need chainsaw advice please!

[chetwynd]

I'm going to buy a Stihl chainsaw primarily for cutting up firewood, BUT, my grandpa has some acreage in the deep redwood forest near here and at some point I'll want to go cut into some big trees that have fallen.

Can someone point me in the direction (or explain to me) the idea of bar lengths and the maximum diameter of trees that can be cut up with a particular size bar? For example I see that most of the ones that I would choose from have 16"-20" guide bar lengths. How does that equate to total length of the bar and chain sticking out from the body of the chainsaw? I also want a chainsaw burly enough to cut those big redwoods if I ever choose to, but hell, maybe not, I doubt that'll ever happen.

So, maybe someone can educate me?

THANKS!

 

[mga]

Can someone point me in the direction

sounds like you better hire someone instead.

 

[2FatGuys]

Cutting firewood and cutting up big redwoods are two completely different tasks. I would suggest that you find someone that can teach you about proper chainsaw use and safety. Find someone that will help you develop skills by helping them.

 

[Frank Boyer]

Firewood and big redwoods are at least a two saw plan. Get the smaller saw and learn how to use it. Then look around for a used large saw and think about the redwoods. Where are you located? How large are the trees that you are looking at for firewood?

 

[chetwynd]

hi

Hi,

Thanks, that's kind of what I figured. The property is off of Skyline in Woodside. Can you explain the idea behind the bar length and what the max bar size one of those mid-range Stihls with take?

I'm not sure about the redwoods, really...but some might be decent sized.

 

[Billy_Bob]

I measured my 32 inch chainsaw bar and there is 31 inches of cutting length subtracting 1 inch for the "dogs" (spikes) which are attached to my saw to grip the wood. So I can cut up to a 62" or 5 ft. diameter tree. The largest I usually cut is 4 ft. diameter.

The thing with cutting with a long bar is that you need to keep the chain speed up and there will be a lot of shavings collected with a long cut. There needs to be room between the teeth for the shavings with a long cut.

So long bar chainsaws have special chains which have cutting teeth removed. This is called a "skip" chain. You have half the cutting teeth of a regular chain so the saw can maintain its fast speed. And there is twice the room between the cutting teeth for shavings to accumlate by the time the cutter gets to the end of that long cut.

For my 32" bar, I use a "full skip" chain.

Then when using a longer bar, you need more power. When you add more power, the weight of the saw goes up!

I have a Stilh MS460 which has a suggested maximum bar length of 32 inches and the weight of my saw is 14.6 lbs. Note that with a Stihl saw which is about twice the power and can have a suggested maximum bar length of 59 inches (you can go longer), the weight is 22.3 lbs!

When I bought my saw, I got the most power I could to drive a 32 inch bar with the least weight.

Stihl MS 460, 76.5 cc, 14.6 lbs., suggested up to 32" bar.
Stihl MS 880, 121.6 cc, 22.3 lbs., suggested up to 59" bar.

For using a chainsaw all day, 14 lbs is about my limit. I would not want to be using a heavier saw all day long. For a partial day, maybe, but not all day.

I found a picture of someone with a 7 ft. bar (link below). and it looks like he is using a Stihl. If I had a bar that long, I would want the most powerful saw (MS 880), but I would not want to use this saw for cutting smaller logs all day long due to the heavy weight.

So I suppose if I were you, I would get a smaller saw (less weight) for all that day long cutting work, then get a larger saw (very heavy) for just the redwood cutting.

Stihl chainsaw comparison chart...
http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/comparison.html

Picture of someone with a 84" (7 ft.) chainsaw...
http://www.stohans.com/stohanscom-images/hist9.jpg

 

[mga]

didn't mean to come across as being sarcastic, but from your description, it sounds like you're going to need several saws. unfortunately, there isn't a "one-saw-for-everything".

cutting trees sounds like alot of fun at first, but it's also back breaking work. you really have to enjoy the amount of work you put into it if you're doing it simply for the pleasure of cutting then watching it all go up in flames....lol and, it gets a little expensive too, considering the cost of saws, the gear, the trucks to haul it. if you're into it for the money, then you should get several different size saws to make your jobs a bit easier.

and dropping redwoods???? al gore would have a heart attack!!

 

[Frank Boyer]

Hi,

Thanks, that's kind of what I figured. The property is off of Skyline in Woodside. Can you explain the idea behind the bar length and what the max bar size one of those mid-range Stihls with take?

I'm not sure about the redwoods, really...but some might be decent sized.

I am off of the south end of Skyline. You need at least a 60 to 75 cc saw with a 20" bar for the oak/madrone that you will see in that area. A 361 Stihl is a good saw to start with. Later, look at bigger saws after you learn how to use the 361 size saw. Get some chaps and a helmet. Your dumbest mistakes happen when you are just starting to learn how to do it.

 

[AngelofDarkness]

If you want to cut up trees and not have trouble with your saw, don't buy a Stihl.

Husqvarna. Anything less is for failure.

 

[zopi]

If you want to cut up trees and not have trouble with your saw, don't buy a Stihl.

Husqvarna. Anything less is for failure.

:censored: :spam:

Stihl running. <G>


For what you want to do (at first) the 361 is a good bet...not more than a 20"
bar...learn in the small stuff and then worry about the big stuff later...I bought a 290 first then a 180C and just got a 660...all of which I am really happy with...but just like wrenches, you have to have the right tool for the job..ironically enough the 180 is the saw I reach for most often and is my favorite..i cut alot of small stuff, and that thing is a little termite on speed...

don't sweat the compromise, get a good saw to start with and learn how to use it (the Stihl vid is good, boring but good)...plus a bunch of vids on the video forum here..learn from Ekka and those guys..I did and they have saved me alot of trouble...

I won't badmouth another brand, husky and jonsered make damn good saws,
it's like the chevy/ford ,dodge thing everyone has their preference...I buy sthil because they are local (cept for the big german saws) and because they make a good product...same reason I ride harleys..but I will stick with orange and white as long as their quality is consistent.

do buy a good safety helmet with hearing/eye protection and a good pair of chaps...it's a hundred bucks vs maybe losing an eye or a leg...besides the chicks diggit...:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Erick]

I ass-u-me that you are new to wood cutting so I'll say check out this thread for your firewood needs,

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=57472

And forget about the redwoods for a while.

Not tiring to be a smart a$$ and mean nothing by this but in reality if you have to ask... your not ready for the redwoods yet.

Check out the chainsaw forum (farther down the page in the eqipment forum) for some good reading and learning.

Good luck and cut safe.

 

[Erick]

Oh and if you buy one of those Huskys your Stihl gonna need a good saw. :sword:

 

[woodfarmer]

i've got a stihl 361 w/ 20" bar i'll sell ya for $500, according to saw troll there the best saws on the planet

 

[Dok]

Honestly, for a first saw I would recommend a 50cc or smaller non-pro saw. You need to get used to handling a chainsaw, how a chainsaw reacts and build up experience about what to do and not do with a saw. Take a safety class and read a book, but there is nothing like actual experience.

Here is a good book to start:
The Good Woodcutters Guide found on Baileys site

I would suggest you find a good dealer, then buy from them. Doesn't matter the brand, they are all good.
Dok