My first spilces

[John Paul Sanborn]

tenex I&I rigging slings

Tenex balancer

That is so easy with a locking brummel

my fid is a coat hanger on a 'biner and instead of a hollow fid, I used another peice of coat hangre to pull the first splice thtough. Had to streach the hole once with a needle nose plier, but I knocked all that off in less maybe 45 min.

Quick check on the internet has 3/8" Tenex Coated Red Price: $0.32 / FT

Say 20 ft in the balancer, that is less the 8 bucks. Depends on shipping on a spool I guess.

 

[treeclimber165]

Originally posted by John Paul Sanborn
[B
That is so easy with a lcoking brommel

my fid is a caot habger on a biner and instead of a hollow fid, I used another peice of coad hangre to pull the first splice thtough. [/B]

Can someone translate this? I have no idea what you are saying, John. Sorry.

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

Locking brummel would be the splice and not hook device (that would be in the brummel eyesplice that boaters named splice for i believe) i think? Making permanent, strong eye easily. Especially Brummel Splice favored for Spectra (i think) as my beloved Bowline loses like 70% strength, instead of maintaining that much!!

To pass rope thru itself and make self trapping configuration for permanent, non-slipping set eye, i belive JP is pushing with coat hanger so far then drawing it thru with another coat hanger.

i guess Big guys should only use lil'words! Mostly of mono-syllabic utterances; though honestly, jest betwixt you and i; he didn't get all those write either!

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

OK, my fingers are too big for the keyboard. I gotta look at the keys to find them.

A locking bummel is tucking one end through the rope, then tucking the long end through the tail of the first tuck. Then bury the tapered tail.

To get the second eye done you need to tuck the first eye through the tail of the second. Pro's have a special hollow bar to facilitate this. I used a peice of coat anger and a needle nose.

The slings might cost me maybe $1.50 to make.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Now let's see a splice on some climbing lines, hot shot.

 

[Tim Gardner]

Brummell Eye Splice

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

I skip 3-9, that looks like a "mobius Brummle that is suposed to be the best way to do Ultra Tech.

 

[Stumper]

JPS, Your spilces look like fine splices! I have to admit that spliceing braided ropes intimidates me. I use a lot of 3strand for pole pruner pulls, slings,personal lanyards. I ENJOY splicing 3 strand rope but fids give me fits.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

I just do steps 1,2 then skip to 11,12.

The result is the same, the only thing is you need to pull the entire tail through, but it save a lot of screwing around, especailly with short ropes.

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

i kinda gave up on splicing 16 strand eyes long ago; broke one of the wands cable trying to hard, Brion Toss did fix it but said they could not to do that again etc.

So for tails and lanyards i use 3strand eyes, very easy,clean to make. Been doing it for years, with no hockling in use, 3 strand tails seem to grip braided lines for friction hitches amazingly well, with diffrent characteristics than other lines do.

i use a double bowline on ropes for temporary eye. It weighs in @ about 70% efficient, easier to thread a rope in with a throwline then put eye on like that cuz we had more problem with eyes getting hung than plain rope, the stress of the loads don't pull on the exact same spot day after day etc.

This looks like a real good, economical trick JP! (Dang i hate saying that!) How many uses are you contriving for all of these slings?

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

The balancer is obviouse, can also be used as an anchor for a PW I guess.

The I&I are intended as rigging slings to girth hitch to a load. Either for standard rigging or for speed line apps.


When i figure out the hollow fid thing to make a termination splce (handle on a woopie) I'll start making loopies too.

I just might keep a spool fo tenex in the truck so I can make slings in the feild if I need to.

 

[jsirbasku]

bulk tenex

JP,

HOws it going? Do you have a good source for purchasing bulk tenex?
or
do you have an excess which you are looking to sell some?

JSirbasku

pS- will we see you next month at the MNTCC?

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

I'd like to come out for the MN summer convention, but could only swing it if I had several days of work lined up out there. It's a good six our drive.

I could loan my winch for belay on one of the event if needed.

Sean gave me a couple hanks of tenex to play with after he was done with the demo. I was able to find one listing on the internet at .32 per foot, 600ft would be under $200 before shipping.

I have an enquirey with a local company on a spool of 3/8, red coat, single weave.

 

[Nickrosis]

Tim Gardner's site shows a good way to splice - once you get good at it, you can splice faster. For me, though, I just went ahead and did it the dirty, straightforward way - which works and delivers the same results.

A fid, by the way, is an aluminum tube with a handle on one end and the other end is open, cut at an angle.

Brion Toss's splicing tool has a piece of cord that comes out and locks onto the rope that you're trying to pull through. It can break, and I recommend (don't know where I heard it) replacing it with a Kevlar cord - that doesn't break!

Nick

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

A fid is anything used to fiddle the rope through it'self. You are refering to a hollow fid.

Sean Geer uses piano wire on a biner, so I decided to try a coat hanger.

 

[Tim Gardner]

My first splice in Samson BlueStreak™. I am very happy with the results (although it uses 28” of rope not counting the eye). Used a home made wire fid to make the splice with and it was easy. I am looking forward to ordering Pro Stripe from Sherrill. Pro Stripe should splice just as easy, I guess I will find out soon.

 

[Nickrosis]

Very nice. I would recommend pulling it in a little bit more when you're making it so the mark disappears.

There's two schools of thought when it comes the size of the eye. Small and tight so it grips the biner (albeit loosely) vs. Large enough to girth hitch the biner. Alternatively, you can make it fit a thimble...

On my next climbing line, I'll make the eye big enough to girth hitch to the biner - I think it would be better.

Nickrosis

 

[Tim Gardner]

The mark helps me do a quick check on the splice. I have been splicing braided ropes for over 5 years now and have never had an eye slip on me but I still like the idea of a quick visual indicator. This is my first 16 strand splice and it helps me have a little more confidence in the rope.

 

[Nickrosis]

So you make an extra mark so you can watch for any movement? That's a good idea.

 

[Tim Gardner]

Not an extra mark, I just don’t bury the mark all the way into the splice.

As far as the size of the eye goes, my preference is the size like in the picture. I clip my ropes on the biner next to the left dee ring on my saddle. That size makes it easy to put in and out of the biner one handed. I guess it is a matter of preference.