MS360 Brake Handle broke

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Nine6Teen

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Hey boys ... the brake handle ( 1125 792 9100 Hand Guard ) broke on my MS360. right near the lug that interfaces with the brake linkage. This is the 2nd time within the last year. Are these known to fail, or might it be something going bad in the brake mechanism ? It works fine otherwise, and I love the 360, perfect size for the work I do. your thoughts / experiences ?
 
Never heard of them braking like that.
They all brake but from a hit. But if the linkage is binding some how to much pressure would be needed to pull it back. I rebuilt a bunch and not seen one come in broke unless hit.
 
I never broke one. I have replaced a few worn out ones, would not stay set and replaced some that got smashed.

If you can post a photo you might get better advise. Are both broken flags OEM parts?
 
Here is a picture , the black round disk is all that is left of the handle, the rest of it fractured off at ahout the 11 o clock position, I've got the linkage set in the brake off position. ordered a new stihl oem. the one in the picture that is broke is chinese



IMG_2165.jpg
 
You,re missing the 2 nylon chain guides and the plate over the bar atuds, or did you pull it off for some reason?
 
Hey boys ... the brake handle ( 1125 792 9100 Hand Guard ) broke on my MS360. right near the lug that interfaces with the brake linkage. This is the 2nd time within the last year. Are these known to fail, or might it be something going bad in the brake mechanism ? It works fine otherwise, and I love the 360, perfect size for the work I do. your thoughts / experiences ?
Anyone else use the saw?
 
I would be willing to say that the aftermarket brake flag was probably not up to the task, not sure on the OEM first flag.

I might recommend looking at the OEM parts list if you can to make sure that you have all of the little e-clips and such. I thought there was one on the flag post as well. It would not in my opinion explain the flags breaking though. Okay so I looked at a parts saw and there is no indent for a clip on that post, carry on.

Not sure what the problem is. Been a good while since I have looked at a 1125 saw. Hopefully some others will chime in.

The other side of the flag has a screw and metal cup to pass through and retain the flag through the starter, if that was not correct it might allow to much twist on the bar side of the saw flag mount and eventually snap it. Maybe? I would think it would take many vigorous resets.
 
It all looks good from here. Make sure you grease it up a little after you replace the handle and operate it a few times before sealing it off. That big spring will drive you crazy to replace unless you have a Stihl tool designed for it or one like this one that I made in the shop:

The end sits on top of the stud that the big spring attaches to and then allows the spring to slip over it and fasten back on.
 
I would be willing to say that the aftermarket brake flag was probably not up to the task, not sure on the OEM first flag.

I might recommend looking at the OEM parts list if you can to make sure that you have all of the little e-clips and such. I thought there was one on the flag post as well. It would not in my opinion explain the flags breaking though. Okay so I looked at a parts saw and there is no indent for a clip on that post, carry on.

Not sure what the problem is. Been a good while since I have looked at a 1125 saw. Hopefully some others will chime in.

The other side of the flag has a screw and metal cup to pass through and retain the flag through the starter, if that was not correct it might allow to much twist on the bar side of the saw flag mount and eventually snap it. Maybe? I would think it would take many vigorous resets.
All I use is replacement aftermarket brake handle on every saw I rebuild and not one of them have come back from just fracturing off . I think this could be the brake band being to tight up against the wall of the casting somehow when opened. When u pull to open it was it hard to make the brake engage to lock?
 
It all looks good from here. Make sure you grease it up a little after you replace the handle and operate it a few times before sealing it off. That big spring will drive you crazy to replace unless you have a Stihl tool designed for it or one like this one that I made in the shop:

The end sits on top of the stud that the big spring attaches to and then allows the spring to slip over it and fasten back on.
Lol Or just a long thin screw driver with a notch ground in it lol I can't believe there's a actual tool for such a simple task.
 
All I use is replacement aftermarket brake handle on every saw I rebuild and not one of them have come back from just fracturing off . I think this could be the brake band being to tight up against the wall of the casting somehow when opened. When u pull to open it was it hard to make the brake engage to lock?

Is there a particular brand?

I do not see lots AM brake flags but more than a few, some are decent some are really really flimsy, almost to much flex to reset or the fit is off a bit.

Usually see them on the Stihl 021s and 029s or the Husq 350s and 365s. Never see them on commercial use saws always flippers or a home owner.

Did not know they made an AM flag for the 1125s.
 
been thinking about this a lot, in conjunction with the fine comments above. It might be due to the way i carry the saw into the jobsite. typically we have to hike in sometimes a mile or more, up steep, uneven terrain. I've made a sling that pickups the handle bar ( not the brake handle) and goes over my shoulder, so the saw is resting against my hip as I hike in. it could be the side impacts from walking is stressing the brake handle.
 
Lol Or just a long thin screw driver with a notch ground in it lol I can't believe there's a actual tool for such a simple task.
I tried one of those long thin screwdrivers with a ground notch for awhile. Eventually the notch gave up. So, I made my own. Those springs are strong as apes. OP has likely already found this out.

Yes, Stihl has sold this special tool for years: 1117 890 0900.
 
been thinking about this a lot, in conjunction with the fine comments above. It might be due to the way i carry the saw into the jobsite. typically we have to hike in sometimes a mile or more, up steep, uneven terrain. I've made a sling that pickups the handle bar ( not the brake handle) and goes over my shoulder, so the saw is resting against my hip as I hike in. it could be the side impacts from walking is stressing the brake handle.

Would not take much force from side to tweak the broken area.
 
Would not take much force from side to tweak the broken area.
Many times these break off or crack when logs roll over them. One guy told me he backed his truck into the saw. Another guy's saw vibrated off a step ladder when he set it down where the paint bucket usually rests. A Stihl dealer mechanic once said this was just about the most common repair that he has to make--replacing broken chain brake handles.
 
I have replaced lots of them as repairs during rebuilds(no known history), broken a couple myself but never had one snap doing what it is supposed to do. I set and release them A LOT on the hills while repositioning no issues. Roll a saw down the hill and I am positive they break break on the last tumble as a sort of karmic middle finger.

I can bounce an 018 down the hill and it will be fine, gently tumble a 460 and $$$$.

I am editing to clarify, I am aware that I said earlier that I never broke one, I should have said I never had one break using it as a brake, just busting stuff that would be different.

Oddly enough many that get replaced during rebuilds have been cut into by a chainsaw. That is something that I have not done, yet.
 
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