Need float bowl gasket for Homelite 26LCS

[cbfarmall]

Hoping someone has or knows where to get a bowl gasket for this antique. Picked it up off Ebay for a decent price. Is complete w/ bar and chain. Got compression back--all 3 rings were stuck, and got a nice fat blue spark after cleaning the points. Carby needed some cleaning. So, of course, the bowl gasket fell apart while disassembling.

Carb is a Tilly MD56A.

Thanks, Chris B .

BTW, what is the deal with the f-ed up recoil? I have never seen a recoil you have to tear down before you can remove the shroud.

Chris B.

 

[cbfarmall]

Well, I see no one has a float bowl gasket. I'm still hoping for one but have managed to cut a gasket decently.

Anyway, now I'm hoping someone might have a carby for one of these saws. Mine has a screw that I assume is for the low speed, but the end doesn't actually meter any opening. The adjusting screw seems to act only as a plug. Also, it appears as if the end of the emulsion tube is bunged up.

Carb doesn't have to work, but would like the parts.

Chris B.

 

[Lewis Brander]

MD carburetor.

Hello cbfarmall. Don't know what's going on with this site. Have had to keep redoing and submitting replies before they are accepeted. I get a box that tells me I'm not logged in. I just deleted the old link from my favorites and added the new one, so will see if that makes a difference. Lewis.

 

[Lewis Brander]

MD Carburetor:

Hello cbfarmall. Well, guess that fixed the problem. At least that post went through without any problems.

On the MD carb, it was used on many different saws. I have an old PM Rocket that used that style carb and a Strunk, Speed Demon Special. On the Strunk I made a float bowl gasket for it. The needle valve I think you're talking about is the high speed mixture needle. The problem is it has to be removed before the carb is disassembled or it could end up being ruind, buggard or bent. This needle is in the float bowl and screws into a hole in the side of the imulsion tube. The needle should have a long slm taper to it. If the needle is buggard you could try and reshape the end of the needle and clean out the hole in the emulsion tube. I've done this to several carbs that the needles were buggard up on and had them work. Here a link to that carb on Mike's site. Scroll down and it will tell you how to adjust the float level and set up and adjust the needle valves. If I had an extra carb I'd send it to you. Here's the link:
http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...7a5285cda46690f288256e0f00770f39?OpenDocument
Good luck, hope you can save the old carb. Lewis.

 

[cbfarmall]

Thanks Lewis,

That pic was exactly what I needed. Funny thing is, I looked on Mike Acres before and don't remember a carb cutaway view.

Anyway, I already knew about the high speed needle. Ended up bending mine trying to remove the bowl. Took me a minute to understand what was happening. My real problem was with parts O and X. (Top carb. Carb on the bottom is a different style.) Had them backwards, and was wondering how the idle mix could ever be controlled. Now all I have to do is doublecheck the end of the emulsion tube and make sure it'll pass fuel. That, and new fuel line.

Chris B.

 

[Lewis Brander]

MD carb.

Hello Chris. I hope I was of some help. Hopefully the carb can be saved. Lewis.

 

[cbfarmall]

Lewis,

The only issue as far as the carby goes is the condition of the needle valve. I'll be reinspecting and adjusting the float so I revisit the needle. The rest of the carb is in good shape. Throttle shaft is tight, no wiggle. All passages clear. I replaced the seals at both ends of the carb with quad rings. Should be no reason this saw won't run.

Chris B.

 

[Lewis Brander]

MD carburetor:

Hello Chris. Looks like things are looking up. Hopefully the saw will run for you. How is the Gilmer belt drrive reduction system looking. Hopefully the belt will be OK. I personally haven't found an aftermarket source for those old belts. Talked to a fellow who has 7 old Homelites the oldest he says he bought new around 1950 and it still has the original chain. I'm hoping it's a 26LCS. I just redid a Mall 1MG with a ME float carb and she now runs like a champ. Had a bit of trouble with the magneto coil, but solved the problem for now. The magneto timing, from what I could tell was set at 15 degrees BTDC and reset it to 30 degrees. What a difference in the way she starts and runs. Hopefully your saw will be a runner. If you would post a couple pics. Take care. Lewis.

 

[cbfarmall]

Belt is still intact. In fact, it is very clean under that cover. Now my issue is with the fuel/vacuum lines. What did you do to replace to replace them and still allow for flexibility when twisting the handle?

Chris B.

 

[Lewis Brander]

Homelite 26LCS Fuel and vacume lines.

Hello Chris. Sorry to say this, but I haven't worked on one of those saws to know what to suggest about the fuel and vacume lines. I just checked to see if I had an IPL, but don't have one for that saw. So for now I have no clue on how the lines are arranged or put on that saw. Most older saws I've seen the gastank, carb and rear handle rotate as a unit. Maybe if you contact Homelitedelightman he might have a suggestion or two. I'd say if the old lines are made with the fittings on the ends, like a hydralic hose, I'd remove the fittings and just replace the lines and reuse the fittings. That's what I did on my Disston D0-101, otherwise just replace the lines as needed. Wish I could be of more help. You take care. Lewis.

