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The drill will not lift a man if it is natural crotched doubled line... You need to set a pulley and even then it is highly underpowered, without a little help from the climber... I think I was around 170 when I last tried it.

I personally don't criticize another climber for one handing a saw in certain situations.. Though I do believe that it should be mandatory for every new climber to be trained to keep two hands on the saw. I actually have heard of one minor cut to the hand caused by two handing, when the climber was trying to keep two hands on the saw then catch the limb real quick before it fell... We;ve been all through the subject in a previous thread as I recall.

OSHA does not apply to me as I AM self employed. I thinik ANSI guidlines are a reall goood idea to follow in most situations.. Though not all... See the one handing a chainsaw thread.. It can be done safely if you know what you are doing and don't make a mental error.. That said I did recently hear of a highly experieinced bucket operator catching a 200t in the face... No doubt he was one handing it... I'll post more on that after I talk to him and get the facts straight.

Good for you to put that tree on the ground in 2 hours... So don't take this the wrong way... it is often easier to point out mistakes as a way of learning what not to do, rather than pionting out what you did right... which speaks for itself...

Some one earlier mentioned "liking the humboldt"... Well the humboldt is the WRONG falling cut for that situation. It would be different if you were milling the log... That drop calls for an open face notch, top cut first. No need to go deep from the look of it either.. Fast, easy, accurate, reliable... (once again I sense "my smug and condescending attitude" coming through) Maybe I could word it different or pose it as a question or something, and I call like I see it ... That is just the plain truth of it... Learn from it or ignore it as you will.

Keep up the good work.. stay safe...
 
Yep, I was gonna say something about the humbolt too, but I knew nails just wanted to show off every fancy trick he could on that vid - nothing really wrong with that, treeguys will be treeguys. lol.

I cant do a humbolt to save my life though, real awkward for me and my accuracy goes way off (kind of like just starting out). I have used it in the past to try and get something to jump a stone wall and such. There is a place for it in residential treework, just rarely imo.
 
The drill will not lift a man if it is natural crotched doubled line... You need to set a pulley and even then it is highly underpowered, without a little help from the climber... I think I was around 170 when I last tried it.

I personally don't criticize another climber for one handing a saw in certain situations.. Though I do believe that it should be mandatory for every new climber to be trained to keep two hands on the saw. I actually have heard of one minor cut to the hand caused by two handing, when the climber was trying to keep two hands on the saw then catch the limb real quick before it fell... We;ve been all through the subject in a previous thread as I recall.

OSHA does not apply to me as I AM self employed. I thinik ANSI guidlines are a reall goood idea to follow in most situations.. Though not all... See the one handing a chainsaw thread.. It can be done safely if you know what you are doing and don't make a mental error.. That said I did recently hear of a highly experieinced bucket operator catching a 200t in the face... No doubt he was one handing it... I'll post more on that after I talk to him and get the facts straight.

Good for you to put that tree on the ground in 2 hours... So don't take this the wrong way... it is often easier to point out mistakes as a way of learning what not to do, rather than pionting out what you did right... which speaks for itself...

Some one earlier mentioned "liking the humboldt"... Well the humboldt is the WRONG falling cut for that situation. It would be different if you were milling the log... That drop calls for an open face notch, top cut first. No need to go deep from the look of it either.. Fast, easy, accurate, reliable... (once again I sense "my smug and condescending attitude" coming through) Maybe I could word it different or pose it as a question or something, and I call like I see it ... That is just the plain truth of it... Learn from it or ignore it as you will.

Keep up the good work.. stay safe...

Murphy, the guy wanted firewood and got a good, flat, symetrical butt piece, that'll stand nice for him as he splits it with a maul. The depth of the notch was to make it a little easier for the guys pulling.
 
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why didn't you just drop the whole tree where you were sending all those branches? good job though. those techniques come in real handy when you need them. that spider jack is sweet.
 
Murphy, the guy wanted firewood and got a good, flat, symetrical butt piece, that'll stand nice for him as he splits it with a maul. The depth of the notch was to make it a little easier for the guys pulling.

OK that makes sense then... And I'd call that good customer service.. cause if it was me, he'd be dealing with the open face notch on the butt cut... He'd have had more wood too though, as it could have been cut a good bit lower with an open face... and with the pull line, and all that open space for a drop zone... the open face could have been 6" deep or less and still been 100% reliable with a good back cut... So it wouldn;t have been much of a factor in dealing with the wood...

