MS290 Oiler problem

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goof008

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I need help getting the oiler to put out enough oil. My 20" bar is starting to discolor and the chain seems real dry. Here are the facts:

It used to use about 2/3 of a tank of oil to tank of fuel mix

I drained the oil and removed, cleaned and reinstalled oil pick up because it was using about 1/2 of a tank of oil to fuel mix.

It now uses less oil than it did before I cleaned everything.

I keep turning out the oile screw, but it never hits a stop or seems to help, but I don't want the think to come out completely

I am heading to the dealer to pick up a new pick up, as the old one seemed to pull off to easy from the pump, but if that's not it, what do I do next? Please give me advice BEFORE telling to just throw it in the corner, the garbage, the lake, the chipper or anyplace else. I don't have the money to buy a 361, but am willing to take donations toward one, you can either send money or wood, either one works.
I've heard of the work gear going bad, what might be involved with changin that?

As always any help would be great, and contact me for mailing/delivery of the money, wood, or a new 361!!:)
 
2/3 of a tank of oil to gas is pretty good. Point your bar at a piece of cardboard and wing the throttle a few times. You should get small droplets sprayed across the cardboard similiar to what my garage door looks like. ;)
 
Your oil pump seems to be working just fine, BUT you've broken off the casting stop on the pump housing. It's expensive to replace so I'd just find the max point (about 2/3 tank of oil per tank of gas) and leave it there. Take your bar and chain off, run the saw at a moderate rpm and watch the oil coming out. Adjust for max flow.

It doesn't screw in/out - just rotates though less then 180 degress. You don't have to worry about it unscrewing.
 
ok, I pulled the bar and chain off, and the oil was barely trickling out the oil hole. Any ideas on the problem(s)?
 
It has stopped using the 2/3's of a tank. It started to use about 1/3 - 1/4, but now uses almost nothing. I checked the oil pick up line and it seems to be ok, it slid on and off the pump a little easier than I thought it would, so I am goint to replace that, if the dealer can find it....he looked for the three they had in stock for 15-minutes and had no luck, so I have to get out to another dealer, but am thinking it's more than that.
 
As always any help would be great, and contact me for mailing/delivery of the money, wood, or a new 361!!:)

A new 361 may not necessarily solve your problems. I bought a new 361 whose oiler has been dog slow since day 1.

The dealer put in a new oiler but it's STILL dog slow (maybe 1 oz of oil per tank of premix), so maybe I'll have better luck with my THIRD oiler...

:sucks:
 
that would suck...but at least the dealer is doing it for you...I have a feeling I will be doing it myself!! I may have to go get a HD Makita to finish up the cutting I need to do this spring and work on the oiler after the cutting is done.
 
Check the oil feed hose FROM the tank to the oiler - it's under the main handle on the bottom. 290 oilers are dead easy to fix, and it's almost never the pump itself.
 
Lakeside,
I had checked it thinking maybe the filter was plugged. I did notice that when I pulled it off the pump, it was very easy to pull off, and then put back on very easily also. I went to the dealer, and they were unable to find any of the three they had in stock. I just haven't made it to the other shop in the area. I hope that's all it is.
 
If the hose isn't split on the end it's probably o.k. Take the clutch drum off (clip) and look to see if the arm is on the pump drive.
 
I'll give that a try. I did it once, but didn't know what I was looking for. Can you help describe what the arm will look like, or should it be pretty clear?
 
I think I can see the tip of the pump worm spring arm at 16 minutes.. in your second pic... but before we go any further, do you have an IPL?
 
I do not have an IPL. I took the saw into the dealer to have the parts guy (the service guys were gone), he said to make sure the notch in the drum lined up with the arm. I can't be sure that I had done that, so I put it all back together, I broke the e-clip! But by spinning it by hand for a while, I noticed some fluid behind the spring I didn't notice before. I'll get a new e-clip and try again tomorrow after work. BTW, how do you get that assembly shown in the picture off?
 
That's the clutch.

Advance the piston until it's above the exhaust port (look in though the spark plug hole), then put a length of 3/8 nylon rope into the cylinder. This will block the piston from moving, and you can take off the clutch with a big wrench or 19mm deep socket - LEFT HAND THREAD!!!!!

Use a torque wrench when you put it back on... 50 Nm...
 
How hot should a bar get?

A new 361 may not necessarily solve your problems. I bought a new 361 whose oiler has been dog slow since day 1.

The dealer put in a new oiler but it's STILL dog slow (maybe 1 oz of oil per tank of premix), so maybe I'll have better luck with my THIRD oiler...

:sucks:

I returned my new 361 the day I bought it, (last month) for an oiler that stopped working during the first tank of fuel. I have been watching it real closely and my bar seems to run quite hot at times, can't keep my hand on it. (I do shut the saw off first) I suspect the oiler may be running intermittently.
It also looks pretty dry compared to other oilers I have used.

It's my only disappointment with the saw.

Anyone know how hat a bar should get? My guess is pretty hot even with a good oil flow when bucking 20" dia. Beech logs with a 24" inch bar.
 
Mine can get pretty hot... The saws today use a lot less oil than previously.

The best measure is 1) is the bar burning? (bad); 2) is the chain binding (bad)?.


Most newer saws will use 1/2 to 3/4 tank of oil per tank of gas.
 
Thanks Lakeside....once the clutch is off, will I have access to the oiler and be able to replace it if needed?
 
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