Need oppinion by forum members!!!!!

[CUTTER]

As a new member, I recognize this is a very informational forum!! I currently own a Jonsered 490. I was wandering if any one knows the Displacement (cc) of this saw? I was wandering this because I was wanting to replace this saw with one that has equal or greater Engine Power. The saw died on me after cutting
a bunch of HEDGE TREEs. I would say that the saw got to hot. I don't know of too many peaple who cut them. We use them as fence post because they won't rot!!! Hedge is so hard it shoots fire from the chain when cut. I know I probably should have used a bigger saw, but the saw was given to me. Does anyone have any suggestions for a replacement? I will use it mainly to cut brush and dead ( up to 28 inches ) trees, not hedge. I have thought about a stihl 290, but it feels like it would get heavy if brush cutting. Im not that big built. Hell, maybe another Jonsered. This new saw won't be used for day in day out use but for several hours at a time durring the summer months. Don't use firewood. THANKS, Gary

 

[Tony Snyder]

490 Jonsered

Your saw is 49cc, thats about 3.0 cubic inches.

Jonsered's modern equivalent would be the 2149 in a pro version (metal crankcase), and 2150 in a semi pro. About $350 and $275 respectively.The both have approximate Husqvarna equivalents.

 

[eyolf]

I assume by hedge, you really mean to say Bodock or Osage Orange...it gets those warty, round, sticky orange fruits (that you can't eat)?

yeah, that wood is hard, and it does cut hard, but any modern chainsaw with a sharp, well-cared-for chain will do. You will want to file often, and because it is such hard wood, resist the temptation to take your rakers down more than .025" or so.

Your Jonsered 490 was about a 50 cc, 3 cu in chainsaw, a very popular size, that will usually take care of about anything that an average homeowner/ firewood cutter will come across. Sometimes more power is nice in heavy timber, but you're not working against the clock trying to scrape every last buck out of it.

Call around to the folks in your community selling chain saws, tell them what you want to do and that if you buy a chain saw you expect a free lesson in using it, a free lesson in caring for it, a free lesson in keeping the chain sharp, and a reasonable assurance they will be there for you next year when you need something. The shop that's friendliest deserves your business, doesn't really matter what brand they sell, or if somebody down the street can beat 'em by $5 on price.

Best of luck to ya!

 

[WOLF_RIVER_MIKE]

Cutter, ain't no wood in my parts, live wood, (even osage orange) that will spark a chain like your talking about. Given the fact that your bar is square, chain is sharp, tensioned and spinning like it should be. There are many good 50 or better cc saws around. Haven't priced them but take a look at Sears 51cc saw, I believe Baileys carries the same saw w/16" bar and chain for about $300.

 

[treeclimber165]

"I have thought about a stihl 290, but it feels like it would get heavy if brush cutting."

I've never cared for the 029 (290 now). They don't seem to have the power that a saw that size should. I prefer the 026, but you probably don't want to spend $400 for a pro saw to use it once in a while. The 025 isn't bad for a non-commercial version. Handles a 16" bar very well and can run an 18" if you want to.
I've never run one, but have heard good things about the Shindaiwa 488. Solo also has a great smaller/midsize saw according to many here.
Other than that, I agree with Eyolf. Check out your local dealers and buy from the one you trust the most. Unfortunately, most saws at HD, Lowe's and Sears are the cheapest made 'homeowner' versions of the brands represented and not comperable to the better saws available at a reputable dealer.

 

[WOLF_RIVER_MIKE]

The Sears and Bailey's 51 cc saws, I believe, are made by Solo.

 

[treeclimber165]

Kewl, WRM. Good to know that. But is the Sears version the same saw repainted? Or is it 'Craftsmanized' to where you need Sears inferior parts to run or fix it?

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Cutter,

I'm running a Shindaiwa 488 excellent saw, Hit the search on this saw, you'll be happy with what you read. Also you can pick these up for around $350.00. Rich

 

[CUTTER]

Never knew those trees were called Osage Orange. Guess you are never to young to learn. Old timers just called them hedge trees. If you raise cattle, you have to watch out because a dam ol cow will sometimes choke trying to eat a hedge ball. Live in Missouri and the hedge balls get up to 6 inches in diameter or more!!!! Had an old fence that had the use of hedge post. My grandpa said his dad had cut them when his dad was a kid. Them post were just as yellow in the center as the day they were cut, I cut one in half. Sorry back to the forum: Why does the stihl 290 ( $299.95) COST ABOUT THE SAME AS the 025 ( $289) when there is a pretty good gap in horse power{56.5cc vs 45.4cc}? Also why is this saw, 290, cheaper than the 026($400.95-48.7cc)? More money less horse power? Does this make sense? I was told that the 025 and 026 are German made and the 290 is usa made. This was the answer to my question by a dealer. ANY INFO? The 290 Farm Boss is sounding like stihls cheap of the line saw.

