Need Help Estimating Bids

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Let me see if I can head the flamers and the insecure off:

I am 33 years old, married with 4 kids, and have been a carpenter for 18 years, the last eight as my own Boss (He's a jerk. Makes me work to long for to little. Fires me on Friday only to call me at the BCOD Monday morning to demand where I am at). In 2009, after the elections and the depression, my business virtually died, and so did every one else's (in construction) here in Illinoisistan, unless you provided Service or worked for the government. And then to make matters worse, the big boys fired all their guys and moved down into my work bracket, and with their 50 years of name recognition and advertising budget, they pushed me out.

I've been climbing trees since I could walk, and have been pruning trees, for friends and family and our former church, as a hobby for the last five years or more. The house we are in has an open wood burning fireplace and I discovered that I am going to burn at least 5 cord a year to supplement the furnace. So in March, I got some climbing gear to do two things: help me in my hobby and feed the fire. Then it dawned on me: the service industry still has some work. Why not turn my hobby into a revenue stream? (I don't know why it took me so long) So I have been gearing up and studying (the more I read the more I want to read). I am just a couple pieces of gear from being able to handle big take downs.

I am too old and have too many dependents to take a job as a laborer from an arborist in order to learn the trade, and even if I did, I very much doubt, in this current climate, that he would share with me what he was billing and charging customers. Add to that, I have not met or seen or even heard of any tree service in my area that does In-canopy rope and saddle; they are all Bucket Drivers (no insult intended).

With the following questions, please keep in mind that I am not asking for quotable specifics, just the general rule of thumb for average work; not special situations, or repeat contract work. (that will come later :D) And I also believe in the Two Year Rule: it generally takes two years of hands on experience before the novice begins to make his employer any money.

I think I have a handle on Take Downs (thanks to all the input, helpful and otherwise, on my post about the hickory). What I am not so sure of is how to effectively bid prune jobs.

What usually costs more? Preservation/Prune work? Or Take Downs?

I'm not looking to get rich quick, but I can't afford to be loosing my shirt every time I put my saddle on. I am seriously considering phasing out of construction (at least during the summer) and into full tree service: from planting and tending to take down and stump grinding, but this will only work if I can provide for my family.

To this extent, could you please look at the following pictures and give me your honest assessment of what it would cost to prune this Siberian Elm? She is 70 feet tall by 60 feet wide. I don't care if you are a Bucket Driver (that would have been great on this one) or a Cowboy.

I KNOW that it is impossible to give an exact bid on a job via email/internet, but give me your best professional instinct on what you see, imagining that everything is as straight forward as it seems.

View attachment 248221
View attachment 248222
View attachment 248225
That is an 8 foot ladder in the foreground of number three

That is a six foot ladder by the brush pile of 99.9% dead, for reference, so you get an idea of the work in the canopy
View attachment 248226
View attachment 248227

P.S. I have my insurance and I am seriously thinking of contacting someone local-ish about working as a groundie one day a week to get hands on experience with lowering devices and rigging tackle, but everyone I have seen uses hardware store rope, trunk wraps, and their bucket as a block, so we'll see how that goes. :)
 
I first suggest you learn which trees you can and cant trim in the summer the Siberian elm you worked over is at risk of catching DED if trimmed when not dormant :msp_unsure: the Siberians are less likely to get it then the Americans but the chance is still there!
 
I don't know your market, but you and a groundie for $800 is what I see. Just throwing that out as pic's can be decieving.
Jeff

Right. That was something I was keeping in mind: markets vary. That number would fit my labor. But I'm new and I know I'm slow; not hessitant, just green.
 
I first suggest you learn which trees you can and cant trim in the summer the Siberian elm you worked over is at risk of catching DED if trimmed when not dormant :msp_unsure: the Siberians are less likely to get it then the Americans but the chance is still there!

Thanks for the info. Will look into that.
 
I first suggest you learn which trees you can and cant trim in the summer the Siberian elm you worked over is at risk of catching DED if trimmed when not dormant :msp_unsure: the Siberians are less likely to get it then the Americans but the chance is still there!

Found this info:
http://www.soselms.org/guide.htm

All I did was remove dead, all cuts at or above collar
 
You'd be doing pretty good to get $800 for that. I'd probably be a little less, as low as $675.00 if we needed the work and closeby.
Duuuude get a truck, please.
 
It all depends on the objective--why is pruning being done?

Siberian elms are prone to breakage when ends get heavy, but all you did was deadwood the middle. With that damping effect gone, that tree may be a higher risk to fail than it was before you got there. Some end weight reduction seems to be in order.

$675 for that little bit of work? looks like ~ 1 hour for a climber with a polesaw
 
It all depends on the objective--why is pruning being done?

Siberian elms are prone to breakage when ends get heavy, but all you did was deadwood the middle. With that damping effect gone, that tree may be a higher risk to fail than it was before you got there. Some end weight reduction seems to be in order.

$675 for that little bit of work? looks like ~ 1 hour for a climber with a polesaw

No. I cleaned every last stick of dead from the tree, walked every branch that would hold my weight, unclipped and used lanyard above my TIP, used my pole saw on everything I could not safely reach with hand saw. As the 8 foot ladder indicates, I then went around the tree and finished the drip line with my 16 foot polesaw. I thought it would take me an afternoon. It took three.

The purpose was to remove the Weather Load, and give the little old lady peace of mind.
 
Maybe it's just me, but I don't get it.....

How is it that you're asking for "estimating" help, when there's already a pile of brush on the ground?

What was agreed on before there was a pile of brush on the ground?

What were the specs of the job?

