My big brother milling for the first time with my 7900 and alaskan sawmill.

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Well, I see that Bob hasn't commented on the whole kneeling-down thing yet. :) :popcorn:

Anyway, my only real suggestion would be the use of kerf wedges to keep the weight of the cut board/slab from pinching the backside of the bar & chain. Not a huge issue with thin boards like this one, but thicker ones can be a problem. Other than that, the rough mill marks visible when he holds the board up are a result of the engine bogging down too much when he was pushing a bit too hard at the beginning. Seemed to have better control later on though - it's definitely a practice-makes-perfect (or thereabouts) experience.

What type/profile of chain are you using there? I haven't milled Ash personally, but that 7900 seemed to be pulling pretty well in it compared to what I would expect in the softer woods I normally work with. It was throwing some decent chips anyway.
 
Well I love seeing the look on CS millers faces after they cut their first board - It's like a kid at Xmas every time!


Well, I see that Bob hasn't commented on the whole kneeling-down thing yet. :) :popcorn:

Well , seeing as you did it then I don't need to say anything. (But I will :) - see below)

Anyway, my only real suggestion would be the use of kerf wedges to keep the weight of the cut board/slab from pinching the backside of the bar & chain. Not a huge issue with thin boards like this one, but thicker ones can be a problem. Other than that, the rough mill marks visible when he holds the board up are a result of the engine bogging down too much when he was pushing a bit too hard at the beginning. Seemed to have better control later on though - it's definitely a practice-makes-perfect (or thereabouts) experience.

Those rough marks are exacerbated by the fact that you did not use wedges but . . . .
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. . . .are actually at the other end of the end of the board and are almost certainly due to brief pauses in sawing while the operator repositions their feet. This is another reason why I like to have my logs up of the ground on a slope so I can always maintain a slight forward pressure on the saw which keeps cutting even when I move my feet. Additional forward constant pressure on the saw and hence cutting can be obtained using a lockable throttle and leaning on the saw with hip or my thigh/knees leaving my arms free to insert wedges even while the saw keeps cutting. I place the wedges and a hammer ontop of the slab I'm cutting and because I use log rails every time the mill easily passes over the top of the wedges and the hammer.
Like this
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What type/profile of chain are you using there?

3/8, full chizzy.

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And yeah, I explained to him that we weren't really doing it "the right way". The log should be up higher, and it should be at an angle so the saw can "fall" through as opposed to having to push it the whole time. And I use wedges every time, but I didn't want him to get side tracked, and I had to hold the camera. :) He prolly shoulda been kneeling, but overall it didn't matter, t'was his first board - he just wanted to run the saw.


Good criticism though. This vid really shows a full amateur at hand. It'll make for good suggestions from old timers like.... er... um.... EXPERIENCED millers like BobL to pop in and give their suggestions. :) ;)


No pun intended Bob. I've learned quite a bit from you on this site over the years, and more specifically on the Milling threads. You're a true milling veteran!! :clap:

:greenchainsaw:
 
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. . . EXPERIENCED millers like BobL to pop in and give their suggestions. :) ;)
No pun intended Bob. I've learned quite a bit from you on this site over the years, and more specifically on the Milling threads. You're a true milling veteran!!

Hang on before my head "explodes", let's put a few things in perspective here. :)

Although I've been around chainsaws and saw mills on an off (mostly off) since I was about 6 (and that is almost 50 years ago) I never actually milled a log with my own CS mill until about three years ago. Since then I estimate I have milled about 100 logs. I have also made 3 CS mills and modified 3 more for other people. Makings mills is relatively easy for me because my other hobby is making (mainly woodworking) tools and so making/modifying a CS mill is just a natural extension of that.

Like anything, the more you know the more you realize how little you know so I don't consider this amount of experience to be anywhere near veteran status. One might be able to say because of my training and experience as an experimental scientists I'm a fairly fast and focussed learner, I (probably over) analyse everything I do, see and read about in critical and systematic manner, and usually transfer what I know about one topic and a bunch of sources fairly easily into another - that's my day job - but it sure is nice to be able to apply it to a hobby!

The biggest bunch of sources by far is this forum - I sometimes think I might even be a "child of this forum". But there are plenty of other members, that can more rightfully be called veterans, that I have suckled on to get to what I know and can do, eg Aggiewoodbutcher, Woodshop, CasetForrest, Dustytools, BlueRider, BMorgan, Sawyer Rob , are but to name a few. Some of those are no longer posting here which is unfortunate because they have a lot to offer. So I'm still just learning just like everyone else.

I've found I really enjoy the milling process probably even more than the product. I would not be all that upset if all those slabs and boards I cut were to catch fire and disappear. I have had awesome fun making them and would be cutting more but I am close to running out of storage room so have become a lot pickier about what I mill. That's one reason why you don't see me posting a lot about actual milling these days.
 
3/8, full chizzy.

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And yeah, I explained to him that we weren't really doing it "the right way". The log should be up higher, and it should be at an angle so the saw can "fall" through as opposed to having to push it the whole time. And I use wedges every time, but I didn't want him to get side tracked, and I had to hold the camera. :) He prolly shoulda been kneeling, but overall it didn't matter, t'was his first board - he just wanted to run the saw.


Good criticism though. This vid really shows a full amateur at hand. It'll make for good suggestions from old timers like.... er... um.... EXPERIENCED millers like BobL to pop in and give their suggestions. :) ;)


No pun intended Bob. I've learned quite a bit from you on this site over the years, and more specifically on the Milling threads. You're a true milling veteran!! :clap:

:greenchainsaw:

WoodChucker81, You might want to try some milling (ripping) chain, in case your not allready. The cutters are usually aound 10 deg. instead of 25-30 deg. on most standard cross cutting chain. Helps for a smoother cut. Just a suggestion. Looks like your having fun and well on your way. Thats the best part.:)

Gregg,
 
Nothing special. Just my big bro milling a small piece of ash. It's his first time.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HThLErwgoRE

My first reaction was to notice all the stopping while the throttle is full on. (I did this too when I first started, makes nasty marks) My second reaction is that I'd richen that saw up if it was mine, for milling I like to hear a little four stroke in the cut full throttle and I hear none here. Maybe you have that H needle in the perfect spot, but I like error on the side of caution and run a bit richer then this saw is.
 
Not in the cut the saw is peaking at about 12,200 rpms - the factory setting is 13,500. It may not sound rich but it definitely is. My fuel ratio is 40:1 as well.

Any richer and I'd imagine that the exhaust would be pouring out tar. :)


Good observation though. Rep'd. :greenchainsaw:
 
Not in the cut the saw is peaking at about 12,200 rpms - the factory setting is 13,500. It may not sound rich but it definitely is. My fuel ratio is 40:1 as well.

Any richer and I'd imagine that the exhaust would be pouring out tar.

It's a subtle point but it is still possible to seize a saw at 40:1 just as easily as 50:1. Its air to gas ratio that determines leaness not oil:air or oil:gas.
 

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