I need to make a decision on whether to rebuild my Husqvarna 359 purchased in 2001 or replace it with an Echo 501P or Husky 550XT ($75 more than the echo). I do not have much experience working on chainsaws but I'm not afraid to take on a rebuild if I have a good set of instructions and a good chance that it will turn out. Any thoughts on what I should do?
Need help on saw decision
- Thread starter chuck51
- Start date
-
- Tags
- husqvarna 359
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Wha'ts wrong with it that it needs a rebuild?
Local shop says cyl pressure is 140. They believe needs new piston and likely new carb. They estimate $400-500 to repair if carb is needed. Currently, it runs but won’t ramp up or keep running.
I'd rebuild the 359 yourself.
Shops always round way up on repair cost so you will buy a new saw from them.
A new piston/rings and a carb kit is around a hundred bucks lol.
My buddies have 359's and 550's for cutting fire wood, the 550 is a screamer so it's fast limbing and cutting smallish stuff but in bigger stuff I like the 359 better.
Shops always round way up on repair cost so you will buy a new saw from them.
A new piston/rings and a carb kit is around a hundred bucks lol.
My buddies have 359's and 550's for cutting fire wood, the 550 is a screamer so it's fast limbing and cutting smallish stuff but in bigger stuff I like the 359 better.
Bailys has the cylinder and piston kit. I would find another dealer. For just over $125 you could get your saw back in action. BTW, I have had saws with less compression and they are still running fine.
Way too many people slap a carb on without justification. Dunno what's wrong? Put a new carb on it! It's lazy sloppy work. Diagnose, then replace.
I'd rebuild it. Look at the piston through the intake and exhaust ports for an idea of its condition. Supposedly OE Husky components are reasonably priced. Get a shop manual from the beg for manuals section here. Read the part about disassembling and assembling the top end. Buy a new piston, ring(s), circlips, wrist pin bearing and base gasket. You'll probably want a small ring compressor, the plastic ones sold for saws are ok. I always use a torque wrench on cylinder base bolts but some people don't. For Stihls you need a long T25, I don't know about Huskies.
Buy the 550xp now and cut wood. Take your time and fix the 359 yourself. Plenty of help on this forum.
I thought I’d replied and thanked everyone but don’t see it listed so will try again. Thanks to all for replying, I’m likely going to buy the 550xt then do the rebuild as a winter project. I don’t need two saws but can keep the one I like and sell the other. Do you think I should try porting the saw while I’m rebuilding or is that taking on too much.
I would not try porting until you gain much more knowledge. You can delete the base gasket, advance timing and muffler mod it to gain some power.
Yes you do need two saws. That is the minimum...you should be able to see that right now.
Only 75.00 difference between a Husky and a "comparable" (not) Echo?Ridiculous. Should be a couple of hundred. At least.
Only 75.00 difference between a Husky and a "comparable" (not) Echo?Ridiculous. Should be a couple of hundred. At least.
PS. The 359 is a very, very good saw. Rebuild it with OEM parts.
Don't worry, if he fixes that one and it runs good, he'll have more. That's what happened to me.
PSS. clean your 359 thoroughly BEFORE you take it apart. Engine rebuilding 101..
This forum will do that to you.
Op, if you buy a 550, make sure it is a mkII model.
You don't need to port that saw.
Chuck, you will probably find that all you need is a piston and rings...oh, and a wrist pin bearing and pin. And three circlips...you'll thank me later, haha. Wear
safety glasses..
And maybe a carb kit and fuel lines.
And cover the hole around the rod with a rag...
Anyway, good luck with the new saw and the old one.
Did I happen to mention that the minimum number of saws is two?
safety glasses..
And maybe a carb kit and fuel lines.
And cover the hole around the rod with a rag...
Anyway, good luck with the new saw and the old one.
Did I happen to mention that the minimum number of saws is two?
Colonel428
ArboristSite Operative
Well, there are quite a few people on this site who would disagree with that comment sir...lol
Jug is easy enough to remove.
Take carb/intake/jug off as a unit.
Replace the plastic intake clamp with a metal one (do a search)
Remove limiters while carb is out.
Do Tree Monkey’s suggestions for modding the carb (there’s a video).
Replace fuel lines, yes they’re a pain but trust me here.
Add an extra port and deflector to the muffler and gut it if it has the catalyst.
I just sold mine that I bought new back in the day, I’m all Stihl now but they’re great saws that run excellent once these issues are addressed.
Take carb/intake/jug off as a unit.
Replace the plastic intake clamp with a metal one (do a search)
Remove limiters while carb is out.
Do Tree Monkey’s suggestions for modding the carb (there’s a video).
Replace fuel lines, yes they’re a pain but trust me here.
Add an extra port and deflector to the muffler and gut it if it has the catalyst.
I just sold mine that I bought new back in the day, I’m all Stihl now but they’re great saws that run excellent once these issues are addressed.
Good timing. I’m probably going over tomorrow to pick one up. The dealer has been pushing the Echo but I think I’m going to stay with Husky.
