Need advice on making flipline

[MasterBlaster]

Yeah Brian, your right about the weight thing. I don't notice it, I climb from the ground up with my 200 attached. I hate pulling it up, my biceps are too massive already.

Funny thing about the weight of the snaps and all that. I actually PREFER the weight of the steel snaps. I don't like the light ones at all, thats why I don't use biners. I use their weight to MY advantage.

The 'weight' thing has never been a problem since I began wearing suspenders about 10 years ago. Oh, and losing 25 lbs didn't hurt, either!



I can't imagine having a 19 ft lanyard. Are the trees that big?
My lanyard is 8 ft and thats all I could ever want.

 

[rahtreelimbs]

I might have to try Mike's center tie in for a lanyard. Sounds real interesting.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

One reason MB favors the Gibbs, I suspect, is it looks like he works mostly pines and sap can fook up the way a prussic slides.

Buy only moving one way, I'm referring to letting slack out when the lanyard is loaded, with one hand. Spiking up pine spars doesn't give you a chance to take advantage of the easy adjustability of a hip prussic.

The type of climbing that tests a lanyard, is without spikes, in multistemmed trees like a Silver Maple or a Live Oak, where you are tied into one stem and working other stems. This type of tree can be easily worked by using your lanyard as your primary tie in and your climbing line as your safety. Using this technique, you will quickly see that a front tie in is better and an 8' lanyard is useless. At the same time, you want to be able to use your lanyard in the conventional way, as a saftey or work positioning in other situations.
That's why you'll see guys with long lanyards all daisy chained up. You daisy chain the lanyard to leave about 8' of slack, then when you need more, you pull out what you want. When you feel you won't need the extra length for a bit, just re-daisy chain it.

You could make one lanyard for single spar conifers and have a second longer lanyard for the big climbs.

I wear out lanyards about three to one, over my climbing line. That shows how much it gets used.

 

[Joe]

Originally posted by Mike Maas
fook up

Buy only moving one way, I'm referring to letting slack out when the lanyard is loaded, with one hand. Spiking up pine spars doesn't give you a chance to take advantage of the easy adjustability of a hip prussik.

This is a good tip. Another advantage, I think Ken is mentioning this tip, is one can alternate between using either end of the lanyard. We can't do this with a gibbs.

Joe

 

[rahtreelimbs]

I was playing around in my basement last night with Mike Maas' center D lanyard tie in. Since I am using a Master saddle this gives me a tie-in to the right, to the left and in the center. Seemed to work pretty good. Now I just have to try up in a tree. With 10" of snow on the ground that won't be today. Thanx for the suggestion Mike!

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

If you have the prussic tied to a carabiner or quick link, it's very easy to switch from front to side, depending on what you're doing.

The Master is perfect for moving the lanyard to the front, lots of attachment points.

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

Thanx Joe, that is what i was trying to get across. Actually with our tenders and friction hitches, a lot of chord adjustment systems would be ruled out for 2 way, adjustable support? What would be best hitch for 2 way support from single point for adjsuter? 2/2, 3/2 distel? A friend wanted an option to Tom's DeDe, but told him that would lose 1 hand adjustability in both directions; that Tom's strategy provides.

i have adjuster on hip, and will snap safety to front D, rather than side; when lanyard will be weight bearing for any amount of time, cutting fatigue signifigantly. The spread between the attatchment points for me isn't much.....

Aluminum snaps have enough weight for my purposes, aluminum carabiners can be too light, so will take a few steel with me; in tree, will have a steel rescue pulley for throwing 1/2" lines farther.

With, the daisey chain in the standing end of the lanyard, then zig, zag of line through path of supports (dog leash snaps, D, Safety snap) enough slack is taken out of lanyard to only hang to half-calf allowing free stepping. the chain and 2 1/2 lengths of lanyard stash behind climber, totally out of the way. Rest is minimal at side. Dog leash snaps allow plenty of room inside eyes to allow rope to roatate freely, leash snaps also are swivels. Daisy chain+ light and about imperceptable, not used all the time, but glad to have it! Even for keeping me from breaking out 120' of climbing line for support at 20'! Girth hitch lifeline redirect carabiner /sling to a D, and have a 'mini' system; recrotch in once on the way down. Got the idea form JP's 30', but didn't think i could stash as much as him! Excelent for type of trees Mike refers to.