And I guess what I really think is that the humboldt is just so much harder to cut, matching up the cuts and all on the upward sloping cut... a major hassle... That's just me though.. Loggers seem to have no problem with it.. I AM just an arborist..
 
OK that makes sense then... And I'd call that good customer service.. cause if it was me, he'd be dealing with the open face notch on the butt cut... He'd have had more wood too though, as it could have been cut a good bit lower with an open face... and with the pull line, and all that open space for a drop zone... the open face could have been 6" deep or less and still been 100% reliable with a good back cut... So it wouldn;t have been much of a factor in dealing with the wood...

And I guess what I really think is that the humboldt is just so much harder to cut, matching up the cuts and all on the upward sloping cut... a major hassle... That's just me though.. Loggers seem to have no problem with it.. I AM just an arborist..

Dan? Can I ask you a question? Good, here goes: What in the hell are you talking about?
That whole " the humbolt is WRONG" thing? The rest don't make to much sense to me either. HUH?
 
Oh and thanks again for that oak log Murhpy, I am burning it up right now... been burning it for quite some time now.
 
The few benefits of the humboldt rarely outweigh its liabilities in suburban arboriculture.. Used by loggers to reduce breakage during the fall and also to leave a clean but log with no need to make another finish cut, the humboldt is useful in cases where log value is a concern... or in this case where nails was leaving a full round of firewood on the but...

The open face (when made properly) is much easier to make and easier to gun, and far harder to mismatch cuts on, and when combined with a good back cut, is equally as effective at preventing the log from kicking back, which is also rarely a concern in falling backyard trees.

Anyone cutting a humboldt on a regular basis in suburban arboriculture has not been properly trained..

ps got another oak behind a gate.. standing dead in wayne coming down soon..
 
The few benefits of the humboldt rarely outweigh its liabilities in suburban arboriculture.. Used by loggers to reduce breakage during the fall and also to leave a clean but log with no need to make another finish cut, the humboldt is useful in cases where log value is a concern... or in this case where nails was leaving a full round of firewood on the but...

The open face (when made properly) is much easier to make and easier to gun, and far harder to mismatch cuts on, and when combined with a good back cut, is equally as effective at preventing the log from kicking back, which is also rarely a concern in falling backyard trees.

Anyone cutting a humboldt on a regular basis in suburban arboriculture has not been properly trained..

ps got another oak behind a gate.. standing dead in wayne coming down soon..

You're kidding, right?
 
The few benefits of the humboldt rarely outweigh its liabilities in suburban arboriculture.. Used by loggers to reduce breakage during the fall and also to leave a clean but log with no need to make another finish cut, the humboldt is useful in cases where log value is a concern... or in this case where nails was leaving a full round of firewood on the but...

The open face (when made properly) is much easier to make and easier to gun, and far harder to mismatch cuts on, and when combined with a good back cut, is equally as effective at preventing the log from kicking back, which is also rarely a concern in falling backyard trees.

Anyone cutting a humboldt on a regular basis in suburban arboriculture has not been properly trained..

ps got another oak behind a gate.. standing dead in wayne coming down soon..



Maybe you have not been trained right. Just because you have trouble with it does not make it wrong for everyone.
 
Joe and Elisabeth,
I thought I might get some bites on that statememt...

Humboldt in my experience is used by fallers, either that have been trained in loggging operations or trained by a logger. So they use the homboldt because they have been trained that way. What other reason is there?

Make your argument.. I have made mine... Oh and BTW it's not really mine... It's Tim Ard's and other pro teachers...

Why cut the humboldt... it's harder to make... easier to make a mistake on.. harder to get the gun perfect etc...

I think this is a good teaching piece for everyone here. Just becasue a technique is right in the woods, doesn't make it right in the backyard... This is a very important concept for the suburban arborist to understand... Blindly following the lead of loggers is a MISTAKE!
 
The few benefits of the humboldt rarely outweigh its liabilities in suburban arboriculture.. Used by loggers to reduce breakage during the fall and also to leave a clean but log with no need to make another finish cut, the humboldt is useful in cases where log value is a concern... or in this case where nails was leaving a full round of firewood on the but...

