my least favorite tree

[ramanujan]

i removed this deodor cedar about 14 months ago. i put taglines on the tops and had the two ground fellows pull them into the large drop zone. however, I misjudged the weight of one of the leftmost tops and did not place the tagline high enough so they were unable to pull the top over (very heavy wood and foliage) and it broke off backwards, landing on the building below. the butt landed on the concrete wall and so caused minimal damage.

but i post this simply because it taught me that it's always worth the the extra minute or so to put that line up past where you know it is high enough, because man that's a bad feeling to hear the snap and watch the piece fall directly onto what you're trying to avoid. my record of property damage is clear save for this incident.

multi-topped cedar

 

[MasterBlaster]

I allways set my line 3/4 at least, higher sometimes. And I allways run it down the backside to secure it.

Yowsa!

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

AS high as I can get substanial wood. What constitutes that is species dependant. Bur oak is smaller the box elder.

 

[geofore]

nice tree

Muti-topped tree, you get extra chances to test your skills (luck). Tie higher than you think it needs to be if you don't trust your luck. I don't like these ones because there is usually one in there that wants to break away while you're trying to climb it so tie into more than one when you climb. If it's windy tie them together so more than one has to let go to dump you out while you're up there and don't forget to untie the one you're going to drop. A FUN tree from the looks of it.

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

i think that a deeper hinge can undermnine the C.o.B. more for easier directional fall; also dropping hinge lower to give line more leverage can help. so when walking close to the line, or just daily maximizing, perhaps a helpful point.

The length from the hinge to C.o.B. is one lever, hinge to line height is another lever. You need enough leverage /MA (3/1 on ground to pull top out?) to first choose direction, then speed or hinge strength, depending on how effort above choosing direction is acheived. This is why i popint to tapered hinge, so that offside directional pull can be neutralized, so that all effort goes into pulling spar faster, or more usually forcing stronger hinge for more slow and controlled fall.

Green end weight is easy to miscalculate, then especially when fruiting (citrus, pecans, acorns) it all effects the C.o.B. point and pressure.

i like on these climbing 1 spar, and setting all the high lines i need with short lines (20-40'), to attatch main line to for each pull with out time, energy, risk of seperate climbs. Even 1 that saves 10', saves 10' reclimb; this also rationalizes climbing extra high, and doing a bunch right, from easiset spar to reach all.