 

[treeclimber165]

As a general rule of thumb, the Stihl odd numbered saws with orange handles are 'homeowner' saws. The even numbered saws with white handles are the 'pro' line designed for hundreds of hours of use. The 026 is built like a small tank, whereas the 029 is more like a Hyundai.
I have an old 025 I just resurrected out of the shed, runs good even with weak compression. But more plastic than I'm used to!
You are correct about the 029, not much better than a Homelite from Home Depot! But Stihl markets to many types of customers with many types of needs. The 029 is good for the guy who wants to be SEEN with a 'STIHL' but not actually use it for any length of time.

 

[sedanman]

This has been covered before but we'll go over it again. General rule with Stihl model numbers was odd number saw models (017,019,021,029 etc.) are "homeowner" saws even numbers (026,036,046,066 etc ) are "pro" saws the new model number system throws a wrinkle but you can still figure old number example MS290 is 029 MS260 is 026. I have and am very happy with an 026

 

[rbtree]

CMan/ Solo 651

TC/WRM

The CMans that I got on ebay are supposedly the 651 Pro, but I think not. Solo website photos make it look like the SP. Sears calls it 4.1 hp; that is a joke. Even after Dennis hopped it up for me, it wont cut with my 036 Pro's. I'm not impressed. Hoping it will break in. Also, i dont think much of that .325 chain. I should have located the skip version. The teeth are too close together and cant get a good enough bite. I will take the deprth gauges down more, and maybe square file it to see if that helps.

Dennis said that the saw is well built inside, good bearings and crank, but it is the open port design. perhaps the pro is closed port, like the 346 Husky, whcih modifies into a beast, much better than the 026 hops up.

I do think the Stock CMan cuts as well as an 026, and I like it better, better controls, and stiffer rubber mounts. Never liked that 026, still think it is one of the least good of the pro 10 lb saws.

Roger

 

[Tony Snyder]

How do you watch a cow to keep him from choking on hedge apples? I would think that would be an impossibly burdensome undertaking.

 

[CUTTER]

A COWS DIGESTIVE SYSTEM IS NOT LIKE A HUMANS. duh, you knew that. A cow has many stomachs. Alot of times u will see a cow standing and chewing but never eating, this is because they swallow there food and regergitate it to chew on it again. You dont babysit them, you just know. They dont really "choke" but slobber and cough. because it is lodged in the tube going to there gut. They can breath but because of this blockage, they bloat ( swell up ) and this kills them. How to take care of the problem? Knock the hedge ball down or bury the dam thing later, or they finnaly get them dow. A cow cant be rolled over eather--the cow will die within a day because this action twist there stomachs. And finnaly, ever heard of a cow magnate? you will find them in your local farm and home store. If a cow swallows a piece of bobwire or wire off of a hay bail, they can't digest this do to it being sharp on the ends. Push a magnate down em and the piece of wire will stick to the magnate and then the cow can digest them both. hope this helps.

 

[che]

I cut hedge. In fact, that's about all I cut. I'm totally spoiled and we have so much of it, I don't waste my time with the other woods unless they need to be cleared out of a field. As long as you have a stove or insert (they spark too much to be used safely in a standard fireplace)....hedge is one of the absolute top firewoods for heat. May as well be burning coal.

I've never seen 'sparks' unless I hit a piece of rock or embedded wire....VERY common in hedge as it was used extensively for property boundaries.....then 'patched up' with wire fence or barbed wire. The hedge tree will completely envelope this wire waiting for a nice new chain. Although I've switched to a Shindaiwa 488 (bought at the end of last season) I cut the last two years worth of firewood (we heat solely with wood here in a ranch style home in Central Kentucky) with a Jonsered 2036, much smaller than what you're using now. I think the secret is keeping your chain sharp (thanks John.) I've cut wood that's been down for a few years to half a century as well as green wood that's still seasoning out in the woods right now waiting for me to pick it up once it gets cool again. Most of what I cut is under 15" diam.

