Need help with husqvarna 55 repair

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The scoring could have come from many different ways. An air leak such as bad seals, bad intake boot, bad impulse grommet, bad base gasket.
Or it could have come from as simple as bad gas, too lean on the carb adjustments, bad fuel line, and the most common is dried out diaphragms in the carb, making it run lean.

I can't remember for sure, having a brain fart at the moment.... that piston is either 45mm or 46mm (somebody will answer shortly) and is very difficult to find for the closed port. The closed port system on the Husky 55 is very sought after. Most were open port.

You can remove the aluminum transfer with muriatic acid and some fine sand paper.

Or if you want, you can send me the jug and I will clean it for you free of charge. I'll put it in the ultra sonic cleaner and bead blast it also.
There is no promise it will clean up perfectly, if there is a scratch above the exhaust port that is through the plating... there's nothing you can do.
I've done many jugs for many members here, and everybody has been happy. Having everything set up here, it only takes me minutes.

I did this 45mm Jonsered 590 jug today. It had some aluminum transfer and light scoring. The jug was completely black, the cooling fins were 50% packed with grime. It looked horrible and was unusable.
I put it in the US cleaner, acid cleaned it, lightly honed it, then bead blasted it. It came out very nice. Let me know if you want me to do yours for ya.

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I don't know Ed.. That price is pretty steep. I think I'll send you all of mine from now on and not fart with them anymore! Lol.

I've got to get a blast cabinet.
 
I don't know Ed.. That price is pretty steep. I think I'll send you all of mine from now on and not fart with them anymore! Lol.

I've got to get a blast cabinet.

I'd be happy to do a couple for ya... lol
I have a large Snap-on blast cabinet that I use the sand in. Years back I bought a small cabinet off ebay that I use for the beads.
I think the cabinet was right at $100+/- brand new and complete, just had to buy the beads. It's the perfect size for most saw stuff, but it has/had issues.
It came with a fluorescent light that went out after a few hours. I removed it and installed a standard light socket with a standard house style light switch.
The factory plexi-glass door didn't last, I made a new one out of plywood and cut regular window glass to fit. Now it works decent.
 
Yeah... I grew up in a body shop so I've done a fair share of blasting, but we never had a cabinet. I'm thinking of grabbing a harbor freight one sometime, but I know I'll be upgrading all of the accesorries pretty soon after. Nothing like a beed blaster on aluminum.....

I can do my own cylinders...lol. I just thought it was a pretty great offer for the OP!

:clap::clap::clap:
 
That cylinder looks like it should clean up fine. I would keep the closed port design if you can versus buying a new cylinder. Like Brad said you can modify the cylinder to work or if you have some time and a dremel you can "window" a piston from a 51 that is 45mm and make it work in your cylinder.

Here's some pictures from what I did when my closed port 55 took the trip.

Rest of the thread here: http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...-repaired-piston-cut-and-photos-added.249658/

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Has anybody noticed that once the muriatic acid gets old it doesn't work as well?
The bottle I have is about 4 years old. When I first bought it, it would bubble and turn green within seconds when applied to the aluminum.
Now... even after warming the jug, it takes several minutes to get any reaction. I'm gonna buy a new bottle maybe today, and compare it.
 
Has anybody noticed that once the muriatic acid gets old it doesn't work as well?
The bottle I have is about 4 years old. When I first bought it, it would bubble and turn green within seconds when applied to the aluminum.
Now... even after warming the jug, it takes several minutes to get any reaction. I'm gonna buy a new bottle maybe today, and compare it.

Yes, unless it finds a pock mark to seep into. Then it will eat its way to China and bubble every bit of plating within an inch of it. It will also rust ferrous materials that are near where you are using it.
 
Yes, unless it finds a pock mark to seep into. Then it will eat its way to China and bubble every bit of plating within an inch of it. It will also rust ferrous materials that are near where you are using it.
Yeah...I just killed a 028 jug that way. Whoops.
 
I just rebuilt a 51 I sold to a friend. Does your saw have the plastic bulkhead that the carb bolts to? I always replace them to ensure the carb is mounted solid. The plastic holes don't hold well if the carb as been taken off a few times. If it leaks you'll have a piston and cylinder that look like the pictures you posted in ths thread.
 

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