Munter Hitch weight limit?

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dantiff2

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Hey guys just playing around with the idea of using a munter hitch to lower while chunking, Is that a good idea? What's the limit of that belay method and will the guy holding the line be able to hold the shock load?

Dan
 
I wouldn't, because there are better options available. The bend radius on the biner doesn't give enough friction, and causes rope strength loss due to the tight bend. Most of the friction you'd be getting is rope on rope, even though both contact points are moving, it still puts undue wear on your ropes.

It would be usable in a pinch, as long as there's no shock loading, and you keep the weights low.

If I didn't have a porty or bollard on site, I'd just go old school and take a wrap or so around the tree.
 
Well my advise is like DB's; stop playing. Never liked the munter, never used it. Always avoid rope on rope... maybe in a real pinch to lower myself but I hate to see it.
 
Thanks for the replies you probably saved me some headach!

I dont have any good rigging gear (porta or bollard)

Dan
 
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Thanks for the replies you probably saved me some headach!

I dont have any good rigging gear (porpta or ballard)

Dan

The old way to apply friction is to wrap the rope around the actuall tree. it is a suitable method for most things but a porty is better.
 
The old way to apply friction is to wrap the rope around the actuall tree. it is a suitable method for most things but a porty is better.

:agree2:

Especially since your running 3 strand thats gonna hold up to natural crotch or raps around a tree. I have a Porta but do still use raps on occasion. There is nothing wrong with it. I wouldnt recommend burning up a more expensive rigging line doing it but that 3 strand will hold up well doing it.
 
I've used the munter before to hold some big weight tagging 10ft radio dishes out off cell towers on windy winter days, probably in excess of 1000lbs of force. It holds easily as long as you put a little tension on the tail of the line, and runs in a controllable manner. We were using it on two 1.5" shackles one closed with the pin running through the smooth hole on the other, the larger radius on 3/4 inch rope would definatly be necessary. I'd trust it to hold some good weight when rigging with two lines, pr can be used off the back of a p/u if no other tree is available and you don't have a porta wrap. Never seen it do more damage than natural crotch rigging would cause to a rope.
 
ive lowered 300-350lb logs with a munter. But there was NO shockloading. and you need to maintain proper pressure on the rope, where as a porta you can pretty much set and grab last minute.

to answer your question, yes it can be done. but, buy a porta. you could search the site here and probably find someone that makes a good alternative. i think maybe "pdqdl" or "nailsbeats" makes them.
 
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I've never used a Munter Hitch so I can't comment on the subject, but I can tell you that you will not be disappointed if you buy a Porta Wrap.If you can afford the porty and a good sling, then that's the way to go.:)
 
I have used it to chunk down on smaller trees but only as a messure to avoid some turf damage, so no real danger. The problem with placing the munther hith up in the tree, is that it often gets nailed into the spar, and that locks the rope up. So letting the piece ride dosnt allways go as planned, so be prepared for a ride. Its one of trics thats nice to know, but not for every situation. But its fast and easy and light. (A steel carabiner and a 120 cm climbing webbing sling)
 
Ok how about as a self belay on a long decent? Or am I better off with a figure 8? I really don't want unneeded wear and tear on the climb line. I'm thinking the munter generates more heat/friction
 
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Regarding the Munter hitch: it relies mostly on rope-rope friction to control a load. I think that using a munter should be saved for special needs, rather than as a plan for regular use.

So however much friction you apply, that is how much wear you will be putting on your rope. Your ropes will get pretty fuzzy much sooner than if you were using a different friction device. A figure-8 would be very much better for the rope, and will probably provide better control too.

... i think maybe "pdqdl" or "nailsbeats" makes them.


Not I! I could make one, but I don't think they cost that much, and I can't duplicate the cool nickle finish.
 
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I've used a munter and 8 to rappell down a spar, both have a very similar feel.. however you can do a hard lock on a rescue 8 whereas a munter, you could probably rig something up to lock it, but it would be a PITA. The other thing I noticed is that when using the 8 all the heat generated flows into the 8, the munter uses rope-on-rope so the heat is transferred into the rope itself, but dispersed over the length of the descent. Munter works well, and is controllable... but over time its bound to be much harder on the rope than an 8. All that can really be said is, do some tests to make sure you've tied it correctly and give it a try. Throw a friction hitch in above the munter as a backup, first thing you'll notice is the amount of rope fibers flying through the air haha.

edit: (One of the cool things about the munter though, is its totally reversable depending on where the load is applied it just flips itself around... the best use I've had for it is tagging things away from targets. Example: stopping large limb wood or butt wood from swinging into a building, or swinging around and damaging other trees. Makes it possible for 1 person to hold all the weight, and keeps to port-a-wrap free for lowering. Matter of fact it would probably work well on a zipline too.)
 
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i made a porta wrap the other day out of sched 40 pipe and half inch bar stock that works mint. took an hour. just make sure its fully deburred so as to be kind on your ropes.
 
A skilled groundie on a portawrap can gauge the number of wraps needed and allow you to blow big pieces and run them down to avoid shock loading to your rope, the tree and ultimately to you. Buy one or make one but trust your peers and use one.

:cheers:
 

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