Ms460?

[Hunt4lumber]

First post here guys, im lookin to get a alaskan jig for milling up a 32" maple tree that has been laying for acouple yrs. now.
Ive got a original ms460 mag ( dual port muffler)with a 24" bar.
From all other posts ive gathered some insite and am assuming i cant run a 36" bar on this saw b/c of oiler not keeping up and it would tax the saw too hard?
Im trying to figure out the correct saw/ bar combo/ alaskan jig size to be able to saw this 32" maple. Im looking into a ms660 and 36" bar and a 36" mill attachment, thanks for any advice fellas.

 

[Woos31]

First post here guys, im lookin to get a alaskan jig for milling up a 32" maple tree that has been laying for acouple yrs. now.
Ive got a original ms460 mag ( dual port muffler)with a 24" bar.
From all other posts ive gathered some insite and am assuming i cant run a 36" bar on this saw b/c of oiler not keeping up and it would tax the saw too hard?
Im trying to figure out the correct saw/ bar combo/ alaskan jig size to be able to saw this 32" maple. Im looking into a ms660 and 36" bar and a 36" mill attachment, thanks for any advice fellas.

When I first got my 460 it came from the saw shop with 36" b/c but only ever had the bar buried a few times a year in pine pitch stumps which the saw had no trouble with a sharp chain, but in mill configuration for hours on end not sure. Now I cut several cords firewood last year using every bit of a 32" bar on most trees and it pulled my square ground skip chain just fine. If it were me I'd be looking for an 066/660 390/394/395 for milling if I were doing it regular. Good luck with everything sir and again those are my non-milling .02 cents so look for the regular milling guys to pass better info that what I have. Safe cuttin

 

[BobL]

Unless you drill the bar through the nose sprocket and bolt the bar to the mill 36" bar means 32" cut on a conventional alaskan.

It depends on how many 32" logs you are going to mill.
If that is going to be a common size then a 90cc saw would be better.
A 70cc saw is in the sub 30" cut milling category in my book but it's OK if you are going to mill only a few bigger ones.

 

[Woos31]

Unless you drill the bar through the nose sprocket and bolt the bar to the mill 36" bar means 32" cut on a conventional alaskan.

It depends on how many 32" logs you are going to mill.
If that is going to be a common size then a 90cc saw would be better.
A 70cc saw is in the sub 30" cut milling category in my book but it's OK if you are going to mill only a few bigger ones.

Thanks for the insight BobL, don't mean to step on OP here as I was thinking along that line also but again haven't milled with my 460 only free hand slabbing. Hunt4Lumber, don't mean to be takin over your thread LOL, I as well as yourself I'm sure appreciate the knowledge of the other folks on AS. So I shut up now haha, have a good one sir

 

[Hunt4lumber]

Thanks all, i only have that one 32" maple, and my thought was to only mill maybe a dozen boards out of it and use rest for firewood.
With that said it sounds like if i closely watch oiler/ saw power and take it easy on it it would make it( i know theres no guarantee)but hate to have to drop 800$ or more on a used 660 for what i want to do...
Why and where do i lose the 4" from a 36" bar?im just asking b/c i want to make sure before i buy mill/ bar/ chain.
Best chain for this combo?( ms460 mag, dual port, 36" bar( only using 32" of it), alaskan mill, homemade rails.
I will post some pics when i get setup, in my book the wood is the superstar.my love for woodworking is what started this thought process ( i was just going to use for firewood)

 

[rarefish383]

You loose the length in the clamps that clamp the bar to the mill. If you are only milling a few boards, you don't need ans aux oiler, it's called a one quart bottle. I milled for several years with an old Homelite 1050 with 36" bar. I used a piece of extension ladder for my guide rails. I just set a bottle of oil between the rungs. every time I took a step forward I would poor a big shot of oil on both ends of the bar, Joe.

 

[Hunt4lumber]

And the oil didnt get all over the wood slabs?

 

[BobL]

And the oil didnt get all over the wood slabs?

Unless it's old dry friable wood the oil won't soak in very far as the moisture in the wood keeps it from doing that.

 

[Mad Professor]

Once you take off the outer slabs with the bark the tree won't be 32" any more. Then take off a few flitches for boards and you might get by with a 28" bar.

 

[Hunt4lumber]

I had thought that way, but would like live edge so im gunna give the saw a go and see how it takes it...

 

[chads]

I milled quite a bit with a 460 with a 36" bar it could use a bit more power, but I have never heard anyone say they have too much hp, it has worked for a couple years.
The key is to not force it in the cut and to keep the rpms up.
There is a sweet spot between rpms and feed rate that holds rpms up and has max hp and cuts pretty fast.
If you ease up on the pressure it will self feed if you prop one end of the log up.
A good sharp chain helps too.
I would say go for it.
If you can drill the a hole in sprocket nose bearing you will get a few inches.
A aux oiler will help too.
I would lean toward a better 2 cycle oil than to alter the mix too much.
I use synthetic and about 45:1 ratio the lower ratios will lean it out too much for you.
So far so good.
Chad