Ms261cm. 20" bar to big?

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Brian Macauto

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Aug 7, 2015
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Alpharetta, ga
Today I purchased a new MS261cm for 569$. It was a really good deal but it came with the 20" bar and .325 chain. I have read that the 18" bar is best for this saw. Should I try to have it changed over to the 18" or just use it as is. I won't be using it on anything huge, it's just my firewood saw but I wanted something that would last a long time. I also thought that down the road I could buy a 18" and chain if I wasn't happy... But I wasn't sure of the price of a bar and chain for the 261.

Think I'll be ok with 20" or is it going to bogg it down too much?

I was also looking at the 550xp husky but I have a lot more still service areas around.

Thanks!

Brian.
 
Welcome to the site! Good price on the saw too. The 20 inch bar will be fine, just don't lean on it hard when you have a full bar in wood. I actually have a couple of 50 cc saws set up with 20 inch bars as I find the extra reach easier to use at times. Get some good chisel or semi chisel, keep it sharp and you will be fine. Pick up a 16 inch setup down the road.
 
Mine came with a 20" b&c and it performs fine. I did end up buying a 16" set-up as well. Just haven't had an occasion to use it as of yet.

You might want to consider having an extra air filter on hand. They can come in handy when you don't expect it. I had to shell out about $24.00 or so for mine.
 
The 20" bar will give you some extra reach when limbing. If you are using the saw to buck logs, it would be better suited with a 16".

It all comes down to your application.
 
From the Stihl website:
STIHL recommends #3634 (26 RM3 67) OILOMATIC® Saw chain and 16" 3003 008 6813 Ematic™ guide bar combination.
Works fine for me. YMMV. Also, a 16" chain has fewer cutters and rakers to sharpen & adjust. Also, 16" on the MS261 is about all I want to bury in an oak stump.
 
You should be fine with the 20". Use it and see how it works for your needs. You can always pick up the 16" later. I'm lucky enough to have both set ups and they both work fine for me.
 
So what do you guys think the cutting time difference would be between a 20 inch bar on that in a 12 inch piece of wood , compared to it wearing a 18 inch bar in a 12 inch piece of wood?? I would think there really wouldn't really be any calculatable difference (I would try doing a test if I had both bars).......so to me it is nice to have that extra bit of reach and be able to cut a little bit bigger log on occasion knowing in the back of your mind you cant dog it in when you are cutting something 20 inches...... just seems like a no brainer to have the longer bar, especially with the .325 chain. I have had a 20 inch on my trusty old 026 since day one, with .375 full skip chain and with a simple MM, it cuts extremely well for a 50ccsaw..... plus its a lot quicker to sharpen that many less teef..... :)
 
A lot of 260's came with that very same setup. Mine did.

Your saw should be fine with the 20" in .325. Just don't push on it too much.


People have very different wiews on what is acceptable regarding performance, balanse and handling (to me a MS261 isn't acceptable regardless what bar is on it, but that's another story).

My advice would be to keep the 20" bar for occational use when needed, and get a 16" as the main bar.

Get a 16" if possible and save the 20" for when needed.
I agree!
 
So what do you guys think the cutting time difference would be between a 20 inch bar on that in a 12 inch piece of wood , compared to it wearing a 18 inch bar in a 12 inch piece of wood?? I would think there really wouldn't really be any calculatable difference (I would try doing a test if I had both bars).......so to me it is nice to have that extra bit of reach and be able to cut a little bit bigger log on occasion knowing in the back of your mind you cant dog it in when you are cutting something 20 inches...... just seems like a no brainer to have the longer bar, especially with the .325 chain. I have had a 20 inch on my trusty old 026 since day one, with .375 full skip chain and with a simple MM, it cuts extremely well for a 50ccsaw..... plus its a lot quicker to sharpen that many less teef..... :)

Big difference between a 20" full skip and full comp setup on a 50cc saw...but either way he will be fine as long as he's not leaning on it with the bar buried.
 
Thanks for all the reply's guys! I used the 20" bar over the weekend and I thought it worked very well, especially for limbing tree's that were on the ground as well as tackling some 10" trees (20' tall). The big test will come next weekend when I have a tree company take down a 60'-70' Oak that's about 18" in diameter. I'll be doing all the bucking and cleanup work on that monster as well as some 60' hickory and gum-trees (8" diameter). I think i'll need to get some backup chains before I tackle that!

My plan is to add a 16" B+C to my gear shortly so I should have the best of both worlds.

Saw-troll; I did read lots of your advice on other threads on the MS261, I believe you prefer the 550xp. I also looked into this saw as well but found that I had much better dealer representation for parts and repairs for Stihl in my area. So far, I am very happy with the MS261.
 
Any suggestions on the best chain? I've been doing some searching but haven't gotton very far. It looks like the recommended chain is a 26 RM3 81.

So that's a .325 Picco Rapid Mirco Single Humped Drive link 81 Drive links.

Can I use a 26RSC 81? That's a Super Chisel, not a picco... Any thoughts on the best chain for me? I'm cutting firewood, bucking a large oak tree, as well as some smaller hickory and gum-tree's (never heard of a gum-tree but that's what the arborist said I had).
 
Thanks for all the reply's guys! I used the 20" bar over the weekend and I thought it worked very well, especially for limbing tree's that were on the ground as well as tackling some 10" trees (20' tall). The big test will come next weekend when I have a tree company take down a 60'-70' Oak that's about 18" in diameter. I'll be doing all the bucking and cleanup work on that monster as well as some 60' hickory and gum-trees (8" diameter). I think i'll need to get some backup chains before I tackle that!

My plan is to add a 16" B+C to my gear shortly so I should have the best of both worlds.

Saw-troll; I did read lots of your advice on other threads on the MS261, I believe you prefer the 550xp. I also looked into this saw as well but found that I had much better dealer representation for parts and repairs for Stihl in my area. So far, I am very happy with the MS261.


As I said, people are different! :)
 
Any suggestions on the best chain? I've been doing some searching but haven't gotton very far. It looks like the recommended chain is a 26 RM3 81.

So that's a .325 Picco Rapid Mirco Single Humped Drive link 81 Drive links.

Can I use a 26RSC 81? That's a Super Chisel, not a picco... Any thoughts on the best chain for me? I'm cutting firewood, bucking a large oak tree, as well as some smaller hickory and gum-tree's (never heard of a gum-tree but that's what the arborist said I had).

The current 26RS is the same as what was called 26RSC earlier, and some RSC designated chain likely still is in the "pipeline". Just avoid those with the "3" at the end of the designation - they are "green".

RS/RSC is chisel (for reasonable clean wood).

RM/RMC is semi-chisel (tolerates more dirt), but isn't as fast in clean wood.
 
Resurrecting an old thread, but my own 2 cents is that the MS 261 handles a 25" B&C pretty well and oils well (maxed).

As far as bogging goes, the newer generation Stihls bog very easy when leaned into and need to be kept up in the rpms. And with a sharp chain the saw should feed itself in the wood.

Mad3400
 
I don’t have a 261, but I do have a 026 Pro. Pulls a 20” bar with full comp full chisel 3/8” chain in soft wood pretty good. At my shop standard equipment for a 261 is a 20” bar .325 chain. We’ll throw on either full or semi chisel chain per customer request. I will say I prefer .325 on 50cc saws in general.
 
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