My es bar is not true

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056kid

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So I am working cramming 10 lbs of **** into a 5 lb box and (all my work stuff) to go back east and i look down the rails of the 32'' baar that I got with my 660. Its like 3 or 4mm out of true!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YOu can put it on the concrete floor and on one side you can tap the middle againist the floor & theother you can tap the edges on the floor:chainsaw: I have only bared in to a stump or two. that is complete bull ####!! I payed good money to a stihl dealer and got ****. Now I am wondering what to do. Should I clean up the oil and saw dust off the bar and go raise hell to the rep? or am I screwed? By the way the guy that works at the local stihl place dosent know a saw from the hole in his ass. I orderd a DP for the saw when I orderd the saw, it never came and he tried to sell me 44/6 DP after I went back to inquire...

Last bar i got from Balieys was out of true as well.
 
You sure you didn't reef on the saw a little in the stump? 32" bar is pretty long and is prone to some bending no matter what brand.

Maybe cram it in somewhere that it got a little bent out of whack? ...and that doesn't mean near the dumpster behind the tavern either... :laugh:

Gary
 
I mean, I dont think so, hell the 28'' that came on my 372 back in 04 had less bow in it than this bar and the paint ws worn off of it a looong time ago. there is a suspicious dent in the rubber on the handlebar of the saw as well. I believe it was probably damaged in shipping. Shipping that was supposed to take 2 weeks but took over a month...
 
I'd just run it, I've tweaked them that much and run them with out any issues. You can always take it back, you can also use a hydraulic press to straighten it out as well.
 
I believe it was probably damaged in shipping. Shipping that was supposed to take 2 weeks but took over a month...

Well that sucks...

I'd just run it, I've tweaked them that much and run them with out any issues. You can always take it back, you can also use a hydraulic press to straighten it out as well.

Or a couple of 2X4's and your foot works too. :)

Gary
 
I am confused. Who bent your bar, was it bent and you made a couple of cuts and did not notice? Was it bent in shipping or did you bend it when you bared a stump or two? Whatever bared a stump means.

If it was straight when you bought it why would you bother your dealer about it?

A few mm should come out of the bar and not leave a trace.
 
Im sure it will cut fine until it has a bout dead chain on it. Its just the principal of the whole thing, I should have just purchased the powerhead only. But I guess I had high hopes as far as service seeing that the place is called "Logger supply", that could not be farther from the truth..
I know I can get it just about true, but damnit I should not have to do so after dropping 1200.00 for a NEW saw.....\


Joesawer, There is no way that I did the damage, the saw has sat in my garage and cut a face out of an old Pondo stump. I just looked down the rail and noticed that it wasent straight.
 
Im sure it will cut fine until it has a bout dead chain on it. Its just the principal of the whole thing, I should have just purchased the powerhead only. But I guess I had high hopes as far as service seeing that the place is called "Logger supply", that could not be farther from the truth..
I know I can get it just about true, but damnit I should not have to do so after dropping 1200.00 for a NEW saw.....\


Joesawer, There is no way that I did the damage, the saw has sat in my garage and cut a face out of an old Pondo stump. I just looked down the rail and noticed that it wasent straight.



If it is bent 3 or 4 mm it wont cut worth a crap. It will start a cut and sieze up tight and leave you cussing.
Find out just where it is bent and cut a kerf to stick the bar in just short of the bend, then pull it past the bend with the pistol grip until it springs back straight. You can straighten it the easiest while it is on the saw.
 
If you have a real blacksmith around I'd bet he could straighten it out a just a few minutes. Maybe ask a farrier or two if they could recommend anyone. If not then I would employ a 4-6 lb sledge with a short handle and an anvil or a piece of I-beam. A hammer lighter than 4lbs won't work, it will damage the bar. Like Gary sad sometimes if the bar is bowed then body weight apllied a little at a time will work.

Chain Bar Repairing in Portland OR will make it better than new.
http://www.chainbar.com/index.html
 
complaining to the dealer will be a headache and not be worth the trouble. I'd bore into a stump deeper than where its bent, take it off the saw (just my way) and work the bend out. You'll get it true after a few minutes. And I don't see the bend coming back when I do this.
 
Im gonna get it good and hot and let a big oak sit on it for a while. I have real good luck doing that with pro lite bars.

I have always done the bore & bend trick to get "buck ####ed" tips back in line. a twisted tip can really make a man bonkers..
 
I just had an Oregon bar that was bowed, it was out about 3/16 over its length. This bar came on a new saw and I didn't notice it until I took it off to flip it, so I had run it a good bit. I emailed Oregon Tech Support and they suggested I try to bend it before sending it back. I ended up standing on it while it was blocked on pieces of 2X4. I could bow it 3 inches until it touched the floor but it didn't take the bow out. Oregon issued me a pick up tag and I took it to the post office. A few weeks later I got a new bar. Great service from Oregon.

If the dealer who sold you the saw won't help you, you should ask Sthil to fix or replace this bar. Have you asked the selling dealer for help?
 
I just had an Oregon bar that was bowed, it was out about 3/16 over its length. This bar came on a new saw and I didn't notice it until I took it off to flip it, so I had run it a good bit. I emailed Oregon Tech Support and they suggested I try to bend it before sending it back. I ended up standing on it while it was blocked on pieces of 2X4. I could bow it 3 inches until it touched the floor but it didn't take the bow out. Oregon issued me a pick up tag and I took it to the post office. A few weeks later I got a new bar. Great service from Oregon.

If the dealer who sold you the saw won't help you, you should ask Sthil to fix or replace this bar. Have you asked the selling dealer for help?

I dont feel that asking the stupid rep will get me anywhere. I dont wanna get short with him and be taking steps backwards either....
 
Are you sure the concrete was level? Ha. ha. I'd try to bend it back myself. In a stump seems to work the best.
 
You're gonna have a time getting a long gentle bow out of a bar by bending it in a stump. It ain't gonna happen is my take on it. A bend that you can see and locate, yes.........

056kid, you're not going to get far without asking someone to fix this -- unless all you want is us to feel sorry for you. If you gave good money for the saw then get them to fix it.
 
You're gonna have a time getting a long gentle bow out of a bar by bending it in a stump. It ain't gonna happen is my take on it. A bend that you can see and locate, yes.........

056kid, you're not going to get far without asking someone to fix this -- unless all you want is us to feel sorry for you. If you gave good money for the saw then get them to fix it.

What I am thinking is gonna happen is that they will tell me that I did it.. I know I didnt do it, unless my bar was made with lead or somthing. Feel sorry for me? no, It is somewhat of an angry rant though...
 
I will give you $20 bucks for it and fix it myself if you give up on it!


Bent/curved/tweaked bars are not that big if a deal when you start running longer bars!:dizzy:
 

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