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I've never messed with the aftermarket China stuff, just doesn't sound appealing to me so I haven't bought any of it. What are your experiences with the items he mentioned?
All of the aftermarket Chinese parts are inferior in every way. That is why they are so cheap, you can buy a piston cylinder kit for $100 and a lot of times much less, carbs $10 and up, handle, covers, tanks... everything is a fraction of the cost.

I've had a few piston cylinder kits fail, the carbs I've tried are hit and miss at best, tank/handles leak, rubber fuel line and impulse hoses are complete junk and dont last. The crank seals are no better.
I've got bitten once to many times to touch aftermarket trash. If it's not OEM I won't use it.
 
However to attack someone who might be an asset to this forum seems pretty mean spirited to me.
If you have seen how many of these "new" sellers rip people off around here with aftermarket trash you would speak up to.

I almost got taken for over $500 dollars on a deal just like this (it could be the same seller using a different name, I wont stretch my neck out that far but... who knows).
The only thing that saved me was I paid with paypal using goods and services.

And that is what I would recommend any buyer here to do.
 
I really do not know what y'alls problem is with this sale.
I read the 1st post and he was upfront with info about aftermarket parts. He also honestly answered questions regarding the saw. He does not appear to be trying to pull one over on anyone. Asking a pretty steep price imo, but that is what he wants.
I would not say he is trying to trick anyone though. Those guys usually don't admit to what aftermarket parts are in a saw and try to sell it as 100% OEM.
 
All of the aftermarket Chinese parts are inferior in every way. That is why they are so cheap, you can buy a piston cylinder kit for $100 and a lot of times much less, carbs $10 and up, handle, covers, tanks... everything is a fraction of the cost.

I've had a few piston cylinder kits fail, the carbs I've tried are hit and miss at best, tank/handles leak, rubber fuel line and impulse hoses are complete junk and dont last. The crank seals are no better.
I've got bitten once to many times to touch aftermarket trash. If it's not OEM I won't use it.
Dont fear the plastic covers.
 
If you have seen how many of these "new" sellers rip people off around here with aftermarket trash you would speak up to.

I almost got taken for over $500 dollars on a deal just like this (it could be the same seller using a different name, I wont stretch my neck out that far but... who knows).
The only thing that saved me was I paid with paypal using goods and services.

And that is what I would recommend any buyer here to do.
I didn't realize it was such a problem. It sucks to get burned like that.
 
If you have seen how many of these "new" sellers rip people off around here with aftermarket trash you would speak up to.

I almost got taken for over $500 dollars on a deal just like this (it could be the same seller using a different name, I wont stretch my neck out that far but... who knows).
The only thing that saved me was I paid with paypal using goods and services.

And that is what I would recommend any buyer here to do.
Hate to hear that, I've heard even with goods and services it still takes a long time to get your money back. Pretty good advise I think...
 
Goods & services is the only way to go , friends & family is for suckers ! I have no problem with a seller making a buck , but do not misrepresent your product . There's a big difference within a G-660 & a MS-660 . I respect Tim or Brett or Wolfy , speaking up on behalf of the integrity of the site , or anyone else for that matter . I have purchased a few units on this site because of the professionalism of the sellers involved . I want it to stay that way ! :blob2:
 
I’m going to say this. I had a saw that wouldn’t start. Just wouldn’t like it wasn’t getting fuel. I knew it had spark. I checked out the tank vent. It had some plastic flashing around part of it I cleaned off. I put a carburetor on it that I knew worked from a running saw. I went to start the saw and still nothing. I searched and on this forum I found a thread that was pages and a guy just kept saying make sure it’s not flooded. Ok so I changed two things. The tank vent and the carb. So I put the original carburetor back on it. Still nothing. The old guy kept screaming make sure the thing isn’t flooded. Said turn it upside down with the spark plug out and turn it over. Well I did that and about three once’s of fuel came out. So it was the tank vent and the saw fired right up after. So I’ve gotten a lot of great info from people. Now that wasn’t me posting but if not for that I would have never turned the thing upside down and cycled it. I would have just taken the plug out and cycled it.
 
So when I talk about bearings or seals that I hear people changing or need to be changed I shared my experience and info. The best I have to give. I had a person respond with saying he had put measuring devices on parts and he followed it with a racist statement. I respect your observations for parts but for me if that’s not enough and racism is your other way of gaining support then I’m going to shut down my listening. Now with the parts they could change three months from now. It could be a different vendor.
 
Just be honest about what is on the saw. That is all you can do.
Aftermarket parts aren't for everyone. I have used both and had success with both.
Put a WarHawk cylinder on a husky 350 for a buddy, 2 years later he still loves it.
Doesn't use it for a living though.
If my paycheck depended on it, I wouldn't want aftermarket parts either.
The biggest issue with bad sellers are ones that try to pass something off as OEM, but it isn't or with new parts, but used all old internal parts.
GLWS
 
Just be honest about what is on the saw. That is all you can do.
Aftermarket parts aren't for everyone. I have used both and had success with both.
Put a WarHawk cylinder on a husky 350 for a buddy, 2 years later he still loves it.
Doesn't use it for a living though.
If my paycheck depended on it, I wouldn't want aftermarket parts either.
The biggest issue with bad sellers are ones that try to pass something off as OEM, but it isn't or with new parts, but used all old internal parts.
GLWS
Absolutely! I can’t say that I would want to depend on a tool to use everyday that didn’t give me the surest bet of reliability. Hot rod cars are nice to drive but aren’t worth a crap if they leave you stranded! For me I do most everything myself. So I’m not scared of something breaking. If I was using something everyday I would go with OEM and not sure I’d go past a muffler mod unless I did it myself. You have your best bet with OEM for sure. Older OEM, yes if you know what you are looking for then I’d lean towards that. It depends on what you want for what price.
 
