My muffler mod 372

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Brent Nowell

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tried to keep this one from being a hack job and took my time. Original hole was only about 5/8” or so, which I thought was plenty big enough. But works dried up right now, sitting at home trying to find things to do. Was looking at the 372 and a piece of 1” steel tubing and I was sure I could do a decent job on this.
Cut a small piece and studied the angle at where I wanted to place the pipe carefully. Will it be in the way? Will it plug the exhaust when it’s butted up to the bark?
So wanted to come in at the same angle as the original exhaust was shooting out and drilled a small hole. Used a uni bit (stepper bit) and finished the hole at an angle. It was pretty much the same outer diameter as the tubing.
Fitted the tube and found the angle way to high. So I shaped the bottom of the hole to lower the angle, after an hour I got it. Had a nice tight fit all round and began to sand off paint and fluxed surfaces.
Used brass flux coated brazing rods and a small cutting torch to do it. Torch is a 100$ oxy/map pos and it was extremely hard to dial it in. But once I got the proper flow of oxygen it was hot enough to get the rods melting really quick.
Cut the old slot off and filled the hole with some flat iron, brazed that too. Didn’t need two holes for two reasons. Noise and crap falling in.
Recessed the tubing about 1.5” back into the muffler to help with noise. More surface area inside to help absorb sound more.
Overall turned out really good. Angle is just right.
Used engine heat paint low gloss for finish, 3 coats. Stuck a heat gun up to the outlet on high setting and baked paint right on, worked great.
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Saw responded very well, noticed right away that throttle response was much faster. I could never ever get this saw to have the same throttle response as the 395xp. No matter how hard I tried adjusting the low and throttle it always seemed to have just that ever so slight delay. And now it’s gone :)
Comments welcome!
 
I did a similar mod on a 359. Same brazing process but a little different angle on the pipe. I love the deeper throaty sound and certainly helps throttle response.
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Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk
 
Yota that looks very similar. What kind of brazing rod is that? Or is that tig?
Also you should ream your pipes, it makes a difference. However it may be big enough of a hole that it may not :)

I found it was very difficult to keep the metal from oxidizing with the flux coated rods. I used a high temp white paste flux but it is not rated for the heat of grazing temps... point being does anyone know of a flux that can withstand brazing temps?
I am a commercial plumber by trade and I solder almost every day. Brazing is a bit of a new ball game for me. Copper brazing is incredibly easy and requires no flux with the right rod. But steel to steel is a different animal.

Ronaldo I love the sound too, especially at a low 2200 idle
 
Mig. Pipes are about 2” total length. Everyone and there mom has modded a 372 muffler like this. Simple and effective. This is probably the third thread I’ve posted in about modding 372 mufflers.
 
Yota that looks very similar. What kind of brazing rod is that? Or is that tig?
Also you should ream your pipes, it makes a difference. However it may be big enough of a hole that it may not :)

I found it was very difficult to keep the metal from oxidizing with the flux coated rods. I used a high temp white paste flux but it is not rated for the heat of grazing temps... point being does anyone know of a flux that can withstand brazing temps?
I am a commercial plumber by trade and I solder almost every day. Brazing is a bit of a new ball game for me. Copper brazing is incredibly easy and requires no flux with the right rod. But steel to steel is a different animal.

Ronaldo I love the sound too, especially at a low 2200 idle
Borax from the washing isle in the grocery store.
 
Running the saw will certainly cure the paint. Be careful with it until you have a chance to run it and cure.

Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk
Exactly, this paint is really durable once cured. I used it to paint some of my guns about ten years ago. They are bush and truck guns and they have stood up incredibly well after they were baked in an oven.
A good hard run with the saw in warming weather will absolutely cure it after a tank of gas.
Just a tip, if you use this paint for other things in which you want the finish to look decent after curing, wait 24 hours after your last coat before applying heat. Also you only need roughly half of the heat it’s rated for at 20-30 minutes for it to cure. Good practice for things you want to turn out nice like a rifle. For this muffler I cured it within and hour and used more heat than I should so some of the gloss disappeared. For a muffler I just want to protect it from rust is all.

Just remember that header paints usually require a primer before painting, without a primer it will come off even after baking with something as simple as your finger nail! The paint pictured has a primer built in, lower heat rating but well within 2 stroke chainsaw exhaust temps.
 

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After seeing this, I've been thinking about doing that to my 365 special... But, I think I'll order a muffler from china and do it to that, and install it. Then if it goes wrong, I haven't ruined the original part.
 
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