 

[cbfarmall]

Some of your posts sounded as if you had one of these saws. No big deal. For now, the handle won't be twisting. Just need to get more flexible fuel line.

I ought to be able to get some pics tomorrow.

Chris B.

 

[Lewis Brander]

Fuel and vacume lines:

Hello Chris. I would think that the rear handle only turns approximately 90 degress at the most, so the lines shouldn't have to be that long, so I would think. There should only be a fuel line going to the float style carb, not sure what you are talking about when you mention vacume lines. Can't visuallize what they would be used for it it has any. Does the saw have say a line from the crankcase to the oil tank, that may be used to pressureize the oil tank. As I've said, haven't seen one of these saws to know just how they are set up. Hopefully the old fellow I talked to recently, may have one. Would be nice. Talk later. Lewis.

 

[cbfarmall]

Lewis,

The vacuum line I'm referring to runs from the downstream end of the carb to the crankcase. May have something to do with the rotary valve intake. Can't remember about the oiler.

Chris B.

 

[Lewis Brander]

26lsc

Hello Chris. You may be right. Sure would be nice to acutally see one of these saws up close. I have a Homelite generator with a rotory valve intake on it, NO vacume lines, but there is an adjustment for the rotoryvalve that acts as a govenor adjustment to contoll max rpm's. The rotoryvalve is springloaded and the adjuster controlls the amount of time the valve is open, from what I can gather, and that controlls the engine speed. Not sure how the rotoryvalve works on the 26LCS, as I've said haven't seen or worked on one as yet, but sounds like an interesting saw to work on and tinker with. There's an old fellow near here that has some old Homelites and hope to see them when time primits. Hopefully he may have one of those saws. If he does, I hope to get a good look at it or hope to come home with it. Take care. Lewis.

 

[ray benson]

Chris,
2 names come to mind on your saw. Bill W. and Mrs. Wilson of Wilson's saw shop. Let me know if you need their numbers.

 

[cbfarmall]

Ray, I'll let you know if I need the numbers.

Lewis,

Yep, this rotary is spring loaded, somehow. When I had the piston/barrel off I could see the assembly inside the crankcase. Without completely tearing it down, there's not much I can discover from my saw. Might be nice to find a junk one to explore. Also, the saw has one oil line for a manual oiler. There is a second line, but it leads to the top of the gas tank and is probably not for the oiler. Can't see where the other end goes.

Anyway, here are a few pics of my saw. Notice the little brush laying by the saw in the last pic. That is part of the saw and sits inside the air cleaner. It is used to swab out the inside of the round filter element.

Chris B.

 

[Lewis Brander]

Good Pics:

Hi Chris. Thanks for the pics and reply. I would think that the gas tank vents throught the filler cap. The other line that goes to the top of tha tank, I would think is used to pressureize the oil tank from the crankcase like on my old Strunk. Just gressing at this piont. Sure wish I had the IPL for that saw, it might be interesting to see at this piont. Take Care. Lewis Brander.

 

[cbfarmall]

Drive belt

Just got the NOS drive belt in the mail. Measures about 3/4" wide, .545" from cog to cog, and 42 cogs.

Lewis, I put a little gas down the spark plug hole and after fiddling with it a few minutes and realizing the switch was off, I got it to give a little pop. Haven't put gas in the tank yet.

Chris B.

 

[Lewis Brander]

PM Rocket belt:

Hello Chris. I just measured the PM Rocket belt I have. The measurements are: 3/4" wide, approximately 3/8" from cog to cog (measured from the edgy of one cog to the same place on the next cog) and there are 60 cogs. Length should be about 22.5",. So looks like thay are 2 completely different belts. Glad you got the spare belt for your saw. Let us know when you get her up and running. Good luck.

I got the all the parts coming, I needed for the Mac 4-30 to get her back together. I needed a top shroud for the cylinder, a muffler and fuel pump valve ass'y. I made the carb diphragm, rebuilt the primer, made a new impulse line and the fuel pump diaphragm is good but the valve ass'y was rock hard. So things are looking up for that saw.

The same fellow had most of the parts I needed for a basket case Homelite 17L. It needed a top cover for the cylinder and a govenor ass'y. They're on there way. I still need a carburetor shield (plate to the left of the carb, below gas tank), but will keep looking. I know one from a 5-20 will work. I cleaned and reassembled the saw, did some other minor repaire and rebuilt the carb. So once the parts are here, she should be a runner. Will post some pics under the Lewis Brander collection thread, once I get them running. Take care. Lewis Brander.