Goods & services is the only way to go , friends & family is for suckers ! I have no problem with a seller making a buck , but do not misrepresent your product . There's a big difference within a G-660 & a MS-660 . I respect Tim or Brett or Wolfy , speaking up on behalf of the integrity of the site , or anyone else for that matter . I have purchased a few units on this site because of the professionalism of the sellers involved . I want it to stay that way ! :blob2:
Thanks brother.
 
So when I talk about bearings or seals that I hear people changing or need to be changed I shared my experience and info. The best I have to give. I had a person respond with saying he had put measuring devices on parts and he followed it with a racist statement. I respect your observations for parts but for me if that’s not enough and racism is your other way of gaining support then I’m going to shut down my listening. Now with the parts they could change three months from now. It could be a different vendor.
Now that you keep yapping it is very obvious you don't know much about saws!
 
OEM is for pros. After market can be fine for occasional use. Pretty simple equation.

As a feller with 100 hobbies I'll be damned if I'm going to buy the best in everything. My last name is certainly not Gates or Bezos.

If only somebody made a chemical that sank to the bottom of carburetors and dissolved the ethanol residue that clogs carburetors jets after a couple years of non use. Sometimes faster, sometimes slower. Ethanol has junked tens of millions of small engines.

For similar reasons - I tend to consider pre-2008 diesels. Thread drift anyone?
 
OEM is for pros. After market can be fine for occasional use. Pretty simple equation.

As a feller with 100 hobbies I'll be damned if I'm going to buy the best in everything. My last name is certainly not Gates or Bezos.

If only somebody made a chemical that sank to the bottom of carburetors and dissolved the ethanol residue that clogs carburetors jets after a couple years of non use. Sometimes faster, sometimes slower. Ethanol has junked tens of millions of small engines.

For similar reasons - I tend to consider pre-2008 diesels. Thread drift anyone?
Yeah, and then if it’s not junked it will be soon without a carburetor rebuild. I’m not sure but my Father turned me on to Star Tron ethanol treatment and we haven’t had any carburetor problems with stuff that sits. They don’t sit for years and non ethanol fuel would probably be best anyway but a little precaution can’t hurt.
 
OEM is for pros. After market can be fine for occasional use. Pretty simple equation.

As a feller with 100 hobbies I'll be damned if I'm going to buy the best in everything. My last name is certainly not Gates or Bezos.

If only somebody made a chemical that sank to the bottom of carburetors and dissolved the ethanol residue that clogs carburetors jets after a couple years of non use. Sometimes faster, sometimes slower. Ethanol has junked tens of millions of small engines.

For similar reasons - I tend to consider pre-2008 diesels. Thread drift anyone?
Yeah, and then if it’s not junked it will be soon without a carburetor rebuild. I’m not sure but my Father turned me on to Star Tron ethanol treatment and we haven’t had any carburetor problems with stuff that sits. They don’t sit for years and non ethanol fuel would probably be best anyway but a little precaution can’t hurt
 
@Bdlt78 , you have to be utterly transparent on these clone saws. It’s no myth that the QC is bad and it will eventually show up in a lot of your builds. You may get 100 saws out there before they start to crater, but some definitely will. Of course, some OEM saws will crater as well, just not as many.
You have to make sure your customers know they’re buying a product with a mixed reputation. Lots of guys take advantage of buyer ignorance to sell clone saws as though they are as good as OEM. Although the horror stories may be exaggerated there is a very long documentation trail of poor quality and failure. Even if you haven’t seen it, many others have. You need to be painfully up front about that or your reputation will head down the toilet. And it will justify the rude behavior of the haters.

FWIW, you port work looks good. Back your work up with quality parts. Get some genuine 660s and port them. Sell both clones and OEM. Then your customers can choose and make an informed decision.

Don’t let the trolls run you off the site. Your knowledge is valuable. AS needs fresh perspectives and contributors. Welcome.
 
Yeah, and then if it’s not junked it will be soon without a carburetor rebuild. I’m not sure but my Father turned me on to Star Tron ethanol treatment and we haven’t had any carburetor problems with stuff that sits. They don’t sit for years and non ethanol fuel would probably be best anyway but a little precaution can’t hurt
Startron is the best product with merit so far , in this thread !
 
@Bdlt78 , you have to be utterly transparent on these clone saws. It’s no myth that the QC is bad and it will eventually show up in a lot of your builds. You may get 100 saws out there before they start to crater, but some definitely will. Of course, some OEM saws will crater as well, just not as many.
You have to make sure your customers know they’re buying a product with a mixed reputation. Lots of guys take advantage of buyer ignorance to sell clone saws as though they are as good as OEM. Although the horror stories may be exaggerated there is a very long documentation trail of poor quality and failure. Even if you haven’t seen it, many others have. You need to be painfully up front about that or your reputation will head down the toilet. And it will justify the rude behavior of the haters.

FWIW, you port work looks good. Back your work up with quality parts. Get some genuine 660s and port them. Sell both clones and OEM. Then your customers can choose and make an informed decision.

Don’t let the trolls run you off the site. Your knowledge is valuable. AS needs fresh perspectives and contributors. Welcome.
Well put and true right to the very end brother ! ;)
 

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