My Wood Spliter Fab pics.

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Gink, nice looking work. If possible, I would also suggest keeping your pump below the oil level. Notice, I said below the oil level, not tank. The pumps will create a suction, but there is the first few moments that the pump will only have the residual oil for lube, until it can pick up the oil from the tank.

The only other thing I would suggest, is to really study the working height of the beam. Actually take a board at xx height and set a log on it. Adjust the height and try again. Make is so that you are not stooping. Just one dudes opinion.
 
Gink, nice looking work. If possible, I would also suggest keeping your pump below the oil level. Notice, I said below the oil level, not tank. The pumps will create a suction, but there is the first few moments that the pump will only have the residual oil for lube, until it can pick up the oil from the tank.

The only other thing I would suggest, is to really study the working height of the beam. Actually take a board at xx height and set a log on it. Adjust the height and try again. Make is so that you are not stooping. Just one dudes opinion.

+1 Frank, it's looking excellent! I agree with that Jags about the height. I'm not sure about the pump deal as I've also seen several above the tank (Pricey ones like TW too) although mine is below but it's also on a verticle shaft engine.

Since you've got both motors, I'd try the 5hp and see if will run the 16gpm. I think it will but is at the low end where as the 11hp is overkill for 4" cyl and 16gpm pump. Ideal would be 8hp but I'll bet the 5 will do it. Should cycle fast too. Definately get the beam height right for you. Just a little low and it's really uncomfortable. Keep them pix coming. :cheers:
By the way I've been able too post more than 3 pix. Just make sure that each time you add one into the insert image icon, that you hit the enter key too skip down too the next line for the next one.:clap:
 
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Yes, the working height is important to me, if not the most important part of building my own(besides the axle and wheels out of my way) I'm going to tack weld the axle and such together and actually run it with my Bobcat to try and make sure everything is comfortable to use and I will make the adjustments as needed before glueing it permenant. I got the push plate done last night and am still confused on what type of adj. 4-way I'm wanting to try, that isn't good. I think I'm going to use the type of wedge that nikocker has on his TW and make some sort of deal for the 4-way seperate of that, I have a idea but I'm not so convinced it will be productive. I will have more pics later. Thanks Guys:)
 
Baer with me while I attempt to try posting more pictures:dizzy:
For thost of you who thought I was going overboard and over building will love the push plate. For those of you who know steel the plate is made out of 50ksi mat'l (kips sq. in.) 1 kip is 1,000 pounds. it was a base plate for a structural column that gor drilled wrong at the shop and was chucked in the dumpster, it's 1.25 thick! Enjoy

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gink, what welder are you using and also type of wire, gas, volts and wire speed.. are you running spray or no? doesnt look like it but might be... and on ur bevil weld. what did you put on the ends in one pf ur pics.. looks like aluminum or something?
 
gink, what welder are you using and also type of wire, gas, volts and wire speed.. are you running spray or no? doesnt look like it but might be... and on ur bevil weld. what did you put on the ends in one pf ur pics.. looks like aluminum or something?

It's a 1987 200 amp Hobart Beta-mig, I bought it for junk and had a capacitor bank and contactor put into it from a place I used to work for, it's one of the best single phase welding machines I've ever used period. It has a function on it called noodleing for welding thin sheet metal, I've never seen that on another industrial mig. Unfortunatley I don't know what the IPM and volts/amps are it has it's "own" way of indexing the speeds like 1,2,3. Thats one feature I dislike. It's a short circuit welder and on the end of the bevels is porcelian. We have to use them for bevels to cap the ends so the weld is full to the end of the rolled edge of the plate. It's basically a porcelian dam that is held on with extreme high temp tape. Gas... is a 75/25 mix argon co2 and .035 wire ER70???? I'd have to go and look at the alloys, butif you really need it I will.
 
While we are building splitters, mind if I ask this one...anyone built their own generator? Especially using a belt-driven unit, like Northern sells?
 
While we are building splitters, mind if I ask this one...anyone built their own generator? Especially using a belt-driven unit, like Northern sells?

Yep, got a 10,000 watt unit hooked to a very small 1942 4 cyl. power plant (still runs 6 volt system.) Works pretty dang good.

Gink - I don't think its gonna hold:hmm3grin2orange:
 
Gink - I don't think its gonna hold:hmm3grin2orange:

Really why? Do you think it's going to bend, should I add gussets or just scrap it and see if I can find some bigger stuff, what should I use, I seen some 2" thick stuff there but I don't know if I can get it for scrap, and that would be hard to steal not sure I could even make it to the door, LOL Alright thats my fun for the day, besides I am spliting a lot of Elm:greenchainsaw:
 
Really why? Do you think it's going to bend, should I add gussets or just scrap it and see if I can find some bigger stuff, what should I use, I seen some 2" thick stuff there but I don't know if I can get it for scrap, and that would be hard to steal not sure I could even make it to the door, LOL Alright thats my fun for the day, besides I am spliting a lot of Elm:greenchainsaw:

Ha,ha,ha....heck your pusher plate weighs about as much as some of the little electric splitters. Very nice work. One very minor suggestion (from experience). On the leading edge of all surface areas of the pusher plate (the side "sliders" and where the plate rides on the beam), just break the edge or grind a small bevel on it. With the steel that you are using, if that slider was allowed to "tip" even slightly, it may cut into the beam. Bad stuff can happen if it were not caught immediately. Just make sure the edges are not "sharp", hell, your darned near working with tool steel.
 
Well, there is something I never really thought about, but could see happening for sure. I will do that for sure thanks for the heads up.
 
hmmm maybe you ought to put 2 rams on the pusher plate... besides it would really look bad a**!! :biggrinbounce2:
 
Really why? Do you think it's going to bend, should I add gussets or just scrap it and see if I can find some bigger stuff, what should I use, I seen some 2" thick stuff there but I don't know if I can get it for scrap, and that would be hard to steal not sure I could even make it to the door, LOL Alright thats my fun for the day, besides I am spliting a lot of Elm:greenchainsaw:
Personaly,I would add a couple of gussets just to help support the top of your push plate for that occasional odd shaped piece of wood,(not that I would ever cut a piece of firewood not perfectly square on both ends,yah right).Fantastic welding job and fit and finish looks super too!!!
 
Yeah it's been a few days now, I haven't really got all that much farther on it, I'm still not set on what I want to do with a 4-way and how I want to make it adj. I've see to many ways of doing it and I'm confused to which way looks the most simplictic/effective. I have a few more pics of the completed pusher plate and I've had to recut the beam and relocate the splice of the beam under the cylinder, so the push plate wouldn't bind when it tried going through the spliced area. I'm hoping today I will start on the wedge seeing how I'm done at work for the week. I will build the oil resivior and motor mounts today also. So if I don't have many distractions of people stopping out and getting involved with lengthy converstaions I should have some more things to post tonight.
 

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