to hopefully get more thoughts on muffler modding 261's (and 241's)

Searching is producing lots of discussion about how well it works, but very little detail on how to make the mods.

Are there any how-to guides on how to diy the removal of the spark arrestor screen? Any recommend folks who do this for a fee?
 
Bumping this thread to hopefully get more thoughts on muffler modding 261's (and 241's)

Searching is producing lots of discussion about how well it works, but very little detail on how to make the mods.

Are there any how-to guides on how to diy the removal of the spark arrestor screen? Any recommend folks who do this for a fee?

The 261cm is a great little saw. With a bit of work, you can get some impressive gains simply modifying the muffler.

The 261 is different from most of it's brethren in that it has a baffle plate situated directly between the cylinder exhaust exit and the muffler exhaust exit. It is the ONLY thing in the muffler that prevents the exhaust venting nearly directly from the cylinder in to the world. One. Tiny. Plate. When you remove this, the exhaust now has about an inch of travel before it hits atmo. This does two things - removes and prevents any chance of exhaust reversion - and it makes the exhaust very, very, very loud. The end results are much more power everywhere in the rev range.

This is what the muffler should look like when you remove the baffle(I've also opened the external muffler port a bit) - you should be able to see the cylinder exhaust port directly from the outside of the muffler:

158364757.gbjFojnk.jpg


This is the result I get on video - the unmodified 261 first, and then only a muffler mod:

 
Thanks reindeer. I'm googling "261 baffle" to see what I can find for a diy.

It seems the stainless steel muffler is tricky to work with. I'm also concerned about how loud "very loud" is. I wear ear protection but I do have neighbors.

Is there an in between solution? Something like what. Mastermind posted at the end of this thread

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/who-does-the-fancy-stihl-ms261-mm.230800
The easy way to do a 261 muffler is by cutting a slot under the factory opening.....yet still inside the deflector. That's how we do the 441, 362, and 261....

Would this allow me to start with small openings to judge the volume, and proceed as I feel comfortable?
 
I've never done a different mod, so I couldn't tell you how it works on the 261. What I CAN tell you about the sound is that the video camera and the wood is in the exact same place in both parts of the video, about 5 meters apart. And if you listen, it sounds nearly twice as loud in the second part.
 
Bumping this thread to hopefully get more thoughts on muffler modding 261's (and 241's)

Searching is producing lots of discussion about how well it works, but very little detail on how to make the mods.

Are there any how-to guides on how to diy the removal of the spark arrestor screen? Any recommend folks who do this for a fee?
The screen is removed with a single screw.
 
The screen is removed with a single screw.
Sorry, I meant removing the baffle plate, as reindeer described.

Do you have a feel for how the following compare?

1. Side gills
2. Baffle plate removal (reindeer style)
3. Porting
 
I have never felt the need to remove the baffle. It does not restrict flow through the gills I use exclusively.
Thanks!

It seems the 261c responds well to timing advances so I want to give it a try. Any tips on how much to try first?
 
After running about 100 tanks thru 3 261’s, I’m anxious to try Brads method of muffler mod.
Is it just a matter of using a small cutoff wheel and cocking the louvers out with a bar wrench?
Or on second thought a 1” chisel blade?
 
After running about 100 tanks thru 3 261’s, I’m anxious to try Brads method of muffler mod.
Is it just a matter of using a small cutoff wheel and cocking the louvers out with a bar wrench?
Or on second thought a 1” chisel blade?
That's exactly how I did my 261 MM. Night and day difference.
 

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