Hedge apples are a real problem with cattle. We have a cow/calf operation....during the drought a few years ago we brought half a dozen calves into the vet. So much for profits. Although some were near death's door, we didn't lose any. The trick is to know your cattle and be out in the field with them daily. When the apples are on the ground you take the time to 'hang out' watching. For us, it's been the calves not the cows to get obstructed. They will act 'off'. Cattle tend to follow a routine....if one calf is nursing, and you watch...you'll find they all think it's dinner time. They do the same with grazing and 'napping'. At set times of the day...if all the cattle have their heads down grazing and you see one just standing there looking stupid....that's the one you go park near....and wait. If it's blocked it will vomit up the saliva that builds up. If it's laying down (and the others grazing) get out, make it stand up....if it's blocked it will usually vomit as it gets up. The big problem is that they will dehydrate very quickly....it will only take a day (morning to evening) to go from a good looking calf to one that's in dire straits.

I'm starting to cull out the female hedge trees....easy to find through the winter because of all the dead fruit surrounding it. The males I'll leave standing...as much as I hate them (they WILL rip your flesh)...I'm beginning to appreciate their strength and history.

Che

 

[Fish]

I have a Llama that prefers hedgeapples,
but I am in a different part of Ky.

 

[Dagger]

That craftsman and the baileys is what solo calls a 651sp...for "speciaL"..its 299 at a Solo dealer also...but if you have been using a closed port 490, which was a fine saw ..you may not be happy with a 651 sp...get the 651 pro...which is a quad port design of the latest technology and probably the finest..and fastest stock 3 cube saw on the market today. Well built..long lasting...
I cut nuthing but hedge for firewood and I have been using a new solo 651 since last fall...I have several stihls and huskys..including one of my fav all time saws, a 262xp...but the solo is what i pick up anymore after the tree gets dropped...reminds me of the 262xp in everyway ..balance ..power ..might not be quite as fast...but close.
BTW,,I wore out a 490 and a 590 jonsered saw many years ago...good iron them 2 were...the 029 aint in the same league..its a consumer saw..you wont be happy after what youve had.

 

[Bystander]

Newbie Who's Been There

Cutter,

I've spent a good amount of time reading here, but didn't get inspired to register and post until now. I'm a homeowner with good use for a chain saw, but I had been sawless for the past few years after a cheap Homelite died. I got away with that until recently when a good size tree fell across our private road and a power line. When the Fire Department and Duke Power left the line was clear but I still had a tree to cut up and move into the woods.

I needed a saw fast, made the mistake of taking the advice of the store salesman, and went home with a Stihl MS290 - the very saw you mention. It had good power and cleared the tree quickly. A week later I spent an hour dropping and sectioning a few pines. I could barely pick up a coffee cup afterward. I don't use a saw every day, and tiptoe around the edge of carpal tunnel at work, but the 290 is simply a heavy saw that shakes a good bit.

I took the time to do more research, including a fair amount of time surfing the web and corresponding with Tom Dunlap (sometime poster here, I think). I ended up with a Husqvarna 350 - a 50cc saw like the old Jonsered you may be retiring. It has about 20% less weight and power than the Stihl 290, but shakes a whole lot less, has better features, and IMO is better built.

The 350 also costs $299 like the Stihl 290, and I was pleasantly surprised when the dealer traded me a new 350 for the 290 that had a couple weeks' use. No charge and I didn't even have to ask.

I find the 350 to be a much better saw for my purposes: clearing fallen trees, trail maintenance, and a small amount of firewood cutting. It cuts notably more slowly than the 290, but is much less tiring to use. I can, and have, worked for hours with the Husky and am still able to enjoy a nice cup of coffee afterward. I'm a newbie, but this seems to be a very good all-around saw. It is light enough for limbing but has enough torque to chew through full depth cuts in oak.

FWIW, the Jonsered 2149 might have been my preference except that we don't have any dealers. If I had been comfortable stepping up to the $350 price point other good choices might have been the Husqvarna 346XP or Shindaiwa 488.

Hope This Helped,

Dave

 

[fordclevo]

Dave,

I must be pretty impatient, because I cannot stand a slow cutting saw!! A while ago there was an 028 in the shed here, and I only used it once, I guess I was too spoiled by the 051. Now I have been using an 076, 064 and 090, I am a little bit dissappointed with the 051. I realise what your saying about vibration, but I prefer to work hard and fast for 2 hours than slow and steady for 4 hours.

Fordclevo

 

[mikey]

opinion

Welcome Bystander,If you like talking anything about trees,You'll love this site.Theres everything from clearing acreage with electric chainsaws to custom built racing saws and everything in between .