And, not that it matters to what this job should be worth, but how long were you in the tree to make that brush pile?

I'm seeing an hour or less in the air for a bucket to deadwood, and an hour to two hours for a climber to deadwood. But since a bucket could easily have worked that tree, it's pretty hard to charge more than an hour of bucket time would cost, plus cleanup.

For my area, that'd be done for $250-300, and an expensive job @ $450 or more.
 
Maybe it's just me, but I don't get it.....

How is it that you're asking for "estimating" help, when there's already a pile of brush on the ground?

What was agreed on before there was a pile of brush on the ground?

What were the specs of the job?

And, not that it matters to what this job should be worth, but how long were you in the tree to make that brush pile?

I'm seeing an hour or less in the air for a bucket to deadwood, and an hour to two hours for a climber to deadwood. But since a bucket could easily have worked that tree, it's pretty hard to charge more than an hour of bucket time would cost, plus cleanup.

For my area, that'd be done for $250-300, and an expensive job @ $450 or more.

Yeah. These photo's are all Post-Op. I lost my shirt, but had great fun doing it. I just don't want to make it a habit, because then it will stop being fun.

Thank you for your input. I can't charge more than a bucket driver, because then, why not get the bucket driver. And I understand that everything changes by market. I am just trying to get info for future work. And I know that experiance is the best teacher, but I firmly believe that a wiser man learns from another's mistakes, or in this case, experience.

My thought is that as a rope and saddle treeman, with no machinery overhead, I should be able to charge less than the big boys with all their equipment, but still make a competitive wage. I'm not talking about whoring the market, but maximizing my profitability, especially as I am starting with nothing.
 
Yeah. These photo's are all Post-Op. I lost my shirt, but had great fun doing it. I just don't want to make it a habit, because then it will stop being fun.

Thank you for your input. I can't charge more than a bucket driver, because then, why not get the bucket driver. And I understand that everything changes by market. I am just trying to get info for future work. And I know that experiance is the best teacher, but I firmly believe that a wiser man learns from another's mistakes, or in this case, experience.

My thought is that as a rope and saddle treeman, with no machinery overhead, I should be able to charge less than the big boys with all their equipment, but still make a competitive wage. I'm not talking about whoring the market, but maximizing my profitability, especially as I am starting with nothing.


We've all had trees that we lost money or made little on, it happens, and teaches us. If it keeps happening, and a person doesn't learn, they just end up broke.

On trees that buckets can reach, a climber has got to bid based on what it will cost for a bucket to do the job, or he'll probably lose the job to a bucket. On jobs that buckets can't reach, the climber can bid based on how long it'll take him to do the job, cause without him, it won't get done. A good and fast climber can do ok, a slow inexperienced climber can't compete if equipment can reach. On every job, you're bidding against how much time and money the other guy will have in the job. Learn to do it faster and cheaper, (WHILE STILL SAFE AND PROFESSIONAL), and you can do it for less than the other guy and still make good money.

I'd agree that a climber with light equipment can charge less (and if executed well, still make good money) than a company with lots of big equipment and overhead. But not on every job, or even most jobs. Your work will take far more time than theirs, and they can knock out jobs so fast that they're gone to the next, and the next, and the one after that, while you (or I) are still plugging along with little equipment and lots of labor. It won't take too many years of sore muscles and slow finish times to want more equipment, and increased speed and capacity.
 
We've all had trees that we lost money or made little on, it happens, and teaches us. If it keeps happening, and a person doesn't learn, they just end up broke.

On trees that buckets can reach, a climber has got to bid based on what it will cost for a bucket to do the job, or he'll probably lose the job to a bucket. On jobs that buckets can't reach, the climber can bid based on how long it'll take him to do the job, cause without him, it won't get done. A good and fast climber can do ok, a slow inexperienced climber can't compete if equipment can reach. On every job, you're bidding against how much time and money the other guy will have in the job. Learn to do it faster and cheaper, (WHILE STILL SAFE AND PROFESSIONAL), and you can do it for less than the other guy and still make good money.

I'd agree that a climber with light equipment can charge less (and if executed well, still make good money) than a company with lots of big equipment and overhead. But not on every job, or even most jobs. Your work will take far more time than theirs, and they can knock out jobs so fast that they're gone to the next, and the next, and the one after that, while you (or I) are still plugging along with little equipment and lots of labor. It won't take too many years of sore muscles and slow finish times to want more equipment, and increased speed and capacity.

Thanks! Excellent insight. Great advice. Keep it coming.

Starting small, I'm not going to go into debt. If I can't pay cash for it, I don't need it. But my goal, is to be successful.
 
I thought it would take me an afternoon. It took three.

If I'm reading right, it took 3 afternoons for you to do that work?

I'd stay away from pruning work while you're getting started. As noted already, it's hard to compete against a bucket on pruning, and pruning work is technically difficult, slow, and pretty expensive to the customer for what they're getting. A good prune can take every bit as long as a removal, or even longer... and most customers just don't see the value. If it's a prized heritage tree they do, but then they want to hire someone with a good rep.

You'll do better starting out on simple removals, cocos palms (removals and cleanups), and trimming work that can be done from the ground. They're all pretty quick money, and easy to estimate and then make a profit on. Palm removals can be prety good money and they're easy climbing too.

This thread ought to be in 101.

Shaun
 
This thread ought to be in 101.

I agree; nothing wrong with that though.

"The purpose was to remove the Weather Load, and give the little old lady peace of mind."

Peace of mind is a reasonable goal, but without reduction to go with the cleaning, you may have increased loading.
 

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