The open face (when made properly) is much easier to make and easier to gun, and far harder to mismatch cuts on, and when combined with a good back cut, is equally as effective at preventing the log from kicking back, which is also rarely a concern in falling backyard trees.

Anyone cutting a humboldt on a regular basis in suburban arboriculture has not been properly trained..

ps got another oak behind a gate.. standing dead in wayne coming down soon..


Well if its easier you are looking for... then get someone else to do it. What could be easier than that:) No, no, just a joke. I know its better if you just do it yourself.

I put a humbolt on this which I thought a good choice. I notched it 5 feet above the ground.
sycamore3.jpg


I was figuring to get the butt on the ground first, worked well. I don't think any other notch would have fit the bill. You?




I wouldn't say I use the humbo all the time but use it regularly. It seems easier in the tree with a 20 to cut a humbo with the top of the bar and let it fly. Sometimes in this situation it doesn't matter you just need a notch and if its upside down its fine.
I do also agree the open face is right on. I use that a lot to but mostly if I am cutting the trunk close to the ground I cut the notch as low as possible but very wide which kinda acts like open faced pastrami on rye. Now you are down on the mainline so you should know how good those sandwhiches can be. (sorry, its tough, I know.)
 
I couldn't tell, did your ground guys have hard hats on? Also by the clothes you were wearing you looked to be a pretty boy who has to dress nice and to look at your equipment you are one of those guys that may be OCD as it looks like it is kept up and well taken care of. I wouldn't call you on that stuff but that's the way I like to operate myself :clap:. The ground guys did a very nice job by not stressing your stuff and seems they helped you alot by controlling the stuff and keeping it from reacting in a way as to hit you. I liked your climbing gear as well you were able to be very fluid in your movements because of it. I rate the vid (and I am being very picky) 1-10 as a 7 mainly because the you need a High Def camera and more sun . Over-all it kicked ass and the music fit just right.:clap::clap:
 
I couldn't tell, did your ground guys have hard hats on? Also by the clothes you were wearing you looked to be a pretty boy who has to dress nice and to look at your equipment you are one of those guys that may be OCD as it looks like it is kept up and well taken care of. I wouldn't call you on that stuff but that's the way I like to operate myself :clap:. The ground guys did a very nice job by not stressing your stuff and seems they helped you alot by controlling the stuff and keeping it from reacting in a way as to hit you. I liked your climbing gear as well you were able to be very fluid in your movements because of it. I rate the vid (and I am being very picky) 1-10 as a 7 mainly because the you need a High Def camera and more sun . Over-all it kicked ass and the music fit just right.:clap::clap:

Pretty Boy? Yup, Nails a movie star now:)
 
I couldn't tell, did your ground guys have hard hats on? Also by the clothes you were wearing you looked to be a pretty boy who has to dress nice and to look at your equipment you are one of those guys that may be OCD as it looks like it is kept up and well taken care of. I wouldn't call you on that stuff but that's the way I like to operate myself :clap:. The ground guys did a very nice job by not stressing your stuff and seems they helped you alot by controlling the stuff and keeping it from reacting in a way as to hit you. I liked your climbing gear as well you were able to be very fluid in your movements because of it. I rate the vid (and I am being very picky) 1-10 as a 7 mainly because the you need a High Def camera and more sun . Over-all it kicked ass and the music fit just right.:clap::clap:

Thanks B, it was either the Carharts or a suit.:agree2: I'll be sure to let the sun know it needs to be on the ball next time. :greenchainsaw:
 
Well if its easier you are looking for... then get someone else to do it. What could be easier than that:) No, no, just a joke. I know its better if you just do it yourself.

I put a humbolt on this which I thought a good choice. I notched it 5 feet above the ground.
sycamore3.jpg
Hey Dan, what's up with them stubs?
 
Hey Dan, what's up with them stubs?

AAAAH, they are not stubs but horns and those horns are useful... as long as they are not in the way. And in this case they weren't. I didn't end up using them but sometimes I will get a choker sling at the top of a horn like that and tie in on it to work the bigger side of the crotch. Also they are good for working your way down, something to hold on to and keep your rope around.

july_098.jpg


Now I can switch sides with everything and still have a TIP above me for the big cuts. I climb a little high on this side to allow for the limb to drop further out from the trunk, it was roped down. The other side came off a little closer to the Y but I still left a little something to keep my rope around as I rappelled.
 

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